Best procedure to bolt trans to engine

[DusterDaddy]

First time for me bolting 904 transmission to 318
Bought the motor complete with mild rebuild, and got the transmission from a trusted member reported as running perfect on recent refresh with stock torque converter.

I don't know much about the cam other than it's .480 lift hemi grind. The bottom is stock,
The heads are 318 heads with 1.88/1.6 valves, casting # is 3769973 , they are ported nice and gasket matched to the intake. It is a performer with a 600 CFM Holley on it.

I have posted here a number of times asking about the torque converter and a got what seamed like 100 different opinions. The one fairly consistent thing I could gather was that a high stall 273-318 stock converter would be the best to use fro a mild build cruiser.

So since I just sent the car out to the body shop for final body work and paint, I want to assemble the motor and trans and have it ready to go in the car when I get it back.

I have the complete transmission and the complete motor with a box full of bolts, motor mounts and cross member, however I could use some guidance as to what to do, and what not to do.

Thank you

 

[pishta]

Just go to town, brother! Convertor gets installed when its about 1.5" behind the plane of the bell. If its not, you can damage the trans by bolting the trans up and pushing the front pump out. Not hard getting engine/trans in without a radiator or distributor installed. You WILL lose ANY fluid left in the trans when its hanging at a 45 angle off your picker. and it helps to have the car up on stands so the tailshaft doesnt hit the floor. If all the bolts are loose in a box, seperate by bolt size (not length) as most all assemblies use the same size bolts all around.

PS> Just noticed slip yoke installed: good call, no leaks!

 

[Daves69]

Make sure the converter is completely engaged in the pump. A small C-clamp attached to the bottom of the case will keep it from sliding forward when you are installing the trans.

 

[Bulldozer]

make sure you fit the flexplate on the converter and mark it before you bolt it to the crank. it can only bolt up one way.

 

[DusterDaddy]

Im clear with making sure the converter is seated correctly and I now know the bolt up procedure. Since my moter is a 318 it's internally balanced right? The donor 904 came out of an A-body and I'm certain it was not behind a 360.
My motor although never fired, was built for a Demon restoration in front of a 904. When I picked up the motor there was a flex plate in a plastic grocery taped to the
Back of the motor.
I'll go dig it out and post a pick later.
I just don't want to eff this up��

 

[transman]

First time for me bolting 904 transmission to 318
Bought the motor complete with mild rebuild, and got the transmission from a trusted member reported as running perfect on recent refresh with stock torque converter.

I don't know much about the cam other than it's .480 lift hemi grind. The bottom is stock,
The heads are 318 heads with 1.88/1.6 valves, casting # is 3769973 , they are ported nice and gasket matched to the intake. It is a performer with a 600 CFM Holley on it.

I have posted here a number of times asking about the torque converter and a got what seamed like 100 different opinions. The one fairly consistent thing I could gather was that a high stall 273-318 stock converter would be the best to use fro a mild build cruiser.

So since I just sent the car out to the body shop for final body work and paint, I want to assemble the motor and trans and have it ready to go in the car when I get it back.

I have the complete transmission and the complete motor with a box full of bolts, motor mounts and cross member, however I could use some guidance as to what to do, and what not to do.

Thank you

I don't see any weights on the converter mounting cover, and from the photo, it looks like it has a narrow ringear. Looks to me like it's a used stock converter for a 318/383/400 engine with a steel crank. Factory rated "medium stall".

 

[DusterDaddy]

Can anyone tell me where on the converter and flex plate I can locate some part numbers so I don't need to do this again

 

[krazykuda]

To install the converter, tilt the trans up and rest it on the tailshaft with the bellhousing facing upward. Then put the converter in and rotate it until you hear two clicks, then it is all the way seated (sometimes it helps to rotate opposite directions if you can't get it to click down properly). Don't let it come out after you get it fully seated.

For the flex plate and converter alignment. The small hole in the flex plate goes 180° opposite the drain plug for the converter. Mark a hole in the converter and flex plate for reference once it is installed.

 

[DusterDaddy]

I don't see any weights on the converter mounting cover, and from the photo, it looks like it has a narrow ringear. Looks to me like it's a used stock converter for a 318/383/400 engine with a steel crank. Factory rated "medium stall".

Is there a factory High Stall converter? Transtar has a whole line of "recon" converters and they list the original replacement for my car which sells for $78.00
When you get into the conversation about stall ratings my eyes roll into the back of my head and i lose consciousness:violent1::banghead::violent1:...

 

[BWDart]

My 360 has a 480 lift/280 dur cam and I can't use the stock converter, it drops about 700 rpm in gear and won't hardly idle, PCT said I need 2000-2500 stall for that cam.

 

[70aarcuda]

My 360 has a 480 lift/280 dur cam and I can't use the stock converter, it drops about 700 rpm in gear and won't hardly idle, PCT said I need 2000-2500 stall for that cam.

initial timing is not correct....lol