Another great story.
Beating a dead horse IVR QUESTION
- Thread starter kewen300
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jeff alder
Well-Known Member
long winded posted by a terrible typist. Darrin still hasn't paid for a beer at our local watering hole since he did this huge favor for us. Small town farm boys are the best!
After looking closer at the aftermarket circuit board images,, the hole at right end that doesn't appear to be drilled IS. That hole isn't related to the fuel gauge either. I do apologize for my previous comments here.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
S=sender, I=12V ignition, and V=voltage limiter. You also need to bend the points apart inside so the juice doesn't back up through that contact.
I know only these stamped markings in backboards,
I which is input.
A which is altered/adjusted.
S which is sender or signal.
So at the typical 2 post thermal guage, I being input comes from A, the altered current goes to the I. So visually straight across the gauge. No stud at A
Its a bit different at a 3 post gauge. The post marked I gets switched 12 volt input. A goes to the fuel gauge driver inside this gauge can, and also out to the I post of other thermal gauges (the altering/adjusting was done elsewhere)
S is sender/signal everywhere.
The same applied way back when the limiter was in the temperature gauge of Chryslers.
I which is input.
A which is altered/adjusted.
S which is sender or signal.
So at the typical 2 post thermal guage, I being input comes from A, the altered current goes to the I. So visually straight across the gauge. No stud at A
Its a bit different at a 3 post gauge. The post marked I gets switched 12 volt input. A goes to the fuel gauge driver inside this gauge can, and also out to the I post of other thermal gauges (the altering/adjusting was done elsewhere)
S is sender/signal everywhere.
The same applied way back when the limiter was in the temperature gauge of Chryslers.
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Too many grab the beam with the trusty needle nose plier and bend it. Crunchy fiber insulation can be lost which shorts the ni-chrome winding to the beam. So? You ask,,,
if that gauge can isn't isolated from chassis ground the 5 volts can backfeed through what is the equilivant of a 4th and fecked up gauge in the circuit.. Just isolate the can from ground just as any 2 post gauge is (lift those and look for yourself). Take the 12 volt supply wire out of the cars harness connector and route it to your outboard regulator where ever you choose to place it. You dont want or need 12 volts at or in a thermal gauge.
Finally, to those that advise "open the can and bend the thingy ( like Rick Erinburg), I advise them where they can go.
If someone is wondering can a oil or temp gauge be a fuel gauge in panels such as this 66 B'cuda,,,, Yes it can be done. Those others 2 gauges get their A voltage at their I post. So knowing fact, the copper traces from wiring to the fuel gauge location are wrong. One must nterrupt copper traces and move wires as required.
"So you're suggesting modifications that the next owner will surely scratch his head over?"
Yes I am.
"Is this worth a try with a used oil or temp gauge of the same age?"
Maybe not the oil gauge but the temp gauges have a comparatively easy existence. Some may have never been to hot/full more that once or twice in life to date.
"So you're suggesting modifications that the next owner will surely scratch his head over?"
Yes I am.
"Is this worth a try with a used oil or temp gauge of the same age?"
Maybe not the oil gauge but the temp gauges have a comparatively easy existence. Some may have never been to hot/full more that once or twice in life to date.
I have used this in a couple cars for an IVR replacement. Dirt cheap and works great. You can adjust the voltage to tune the gauges (you can adjust them only as a group, not individually)
acavdragoon
Well-Known Member
Rt-eng.com recommends bending the beam is this correct or not?
That is what they recommend. But @RedFish 's solution is simpler and elegant.
What does opening the can of the fuel gauge and bending the arm accomplish? If you're lucky and can reattach the gauge face cleanly, it permanently interrupts the circuit by preventing the arm from making contact.
The same result can be accomplished by insulting the can from the instrument panel chassis. Grounding is prevented and the circuit is permanently interrupted.
These pictures are from the 1967-71 gauges, but should be similar to your earlier car.
Rear of the fuel gauge with the part that grounds it circled in red.
Instrument panel chassis where fuel gauge attaches with paint removed to get a better ground.
Insulator to prevent ground I made from a piece of a plastic gallon jug. As RedFish says, a piece of tape will do.
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