Block tubing, got some questions.

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One right after peening, one finished. As usual I got my technique down after three or so, the rest should go by quickly enough.

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So do you run a hone down the lifter bore to make sure the tube isn't springing back after being swaged or is the material dead enough that it won't protrude? A couple of those look like they have a lip, but that could be the lighting or artifact in the pic.
 
gzig5 said:
So do you run a hone down the lifter bore to make sure the tube isn't springing back after being swaged or is the material dead enough that it won't protrude? A couple of those look like they have a lip, but that could be the lighting or artifact in the pic.
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I only use a hone to do the last little bit of finish work.

After I peen the tube, I use an 80 grit paper roll to get the tube below flush of the lifter bore. Then use the hone just to make it purdy.
 
gzig5 said:
So do you run a hone down the lifter bore to make sure the tube isn't springing back after being swaged or is the material dead enough that it won't protrude? A couple of those look like they have a lip, but that could be the lighting or artifact in the pic.
Click to expand...

They all have a pronounced lip after you peen the tube over, the second picture in my last post is what it looks like after it's all dressed off, I ended up doing exactly what YR posted below.

yellow rose said:
I only use a hone to do the last little bit of finish work.

After I peen the tube, I use an 80 grit paper roll to get the tube below flush of the lifter bore. Then use the hone just to make it purdy.
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I settled on after the first one, the hone gave a nice finish, but isn't designed to remove large amounts of material. Sandpaper drum on a Dremel and a hone polish. Using some dykem and a spare lifter to check rubbing.
 
Machine shop called today. Crank is balanced. Block is align bored and was in the CNC for deck/bore. First side hit my deck height, second side needed a bit more to clean. So I had them take another .009 off both sides to bring it to zero deck, and ordered new gaskets. Wasn't able to get the .036 I wanted (on backorder until august) got .040 instead. Gave up a tenth on compression, but worth it to get up and running.
 
If you took and additional .009 of the deck and order a .004" thicker head gasket.........you compression should be slightly higher...right?
Or did i mis read that.
 
Cudafever said:
If you took and additional .009 of the deck and order a .004" thicker head gasket.........you compression should be slightly higher...right?
Or did i mis read that.
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You read it right, I just wasn't too clear. I have .027 gaskets, and wanted the Pistons .009 in the hole. Zero deck I wanted to order .036, but OOS, summit says available in August. So I ordered the .040 they had in stock.
 
TurboGLH said:
You read it right, I just wasn't too clear. I have .027 gaskets, and wanted the Pistons .009 in the hole. Zero deck I wanted to order .036, but OOS, summit says available in August. So I ordered the .040 they had in stock.
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I keep trying to tell you guys don’t believe the date Summit lists on their website. They do this to protect themselves from jerks that call everyday asking if their parts are in yet. Call the vendor and say hey if I order these today from Summit how long will it take for me to get them. Summit makes their cut of the money without costing them one cent.
 
Shorty Medlock said:
Are you guys drilling an oil hole in those tubes after they are installed?
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Of you mean to feed the mains then yes, you have to. If you mean drill a hole in the tube to oil the lifter, I never do that. If you are running EDM lifters you can do that, but I don’t use the EDM lifters.
 
yellow rose said:
Of you mean to feed the mains then yes, you have to. If you mean drill a hole in the tube to oil the lifter, I never do that. If you are running EDM lifters you can do that, but I don’t use the EDM lifters.
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So ur saying that ur lifetrs totally depend on splash oil ??
 
yellow rose said:
Of you mean to feed the mains then yes, you have to. If you mean drill a hole in the tube to oil the lifter, I never do that. If you are running EDM lifters you can do that, but I don’t use the EDM lifters.
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Okay....so the tube is meant to supply oil to the front main bearing by cutting off the leaks at the lifters.

After the tube is installed you drill a passage in the tube at the front of the block directing the oil into the oil passage that feeds the main bearings, correct?

Just making sure we are on the same page.

Charles Sanborn also blocked the lifter valley above the camshaft to allow the splash coming from the crank to lube the cam and lifters. He drilled and tapped the block to accept aluminum block off plates that covered those oval holes in the block.

Has anybody used the aftermarket block off plates that I occasionally see offered ?
 
Krooser said:
Okay....so the tube is meant to supply oil to the front main bearing by cutting off the leaks at the lifters.

After the tube is installed you drill a passage in the tube at the front of the block directing the oil into the oil passage that feeds the main bearings, correct?

Just making sure we are on the same page.

Charles Sanborn also blocked the lifter valley above the camshaft to allow the splash coming from the crank to lube the cam and lifters. He drilled and tapped the block to accept aluminum block off plates that covered those oval holes in the block.

Has anybody used the aftermarket block off plates that I occasionally see offered ?
Click to expand...

Spot on. I reamed all the passages from the main galley to the main bearings to 9/32 first, then after I had the tube in and peened I went back and drilled through the tube with the same size drill. Spent a little time getting the burrs out at the end, I found the ream actually helped with that some, doing one final pass.

I got a copy of the post that Charles posted back in the day, it all seemed to make decent sense to me. Only thing I didn't do was a direct feed to the front of the main as I'm not running a remote filter to provide an easy spot to tap in to.
 
I'm going to run that direct oil line from a sandwich adaptor between the filter and block plate I'll be running an accusump with one line going to it from that adaptor and will T that line to feed the front main.
 
Krooser said:
Okay....so the tube is meant to supply oil to the front main bearing by cutting off the leaks at the lifters.

After the tube is installed you drill a passage in the tube at the front of the block directing the oil into the oil passage that feeds the main bearings, correct?

Just making sure we are on the same page.

Charles Sanborn also blocked the lifter valley above the camshaft to allow the splash coming from the crank to lube the cam and lifters. He drilled and tapped the block to accept aluminum block off plates that covered those oval holes in the block.

Has anybody used the aftermarket block off plates that I occasionally see offered ?
Click to expand...


As TGLH said you have to drill a hole in the tube up from 1-4 main bearings. Not just number one. And you need to block off the oil to the drivers side lifter bank. I just drill and tap the feed hole in the number 1 main bearing and use a set screw to block it. Some guys drive a plug or thread the DS oil gallery at the front of the block to cover the feed hole. Either way works.
 
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Got some of my supplies for my lifter valley oil feed. Going to T off of my supply line from my Accusump and run a bulkhead thru the rear valley wall to the front of the right side lifter gallery feed line.

Using the Derale sandwich adapter to feed the Accusump then the oil feed line. The Derail deal is cast and cost $28.00... the Canton is billet but $89.00. I'll take a chance on the Derale.

No matter how much I order I always need to order more... I got an extra straight fitting and I need at least one more 90 degree. This is -6 stuff btw.
 
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