Body Work Tutorial

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That is my concern also, if you look in the last photo, the feather edge on the top right you can see something that is under the primer. This looks to me like a bit of surface rust starting on the car... just like I mentioned in the past pages of the mustang. Scroll back and you will see it.

I have the spots circled... if thats the case then the car should be stripped.
 

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I see what yall are saying. I know the photos arent that great. That spot there isnt even into the red yet. The red appears to be the bottom layer in it. What you might be seeing is the red primer underneith coming though.
 
Yes you had me curious so I went and looked and took another photo. THe red spots are the primer underneith.
 

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Thanks for the better shot, although it is the primer underneath, I would ask why it is darker than the rest, sometimes this can be a small rust pit under, just take a little sand paper on your hand and sand one of those dots down to see what's under it...

It could also just be the sander creating small spots that are getting sanded further down than the rest too.
 
That 50 grit created some wicked swirl what ill have to work out. But yeah the red primer underneith you can see that poking though. Also it may be darker beings the grey is over the top appearing to be darker. Besides where I broke though to the metal what ever is under the top coat seems solid. But Ill try your idea and see. But about the grit size what should I use between the 50 grit I used and 180? 80 or 120?
 
I always use these grits

36
80
180

Most good primers will fill 180 EASY and if you are going to spray more filler primer I wouldn't be too worried about going any finer than a good once over with 180.
 
Also a side note, if you have any filler work to do I would grind those spots down to bare steel and just do the body work first, then sand the rest of the car and it's ready for primer. If the spots don't need much filler work you can also just do it on top of the sanded material, I personally never do but it's another option.
 
Yes the filler work needs to come first. Thats the easy part. I did pretty good seeming them in so not worried there. Going to knock that out this weekend and go back and keep sanding the rest of the body. So is it ok to keep using the 50 grit then step to the 80? I have more 50 grit and I have 180 disc I can get some 80 grit.
 
Yes your 50 will be fine just make sure you follow it good with 80 and then your 180 and all will be well.
 
Great post! You said earlier when you were using the stud gun & dent puller that you use a "first in, last out method", but the other member asked about working "from the outside to the point of impact." I'm confused, this would seem to contradict. Assuming the deepest part of the dent would be the last in, & probably closer to the center of the damage, wouldn't you be working from the middle out then? Could you explain this a little more?

Like I said, this is a great post. Thanks for your time.
 
Lonewolf3165 said:
Great post! You said earlier when you were using the stud gun & dent puller that you use a "first in, last out method", but the other member asked about working "from the outside to the point of impact." I'm confused, this would seem to contradict. Assuming the deepest part of the dent would be the last in, & probably closer to the center of the damage, wouldn't you be working from the middle out then? Could you explain this a little more?

Like I said, this is a great post. Thanks for your time.
Click to expand...

The point of impact would generally be the deepest part of the dent, along with being the first in, first meaning that it was first impacted. This can change by the type of dent you are trying to fix, say something scraped along the side of a vehicle leaving a long dent that got deeper as the woman continued to drag the car down the side of something.

Each dent is different so you have to look at direct, and indirect damage, direct is point of impact, indirect is the result of the blow, ripples stretching, anything along those lines. Once you get an idea of HOW the dent happened you just reverse the direction of impact to repair the area.

What you are confusing is that the deepest part of the dent is usually the first in as it is exactly where it was struck by an object.
 
67Dart440GT said:
The point of impact would generally be the deepest part of the dent, along with being the first in, first meaning that it was first impacted. This can change by the type of dent you are trying to fix, say something scraped along the side of a vehicle leaving a long dent that got deeper as the woman continued to drag the car down the side of something.

Each dent is different so you have to look at direct, and indirect damage, direct is point of impact, indirect is the result of the blow, ripples stretching, anything along those lines. Once you get an idea of HOW the dent happened you just reverse the direction of impact to repair the area.

What you are confusing is that the deepest part of the dent is usually the first in as it is exactly where it was struck by an object.
Click to expand...

So if I understand correctly now, you would start with the stud puller on the shallower parts first & gradually work to the deepest? Would the next step be to then reduce the high spots caused by the indirect damage?
 
For the most part yes, I will work my way from the outside in, a lot of times just getting the damage out will relax the secondary damage and high spots. Also if there is any way possible to get behind the damage and work it out with something like a pry bar or long rod I suggest it. This way you can leave the paint on the car and see exactly where you are working the panel.
 
Well not much of a tutorial here but I go a 67 Convertable Mustang in for resto and though I would share a few more photo's on how I do things.

Here is a tubular front end for the car that sets it up with coil over shocks, new sway bar moved forward, new motor plates, new spindles and disc brakes.
 

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As you can see another co worker is doing the back half of the car with new trailing links and some bolt in parts.

Here I put the car up on the Car O Liner and tightened it down to keep it solid in place.

I didn't get a photo of the cuts as I was busy and forgot to snap a shot, but I basically used a plum bob and dropped some marks on some masking paper taped to the frame machine. I also made some height measurements and some cross measurements of the engine bay. Not much is the same between the two front ends so it's hard to compare the two to each other.
 

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Here I lifted the tub front end up into the car and adjusted it into place... Next week I will get the rest of the new suspension parts bolted on. The front end also has some inner fenders that bolt on, they look a bit cheap as they are just flat so we are going to roll some lines into them.
 

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I'm working on the engine bay of our charger project i filled the holes for the blower motor and heat+ac lines and smoothed with filler the rest of the bay is going to be hand stripped to bare metal [lots of spray bomb paint ect.] should i use etch primer first or go with epoxy sealer? I'm not sure what to do and don't want to spend time and money uselessly and cause myself more work and time. I have done the door jambs and trunk jam down to bare metal and covered with cheap primer just to keep from rusting [don't want to do that to the bay too many nooks and crannys].
 
I would suggest just spraying it with some epoxy, then you can give it a couple coats of filler primer, sand and use epoxy again for a sealer, then paint.
 
Just started prepping a car for a friend. Its a 73 Duster, original paint from the west coast. The hood roof and trunk lid are surfaces rust so they will be stripped and treated. The side the paint is in good shape but its thing enough that 80grit is going right through it. The primers are a bit tougher. Should I just strip the entire car to bare metal or would it be better to leave as much of the factory primer as possible ?

The primer we have is a DTM high build 2K
 

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I'll take a guess at what the pro will say.
Nothing is better than the metal for your base substrate.
Nothing is better than epoxy primer over that.
:coffee2:
 
There are a few theories about whether to strip or not, here is my opinion.

If you don't strip the the panels you might miss a previous repair that needs attention, or you may miss some rust beginning to happen under the primer also.

On the other hand, by stripping the panel you do expose it to the elements and remove any factory coatings. This is where you have to be careful, but if you do it correctly, I like to believe that the primers of today will work better than those of before and give you a better result.

Also, it's going to depend to me on the cost of the job, the desired result... you know how that goes already... talk to the customer if it's going to require a bunch of extra work, or give them these ideas and ask how they would like it done.
 
Its really only a matter of maybe another 10-15 minutes with the DA. Its not a huge deal and I'll probably just strip the rest off of it.
 
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