Best (easiest) fitting headers 68 Cuda 318

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MrJLR

MrJLR

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I want to put some headers on my 68 Barracuda but wow....it sure looks tight in there...

Any suggestions on brand and model (part number?) that will fit the best and easiest?

Thanks!


:burnout:
 
TTI's no question. Best fit, best quality, looks great and room to work. You won't be disappointed. I have the complete system on mine.
 
I Googled TTI and it looks like the TTi 34025-C5 ($685!) is what I want.....gotta go count my change and get me a set!


Thanks guys!
 
The site will tell you. Click around.
(Geeeezzzzzz)
 
The mod is to the trans linkage. If I remember correctly you have to flip it upside-down. It's simple and the instructions explain it well.
 
BTW. I went with the nickel chrome finish to save a few bucks over the ceramic coated and I haven't been disappointed. They still look great. Big installation tip: after you're finished installing wash them down WELL with rubbing alcohol to get ALL oil off before first run. Otherwise they'll turn ugly colors from the heat.
 
Lammio said:
BTW. I went with the nickel chrome finish to save a few bucks over the ceramic coated and I haven't been disappointed. They still look great. Big installation tip: after you're finished installing wash them down WELL with rubbing alcohol to get ALL oil off before first run. Otherwise they'll turn ugly colors from the heat.
Click to expand...

That's a darn good tip!
 
It's not to bad of a job. We put those TTI headers in a 69 Dart with a floor shift auto. The floor shift was from an unknown A body so we weren't sure if that was part fitment issue or not. it was modified per instructions but still rubbed. So the support bracket was just bent up a bit but we did not cut it and reweld as we didn't think it would buy us enough room.
He also purchased the extension exhaust pipes so It ended up costing about 850.00 with shipping. He replaced old headers that were crushed to death under the steering linkage.
 
Plan on switching to a mini starter at the same time. Fit and finish is excellent too. I've got them on mine, and with P/S too.
 
I just put the TTI shorty's on my 74 Dart Sport with a 360 and they fit very well.
I also have their full 2 1/2" exhaust and it went in without too many problems.

The only thing that I would recommend is check that the driver side tubes don't come in contact with the cylinder head. I have edelbrock aluminum heads and the 2 center tubes hit the head at the bottom edge. I had to grind the head for clearance. I only noticed it when I had to take the headers out and saw that they flange wasn't contacting the gasket on the bottom of the ports. I don't know if it will be the same on iron heads or not.
 
RAMCTD2003 said:
I just put the TTI shorty's on my 74 Dart Sport with a 360 and they fit very well.
I also have their full 2 1/2" exhaust and it went in without too many problems.

The only thing that I would recommend is check that the driver side tubes don't come in contact with the cylinder head. I have edelbrock aluminum heads and the 2 center tubes hit the head at the bottom edge. I had to grind the head for clearance. I only noticed it when I had to take the headers out and saw that they flange wasn't contacting the gasket on the bottom of the ports. I don't know if it will be the same on iron heads or not.
Click to expand...

Good to know. I have stock 340 heads now with no issues but considering going to Edelbrock heads in the future.

I went with the TTI 3" complete system with crossover x-pipe. It's close on clearance especially over the rear axle but it fits. And it looks fantastic.
 
I went to the small starter also. Which raises the question: Is the starter in the way of installing the header or is the header in the way of installing the starter.

The chicken and the egg dilemma comes to mind as you're laying under the car with your hands and arms bent in ways they're not meant to bend.
 
Good tips.....mini starter for sure too!
Do I need to raise the engine up at all to slip them in?
 
MrJLR said:
Good tips.....mini starter for sure too!
Do I need to raise the engine up at all to slip them in?
Click to expand...

I had to raise the engine slightly one side at a time but more importantly raise the CAR as high as you can then raise it some more because you have to bring the headers in from under and at an upward angle. Once you get the car high enough they go right in.
 
Lammio said:
I had to raise the engine slightly one side at a time but more importantly raise the CAR as high as you can then raise it some more because you have to bring the headers in from under and at an upward angle. Once you get the car high enough they go right in.
Click to expand...

how about installing one of these sets into a barracuda notch with a 440, power steering, & discs all around?

literally no room to work. :wack:
 
What's all this TTi talk?

I thought this was settled long ago....

Doug's 453 FTW with a 20% autozone discount..
 
Asking for easy fitting headers on an a-body is like saying "military intelligence"...

There is just no such thing in this world....
 
PoisonDart74 said:
What's all this TTi talk?

I thought this was settled long ago....

Doug's 453 FTW with a 20% autozone discount..
Click to expand...

This. :sign3:

I'd take the Doug's 453's over TTI's any day. Not only on price, but fit and finish as well. They also give an extra 3/8" or so of ground clearance compared to the TTI long tube's.

Also, if you have a 4-speed you need to modify the Z-bar. That goes for both Doug's AND TTI's.
 
72bluNblu said:
This. :sign3:

I'd take the Doug's 453's over TTI's any day. Not only on price, but fit and finish as well. They also give an extra 3/8" or so of ground clearance compared to the TTI long tube's.

Also, if you have a 4-speed you need to modify the Z-bar. That goes for both Doug's AND TTI's.
Click to expand...

He's got an automatic as one of his posts said.
And, yes the Doug's tri-Y design are equally as nice in their own way but try to get them in without pulling the engine out-it's not happening. The big difference in the TTI's is that the tubes start their bend immediately at the flange yielding a slimmer design. Doug's headers are still made the same way they were making headers 60 years ago so they're big and bulky. I still say the ONLY headers for an A-body are TTI's.
 
Lammio said:
He's got an automatic as one of his posts said.
And, yes the Doug's tri-Y design are equally as nice in their own way but try to get them in without pulling the engine out-it's not happening. The big difference in the TTI's is that the tubes start their bend immediately at the flange yielding a slimmer design. Doug's headers are still made the same way they were making headers 60 years ago so they're big and bulky. I still say the ONLY headers for an A-body are TTI's.
Click to expand...

Doug's for A bodies are not tri-y's. They fit and install just like TTI's.
 
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