Best way to remove 73 Dart instrument panel?

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318MoparGuy

318MoparGuy

MoparHokie
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Will be replacing my IVR with a solid state one from Redfish. While I'm at it, I will also be replacing the old ammeter to a voltage one converted also by Redfish. All the FABO members really like them and I really don't want to worry if and when a meltdown might occur behind the panel. I like being proactive, not reactive and also like "peace of mind". So with all that in mind, what do I need to do to remove the instrument panel the correct way? Also what's the correct way to remove/disconnect the ammeter gauge? While it's out and open, what other maintenance should be done to panel at this time? Thanks in advance to all for their advice and thoughts.
All the Best,
Greg
 
As always disconnect battery, after that you are clear to go. Will help to drop steer column a little. There is a screw in the plug for the dash lights/gauges.

The pins may come loose when you unplug, if you plan on keeping the original panel those can be easily soldered back on.

Ammeter is just 2 nuts to loosen and remove, wires.

I have only done maintence work and not R&R anything in my dash other than lights.

Once I got my hands in there, and Speedo removed, it was pretty simple really.

Will require skinny, and flexible arms.

I am sure thorough info will follow.
 
The infamous MAD article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

A tremendously informative thread on converting your ammeter to voltmeter. Pleas read all three pages as it covers several cluster types

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480

So far as the cluster, resolder pins as necessary, clean up contact surfaces for the light sockets, and loosen/ tighten the nuts on the fuel/ temp gauge, or better, replace with "real" nuts.

Check resistance of the IVR socket to the board traces. They were not making contact on mine, i had to solder jumpers across from the socket springy fingers to the board traces.

You can use resistors to test the gauges for accuracy after getting the IVR in place. Do a search here, lots of threads
 
Greg, I just did this last week on my 71 Duster...I'm no Dart expert, but here how it worked on a duster with a rally dash. Panel is enroute to Ben for his fixing...none of my guages were working...when I got the cluster out, the fuel guage needle was disconnected! Looks like it and the amp guage got hot. Here's a quick rundown of how mine went:

1. I disconnected both terminals of the battery...little over-kill, but related to burning up a tractor on the farm as a kid!

2. Take out the three bolts on the firewall.

3. Take out the 3 bolts with spacers above that hold the steering wheel up...take 2 out and loosen the third till you're in a good position to control the wheel and ENSURE it comes straight down. The last nut I took off was double nutted (is that a word?) At any rate, I had to take a second nut off before it was really loose. When the wheel was down, I covered it with a thick towel so the wheel and cluster wouldn't get damaged coming out.

4. Take out the screws in the dash...mine had 7 holes.

5. Take a small allen wrench and take out the keepers under the heat control panel knobs.

6. Take out the 2 small screws/bolts holding the heater control unit on from the back...one on the right, one on the left...look up under there and you'll see them.

7. Unhook the speedometer (push down on the clip and pull back).

8. Remove the wiper knob--pulls off (mine was hard, but eventually came)

9. Remove the headlight knob by reaching up next to the fuse box and pushing in on a button about the size of a pen clicker thingy...mine was on the pax side...once pushed in, the knob slides right out! (best to remove a screw that holds the fuse box in place and move it up and away from you...this will give you clearance to get your hand in there. Now that bad boy ought to fall right out...if it doesn't...something's wrong! Some guys had the speedo cable in the way, others needs to move the wiring harness out of the folding clips behind the dash, for me it was hours of "why won't this thing come out...re-reading posts, etc". Turned out to be the dash pad was ever so slightly holding it back. Once I put the kid's popsickle sticks along the top to provide a ramp, it fell right out...don't force it! Now it's suggested to tape the wiring going to the round cluster (Ralleye dash...not sure how other's are) in case the wire's come loose. Carefully jiggle and work the wiring cluster off the back...I used the popsickle sticks...seen others who used a plastic shrimp gutter thingy...you get the idea. Ammeter get's disconnected with two nuts and you're out! That's how it worked for me last week. Ben was AWESOME in providing info...I laid it on the kitchen table and took the 6 or seven screws out that hold the potmetal on...make sure you get the one screw/bolt down at the end and don't force anything. Mine came right apart with the screws out. 1 or 2 triangle Priority boxes with some packing material and sent it to him insured for $150 (rally dash). At least that's how it worked for me! I would think the principle would be the same for your Dart. I'm sure Ben will answer any question you have. Good Luck! Mark
 
First of all, THANKS to all who responded to my info request, I really appreciate your time doing that. Since I am a relative newcomer to FABO, I see that I might have used the wrong term to describe what I needed to have explained to me. When I said that I needed to know how to remove the "instrument panel", I thought that term (in my thinking) would mean to you guys...how to remove just the front plastic woodgrain "panel" face part of the dash so I could get to the area to remove the mechanical VR and install the DeMonIVR and while it was open that I could also replace the AMP gauge with a converted voltage gauge from Redfish. That being said...Mark, does all that stuff you listed still have to come off to do what I would like to do or is there an abbreviated way to install the two items in the dash. My gas gauge only reads 3/4 full when actually full and the temp gauge moves up slightly when warmed up so it appears to me that they are both working, but maybe just don't have the proper amps going through to get a true reading. Am I correct in my thinking as I am not an electrical guy in any way, shape or form? I am sorry if I didn't state my question clearly and led all in another direction or maybe I still need to go in that direction to do what I need to do....please let me know.
Thanks very much,
Greg
 
Best to PM Redfish and ask him. I THINK it would be best to work on your instrument cluster with it out if your car...but like I said before...I'm no expert. I think you'll find it goes pretty quick...other than the spilling of the muffin tin with all the screws/knobs,etc! Redfish puts them all in the ashtray...that's what experience will do for you! Good luck with your upgrade! Forgot to mention in the long diatribe earlier to remove the slotted ring nuts that hold the lights and wiper switches....if yours has them.
 
Mark340 said:
Best to PM Redfish and ask him. I THINK it would be best to work on your instrument cluster with it out if your car...but like I said before...I'm no expert. I think you'll find it goes pretty quick...other than the spilling of the muffin tin with all the screws/knobs,etc! Redfish puts them all in the ashtray...that's what experience will do for you! Good luck with your upgrade! Forgot to mention in the long diatribe earlier to remove the slotted ring nuts that hold the lights and wiper switches....if yours has them.
Click to expand...

Thanks to all for their time...Mark, how long do you estimate the removal would take, if all goes relatively smoothly (ballpark)... Thanks again, Greg
 
You can remove the plastic bezel from the instrument panel from the front.
The panel assembly comes out first then it is separated housing from bezel.
On a positive note... Your standard panel doesn't include the climate controller and radio like a rally bezel does. Standard panel is a lot easier.
If my memory serves, your standard bezel will also have a seatbelt warning lamp. It is a added bulb socket with its own wiring. Don't forget to poke it back in its hole during reinstall.
What other work is easier done with the panel removed... grease speedometer cable, reseal left wiper pivot.
 
I reading the earlier posts I noticed gauges work but inaccurate. A solid state IVR alone may not correct this.
 
RedFish said:
You can remove the plastic bezel from the instrument panel from the front.
The panel assembly comes out first then it is separated housing from bezel.
On a positive note... Your standard panel doesn't include the climate controller and radio like a rally bezel does. Standard panel is a lot easier.
If my memory serves, your standard bezel will also have a seatbelt warning lamp. It is a added bulb socket with its own wiring. Don't forget to poke it back in its hole during reinstall.
What other work is easier done with the panel removed... grease speedometer cable, reseal left wiper pivot.
Click to expand...

Thanks RedFish for your help and advice. Does the steering wheel still have to be dropped to remove panel assembly? and if it does, what are some do's and dont's concerning its' dropping and also panel removal? I was going to lube speedo cable with white lithium spray....is that okay to use? As for wiper pivots, I recently re-did both left and right and installed 4 new bushing also while it was out...thank you for the suggestion. While panel is out, is there an upgrade for the lighting in the speedometer area...it's pretty dark there at night? P.S.-I have the dash dimmer knob turned to max brightness, so I know it's something more than that. I appreciate your time and effort in your responses.
Thanks,
Greg
 
If you accessed the left wiper pivot without working through the inst'panel opening, I'm impressed. LOL
Anyway.. Yes you will need to lower the column. May as well chock the wheels since you'll need to move the shifter to neutral. You could set the park brake but it will only be in the way. Long extension(s) and a 1/2 inch socket gets the 3 bolts in the firewall flange. Deep well 7/16 socket for the 3 bolts holding the column up at the dash. One of those is about half way down on the right side. I'm not sure when or even if this ever changed so just keep in mind, this bolt goes into a caged nut captured in the support. Do not cross thread this bolt when going back together. To wreck that caged nut will wreck an entire day.
Of the 2 studs with nuts behind the plastic column cover/ access panel, one has 2 nuts. the second nut secures a ground jumper wire. Easily lower the column down and gently go straight back up. The steering wheel provides a oversized handle and that isn't a good thing while these bolts are removed. To push/pull left/right/ lengthwise can goof up the tiny upper bearing in the column, cause the horn contact to scrub, cause the signal cancel cam to break, who knows what else. We don't want to pull the wheel to fix more stuff so just be kind to the column.
 
RedFish said:
If you accessed the left wiper pivot without working through the inst'panel opening, I'm impressed. LOL
Anyway.. Yes you will need to lower the column. May as well chock the wheels since you'll need to move the shifter to neutral. You could set the park brake but it will only be in the way. Long extension(s) and a 1/2 inch socket gets the 3 bolts in the firewall flange. Deep well 7/16 socket for the 3 bolts holding the column up at the dash. One of those is about half way down on the right side. I'm not sure when or even if this ever changed so just keep in mind, this bolt goes into a caged nut captured in the support. Do not cross thread this bolt when going back together. To wreck that caged nut will wreck an entire day.
Of the 2 studs with nuts behind the plastic column cover/ access panel, one has 2 nuts. the second nut secures a ground jumper wire. Easily lower the column down and gently go straight back up. The steering wheel provides a oversized handle and that isn't a good thing while these bolts are removed. To push/pull left/right/ lengthwise can goof up the tiny upper bearing in the column, cause the horn contact to scrub, cause the signal cancel cam to break, who knows what else. We don't want to pull the wheel to fix more stuff so just be kind to the column.
Click to expand...

Thank you RedFish for your advice concerning steering column removal and its' up's and down's...very knowledgeable and very much appreciated.
All the Best,
Greg
 
Greg-it took me about 4 hours total and about 2 1/2 hours if actual work on my virgin voyage. I had fits trying to get it to come out once everything was disconnected....turns out the dash pad lip was holding it in...kid's Popsicle sticks fixed that! I think you could do it easily in a couple hours first time...just give yourself a morning or afternoon for first time learning! Now that I've done it once, if I really had, to I think I could take it out in an hour....good luck and happy learning!
 
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