pauls340
Well-Known Member
Tips will help, thanks
Best way to clean this circuit board?
- Thread starter pauls340
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Strong soap and water, and those green scratch pads.
DO NOT use steel based wire brushes or steel wool. If you must use a brush, use brass
VERY fine sandpaper is OK if you scrub them clean after with soap water and skotchbrite
THen rinse very completely
You don't want to use steel because tiny particles of the brush or wool become imbedded in the copper, and RUST, then the copper corrodes.
I've never tried a thin film of electrical "antiox" but it just might help
Make sure your connector pins are tight and or resolderd
Make sure the grounds to the cluster are good, and add a pigtail to one ground point so you can bolt it to the column support
Check carefully the continuity between the spring connectors for the gauges voltage limiter, and if necessary, solder jumper wires from the VR contacts to the board
Replace the gauge stud nuts with "real" nuts and star washers. I would guess this would be a good place for a tiny drop of antiox
These are easy (simple?) to fix, but just tedious. You have to be relaxed and patient, think it through, and take your time.
DO NOT use steel based wire brushes or steel wool. If you must use a brush, use brass
VERY fine sandpaper is OK if you scrub them clean after with soap water and skotchbrite
THen rinse very completely
You don't want to use steel because tiny particles of the brush or wool become imbedded in the copper, and RUST, then the copper corrodes.
I've never tried a thin film of electrical "antiox" but it just might help
Make sure your connector pins are tight and or resolderd
Make sure the grounds to the cluster are good, and add a pigtail to one ground point so you can bolt it to the column support
Check carefully the continuity between the spring connectors for the gauges voltage limiter, and if necessary, solder jumper wires from the VR contacts to the board
Replace the gauge stud nuts with "real" nuts and star washers. I would guess this would be a good place for a tiny drop of antiox
These are easy (simple?) to fix, but just tedious. You have to be relaxed and patient, think it through, and take your time.
GaryS
Well-Known Member
When I was in the electronics manufacturing business, we used dishsoap and water.
A board that age probably has a solvent-soluable coating on it, so if you want to clean down to the base metal and board material, you can wash it with lacquer thinner. Then, to keep it from corroding, you would have to recoat it with lacquer or a modern board coating, making sure you don't coat the conducting surfaces. Some board coatings are water based.
We used typewriter erasers, fiberglass rods and/or nylon bristle brushes to remove minor corrosion from pins, but too much rubbing will remove plating and contribute to more corrosion.
Be extremely careful if you try to resolder the pins. Too much heat will lift the pads and loosen the pins in the board. Unless you are an expert and had the right tools, that kind of damage would be impossible to repair.
A board that age probably has a solvent-soluable coating on it, so if you want to clean down to the base metal and board material, you can wash it with lacquer thinner. Then, to keep it from corroding, you would have to recoat it with lacquer or a modern board coating, making sure you don't coat the conducting surfaces. Some board coatings are water based.
We used typewriter erasers, fiberglass rods and/or nylon bristle brushes to remove minor corrosion from pins, but too much rubbing will remove plating and contribute to more corrosion.
Be extremely careful if you try to resolder the pins. Too much heat will lift the pads and loosen the pins in the board. Unless you are an expert and had the right tools, that kind of damage would be impossible to repair.
pauls340
Well-Known Member
thanks for the replys
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Another comment about the harness connector pins. Mine on my 67 were "devastated." Several were loose and VERY corroded, and several broken. It was a mess. SO I simply soldered small pigtails on the board traces near the pins (scraped through the blue/ green coating, scraped the copper clean) and abandoned the original harness connector. We to RadShack and bought 2 pairs (4 halves) of mating "Molex" style connectors, and configured them so they can not be mis -mated. Mine no longer has most of the stock harness, anyhow.
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