best headers for 69 dart?

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mopow3r

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im really curious about what are the best fitting headers for a 69 dart, i have 2, one 340 4 speed and one 340 auto, and they both have the hipo mani's, one used to have a set of hooker headers but when i would turn the wheel too far the linkage would hit them so i swapped out for the manifolds, but whenever i did i felt a noticeable difference in power, so are there some good quality headers for them that dont have any clearance issues? and do i need different headers between one being standard and one auto? thanks for all your input and happy thanksgiving!
-Mopow3r
 
I'd have your stock manifolds maximized then extrude honed.
 
I would like to hear some firsthand experience with Schumacher headers. They are smaller, but on a 380 hp small block for the street they look great on paper.
 
Dougs or tti.

Dougs cost less and fit great. Autozone with a 20% off coupon or from amazon.

Both will likely require some mods to the 4 speed z bar.
 
True. Extrude honing doesnt add much chamber volume, nor can it magically add collector length. Manifolds are what they are, good for a resto, or car show cruisers.
 
hooker 5204's for the 4-speed car and use solid engine mounts.Also,mine had the big block pitman arm,the grease zerk rubbed the tubes.took the zerk out and used a set screw.maybe that would help with yours.Bob
 
I would like to hear some firsthand experience with Schumacher headers. They are smaller, but on a 380 hp small block for the street they look great on paper.

They do look nice. But for ceramic coated, basically double the cost of Dougs. No thanks.
 
I know, us SBM guys dont have it easy. Not many choices. The Schumachers are made in batches of 10, but heck yeah, thats pricey.
 
thats an excelent way of getting a lighter wallet,but except for that it wont add much performance.

I think if you do some home work you'll see the difference
in good prepped manifolds and headers on a street motor is negligible unless of course you need every single iota of power.
All the extra troubles like burned wires, plug/starter access, rejetting,
blown gaskets, extra heat , not to mention buying a
mini starter and new pipes, yea headers can be a real bargain sometimes.

I'd bet if he had the distributor reworked and the carb jetted
properly, he'd find more power than he had to start with.
I'd say he'd be happier after buying some dyno time at a good tuning shop and a hell of a lot cheaper.

If memory serves, The Flying Green Brick used well prepped
340 manifolds at 450 hp.
 
TTI shorties are the only ones I have seen that can clear a Zbar and Power steering...
 
It's about 700+ to extrude hone a pair of exhaust manifolds IIRC.. No thank you.

I bet if they wanted the brick to run faster, they would have put headers on the 500 hp engine instead of the stockers that choked it to 450ish.

Every guy I know that runs FAST style would rather run headers than stock manifolds from an ET/MPH standpoint. Takes a bunch of extra work to get the cars to run and headers would be faster.

Here's a real world comparison tti to an extrude hone set of 68-70hp's
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I have a real world comparison between extrude honed stock manifolds and a set of TTI headers on my old 70 340 swinger.
The engine was the original 340 that was bored .030 over with a somewhat hot hyd cam from Hughes engines and an Edelbrock RPM intake and Holley 3310 carb, heads had Hughes stage 1 porting done to them. Had the original 727 trans with shift kit and 2800rpm stall converter and 355 gears. I had the stock manifolds connected to the TTI system from the headpipes back and the car ran a best of 13.46@101mph. I then installed a set of TTI stepped headers and with no other changes ran a 12.76@106 on its first run down the track. So is the extrude hone worth it, not in my opinion.

.7 and 5 mph.... yep worth every penny of the 700, not a fricken chance!

Pick your parts, pay your money
 
I think if you do some home work you'll see the difference
in good prepped manifolds and headers on a street motor is negligible unless of course you need every single iota of power.
All the extra troubles like burned wires, plug/starter access, rejetting,
blown gaskets, extra heat , not to mention buying a
mini starter and new pipes, yea headers can be a real bargain sometimes.

I'd bet if he had the distributor reworked and the carb jetted
properly, he'd find more power than he had to start with.
I'd say he'd be happier after buying some dyno time at a good tuning shop and a hell of a lot cheaper.

If memory serves, The Flying Green Brick used well prepped
340 manifolds at 450 hp.

Have seen plenty of posts made by people who actualy have experience with extruding manifolds and they tend to say that its realy not worth it.

More power thru the whole range is always worth it,it means that the engine is running more efficiently.
Blown gaskets at the head are a non isue if you use good gaskets and never overtourque you headerbolts (good gaskets=anything that is not them cheap papergaskets)

Use the correct plugwires and they wont burn. if you have an isue with this,you could probably make a simple heatshield,just like the stock HP manifolds use anyway.

Pluggs are a non isue aswell,they are not that hard to get to once you figure out how to do it and what combination of tools work. and realy if you have to change your pluggs often enough to make this a problem you have other problems.

Starterclearance? are you kidding me? once again if you have to change your starter often enough to make that a problem,something else is real wrong somewhere. and no you dont need some special starter i have personaly changed a stock fullsize starter on my duster in the middle of the winter and while i cant say that it wasnt that much fun it was still doable even in -25C on my back in the snow out on a street.

Ministarter? well if you real want one sure get one but its not always required (only instance i know that they are required are on Early A bodies with underchassies headers and those cars are crazy tight) and they are not that expensive anyway,you can find them in junkyards on alot of later trucks. they are lighter and more powerfull.

Most exhaust shops can make most of your stock exhaust fit with a set of headers with ease.

Most engines need a rejet and tune anyway and to be honest headers usualy lean out the mixture in the firstplace wich is just great since most cars run to fat anyway.

the simplest way to make a 500+Hp engine into a 450Hp engine is to add manifolds.

Reality is that the the best bang for the buck and simplest way to more power is a set of headers.

I will agree that headers create more underhood heat.
 
I was just hoping to give him some options that
he may not of thought of..........
It's all good, you win.
 
I was just hoping to give him some options that
he may not of thought of..........
It's all good, you win.

you do have some points but headers realy are this much better.when they suck they suck but not often enough to be that bad if you just get a good set in the firstplace. i think the Schumacker tri y headers or the new TTI shortys seem to be the best option if you are real worried about the starter clearance and ease of instalation but they will give up some torque to a longtube 4 into 1 header that is sized correctly.

The Hedman shortys could have been a great product but they dropped the ball bigtime in one simple area,the angle and location of the driverside collector.
 
Correct 1fast340! Hedman did drop the ball with the shorty. Did anybody in R+D check the prototype?

Better yet: Has a disgruntled Hedman purchaser ,ever notified Hedman of the flaw in design? Have had great luck with Hedman on other brands,sad to see such a silly mistake.
 
Coated Dougs, delivered to your door, can be had for right at $500 + tax from Autozone with a discount code.

Extrude Hone is a big bottle of snake oil. A complete $ per hp waste of money.
 
I believe I'm going tti's! Thanks everyone for your help! I'll post pics once installed
 
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