Body Work Tutorial

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ESP47 said:
I have a question. I'm going to prep a car basically for the first time and then take it down to a body shop to get primed and painted.

After applying filler and sanding it down smooth. Can I leave the filler exposed as long as the car doesn't get wet or do I have to cover it with some sort of primer?
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It will be fine if you have it out of the weather. You only want to go as fine as 180 when sanding your body filler.
 
AdamR said:
Just started prepping a car for a friend. Its a 73 Duster, original paint from the west coast. The hood roof and trunk lid are surfaces rust so they will be stripped and treated. The side the paint is in good shape but its thing enough that 80grit is going right through it. The primers are a bit tougher. Should I just strip the entire car to bare metal or would it be better to leave as much of the factory primer as possible ?

The primer we have is a DTM high build 2K
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When ya said stripped and treated I take it you meant with phosphoric acid. Most DTM High Builds are known as hybrid epoxy. I used this type primer frequently years ago. No longer my preference. Be careful because these DTM primers don't adhere on top of acid. I have never had the bad experience but have seen it happen. They will peel. I prefer just regular non-acid base epoxy over acid and under urethane high build or polyester primer. Just my opinion and food for thought. :happy1:
 
well when i paint my 68 barracuda this is the step that im going to do
sand blast whole car
epoxy prime whole car to stop rust
cut/weld/grind rot
pull out dents
epoxy prime spots
sand sand 80
mud whole car
block car with 80
heavy coat of primer
guide coat
block sand 180
repeat until im happy
prime/guide coat
wetsand 320
guide coat
wetsand 400
spray basecoat
colorsand with 400
spray basecoat
spray heavy clear
wetsand 1000
clear it again
wet sand 1500
wetsand 2000
wetsand 3000
polish it up

im paint cars on the side to make money, i worked at 2 body shops for a while and everyone has their own techniques, this is how im going to paint my car, their is no wrong way or right way to paint. it just take timeand effort, the more time you put in the better the car is going to turn out.
 
SS Cuda I don't know why you would follow 320 with 400. Not needed and a waste of time and material.

Second Why do you choose to sand base coat? What tech sheet told you to do this?

Not just an opinion.
 
dodgecity, well i use 320 to cut the primer faster, and then 400 to get rid of the 320 marks. and i like to color sand the whole car to make sure its perfect. i usually mix up paint that i have lying around and get it sort of close. this is how i paint cars. i know a guy who uses a torch on bare metal to heat it up and remove any contaminates before primer. everyone has their own ways of painting
 
This is an informative thread, and people do still have questions. Bodywork is an important part for many of us that do our own cars. I can see where the person who pays to have all his work done, doesn't have a clue what this thread is about or implies. My opinion, and I am sure many others, say leave it open!!

Thanks
 
Glad your back 67Dart440GT Wouldn't you want to do all your repairs before stripping? Then Sand Block and painting?
Plan on wire brushing and using rust converter then painting with POR15 the inside of doors and back of front fenders, Floor inside and out. Should this all be done before I start Stripping.
 
Good thread.
You mentioned lacquer primer under the paint. Lacquer primer when not topcoated is quite porous and will take up moisture if left outside in the weather. It will rust under the primer where you cant see it and it will cause problems later.
 
quick question in one post i read you put fillers on under the epoxy i was under the impression you epoxied everything then your body fillers ion top of that
 
Just an FYI, it's almost a year since any activity on this thread.
 
i'm no real " bodyman" but seems the modern way is expoxy and put filler on that. I do know some what are considered good shops that do it the old way, and putting filler over bare metal. seems to me if the metal has NO rust, this might be acceptable, but any car 50 years old will have at least some minut piting???? me, I epoxy, then filler, and put seal with epoxy over filler, then my high build urethane primer, but then too, I use acrelic urethane as top coat, so don't necessarily go by me!!
I have directly mailed the starter of this thread with some questions and he was kind enough to answer my questions.
 
I got a 1970 Plymouth Duster ( gold duster ) . How many were painted Panther Pink in 1970 . I was told what I had found was very rare . Because there are other few 1970 Dusters panther pink with a 225 slant 6 and 3 on the floor. So far I found only one . But no Panther Pink Gold Duster. My brother who is a police man ran the fender tag and he said it is a Gold Duster . I just started restoring it. But I am looking for a radiator assembly support . I can fine a new lower one but no upper yet can you help me who may have a good use one . But I prefer new if possible . I am a master upholster and designer . I am restoring this one back to life to the bolts and screws . it has only 54,000 miles on it . I heard about this site from a friend hope you can help me to locate parts and etc on information . Thank You David Speed Leather Customs
 
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