bolt placement for timing cover/water pump

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mtandrews

beware the Ides of March
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ok, when I took apart this 318 a few months ago I actually took a piece of paper and mimicked the front of the timing cover to get the right length bolt back into its proper hole. Well, lo and behold, I've seemed to have lost/misplaced the paper (go figure!). Is it really that big of a deal or is it much to do about nothing. Don't some of these bolts go into the water jackets? I know to put RTV on those threads. I'm not as SB savvy as I am BB.
 
I don't know bolt length's off hand if that's what your asking but several of the bolts go into the water jacket. I use pipe sealer on them. RTV works but sure is a PITA to clean off if you have to take it back apart.
 
Yep alt.bolt is abit longer,I also use RTV on the bolts.Couple years ago I misplaced my waterpump bolts,had to hit up my bolt bucket.Chevy starter bolts worked for me LOL:booty:
 
I guess what I'm worried about is putting one too long in the wrong hole and making contact with something that I'm not supposed to!
 
Oh my! I didn't notice until you said something!!! Messing with a car is the only time I'd have that problem!
 
Oh my! I didn't notice until you said something!!! Messing with a car is the only time I'd have that problem!

And yet, you ask a bunch of guys to tell you how long a bolt really is......
 
MT there's nothing you can hurt unless you bottom a bolt out and twist it off. If you feel one bottom out before it's pulled up tight just back it out and try a shorter one. You can get a good idea of what should be used where by inserting one in each hole and seeing how much sticks out before you start threading it in. If the bolt is the proper length there should be approx. 1/2" of threads to screw in.
 
Bolt lengths depend on whether you have the cast iron or thicker aluminum water pump and what accessory brackets you have. Indeed, early timing covers had an extra bolt on the driver's side, so put a sealed setscrew in those holes if you use a later timing cover.

Since I switched to the alum wp, and my bolts were all rusty, I got all new bolts. I used stainless for the shorter ones and cadmium plated (yellow) for the longer ones where Ace didn't have stainless. The longest ones were maybe 4.5" L, but don't quote me. Some bolts go into the water jacket, some into the crankcase (oil) and I recall some are blind. I used gasket sealer on all bolt threads. Ideally, you want something that stays flexible since you will loosen some later to adjust the alternator and pwr steering pumps.

Re bolt length, best to measure the depth with a wire and write down to you insure you won't bottom out. Also, run a tap thru all the holes to clean the threads. If you missed that chance, allow 1/4" for each bolt to thread in.
 
I guess what I'm worried about is putting one too long in the wrong hole and making contact with something that I'm not supposed to!


That's too funny. Anyway, use a screwdriver or a piece of wire and check the holes you should be able to match em up pretty good. As mentioned if it bottoms out and is not all the way in try another bolt. I put sealant on all of mine, blind or not.
 
i dont usually put anything on the bolts as a sealer ihave never had one leak. i dont want that junk floating around in my water passages or in my oil
 
If you don't go crazy with sealer there shouldn't be any to come loose and float around. Another plus to using sealer is it can help prevent the bolts rusting to the timing cover/block. I remember a guy here recently that snapped a water pump bolt off right at the head because it wasn't sealed and water seeped and froze it to the timing cover. He had a heck of a time prying it apart and the timing cover was roached by the time he got it apart.
 
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