I've got a pulsing vibration most noticeable around 3500 rpm cruising. Doesn't really sound/feel like the rear end (all is new/rebuilt with 600 miles) I'm guessing maybe driveshaft which I had cut and balanced ain't right ? Definitely not the "howling" rearend noise - it's a droning (pulsing) vibration that I can't really pin point, kinda feel it throughout the trans tunnel/floorboard. Should I start with pulling the shaft and having them double check or is there somewhere else I may have an issue ?
Best guess on my issue ?
- Thread starter rebeldart
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wireweld
Well-Known Member
what wheels, size of rim, size of tire?
cudavert
DARTAHOLIC
I'd say driveline......have it checked out. But.....does it vibrate @ 3500?.......or is @ a certain SPEED? If you put your car in "N" and find a nice long downhill to get your car coasting up to 40 MPH (or whatever speed it vibrates at) that should REALLY pinpoint it to the driveline. If it's a "3500 RPM" thing, then it could be more in your engine balancing.
340 8BBL
Well-Known Member
u-joint would be my guess.
Have you tried putting the rear of the car on jackstands and running the rpm's up to 3500, just to be sure the vibration is still there ?
That would eliminate tires/wheels and front suspension.....:cheers:
That would eliminate tires/wheels and front suspension.....:cheers:
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
could be a bushing in the transmission
74Dusterkid
Well-Known Member
i would go with u-joint could be starting to go bad. my dad had the same problem in his truck. thought it was everything but that. and its a cheap fix compared to a trans,rear,or driveshaft.
Dusterdude72
IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE
its really just a guessing game.....something like that, I....aswell as any other experienced car guy would have to go about it at a hands on approach to pin point the problem.....my guess would be drive shaft being a smidgen out of balance...could be u-joints,your rear end could be set up wrong or have a wearing part in it,tranny could have problems......all sorts of stuff...I would say check your drive shaft balance....also....not many people would think of it but it has happened to me more then once and I will never over look it again lol....check your water pump and your fan,make sure you have no bent fan blades and that it spins nice and smooth and straight and make sure your water pump shaft/pully are spinning true.....had a 318 mopar engine and a 302 ford engine both had a slightly bent water pump shaft or bent fan blade and made the car feel like it was going to fall apart....no joke.... the slightest bit of being out of wack you can feel,so dont rule that out
hamesdart
Well-Known Member
I had a problem like this... but I found it at 55 mph plus...
IT was my tranny mount. Any slower it was fine then it was a weird vibration noise from the tunnel also.. got a new trans mount and fixed it.
alot of them look ok but when you take it out it falls a part.
worth taking down real quick to check
IT was my tranny mount. Any slower it was fine then it was a weird vibration noise from the tunnel also.. got a new trans mount and fixed it.
alot of them look ok but when you take it out it falls a part.
worth taking down real quick to check
I've got a '72 Dart that had the exact same issue. I'd get up to about 50 miles per hour and would get this droning vibration. I had everything checked or replaced. Drive shaft, rear end, exhaust. I thought it might be the tranny but that checked out. Finally I had the torque converter checked and sure enough, the previous owner had the wrong converter in it. It was out of a 360 which is balanced differently I guess, internal vs. external which ended up causing the droning. I thought balanced is balanced but apparently it isn't. The issue is gone. It runs smooth as silk down the road now. Check and make sure you have the right converter on your tranny.
I've got a '72 Dart that had the exact same problem. I tried everything, and I mean everything, rear end, exhaust, driveshaft, all of it. It ended up being the torque converter. I have a 340 and someone put a converter from a 360 on it which is balanced differently. New converter and the problem is gone.
I've got a '72 Dart that had the exact same problem. I tried everything, and I mean everything, rear end, exhaust, driveshaft, all of it. It ended up being the torque converter. I have a 340 and someone put a converter from a 360 on it which is balanced differently. New converter and the problem is gone.
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First post and you pick a 9 year old thread?!!
Jeff
Jeff
It's a problem I had. Didn't know there is some kind of limitation on replies. What do you care?
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
That was my first thought also. It happened to me and to a friend of mine in his Volare station wagon. Unless the U-Joints are so new you can comfortably rule them out, I would replace them. You did not mention when the drive shaft work was done, or if the U-Joints were replaced. No before everybody yells at me for just guessing and throwing parts at it, U-joints are not that expensive, and it certainly won't hurt to have new ones. Plus, they are pretty easy to swap out.
I don't
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