Bolt replacement?

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4dr4ever

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So I was wondering if anyone would have an opinion on using factory replacement bolts for the connecting rods, etc. I ordered a set of bolts from ARP but for what their worth looks like I can replace the head bolts main bolts and connecting rod bolts at the same cost from the dealer.

I mean for all intensive purposes the replacement bolts should be the same as what the factory puts in. Any opinions? my engine is just gonna be a factory stock rebuild.

Unfortunately the supply of ARP rod bolts looks like I won't have them for a while. sucks but just reality. Everything just seems to be slowed down.
 
I used factory stuff for mine and am happy enough. The only bolts that have to be replaced are the rod bolts, the main and head bolts can technically be reused, though I wouldn't more than once or maaaaybe twice (I've techincally reused one set of head bolts twice, once for the rebuild and one more time when my head crapped out and I got a replacement). If I go with new heads down the road I'll replace them for sure. The stock stuff seems to be good for an awful lot of power and miles from what I've seen and heard.
 
I used factory bolts on one main and one rod in my engine, I think it cost me about 3 bucks for the 4 of them.
 
ARP's are way stronger, but for a mild engine for street use, new stock is fine.
 
I think I ended up paying around $1.50-1.80 a rod bolt, but I think my local dealer is on the high side. I ended up having to get a main stud as well (the one the pickup tube attaches to) and it ran me maybe $3.00 plus another $0.80 or so for the nut.
 
They quoted me about 4 bucks a piece but I should get a discount to. But when arp bolts are almost 10 bucks each I'm fine with the cost. Stronger bolts yeah but this is just a factory rebuild. I have 16 of only 21 in Canada on the way.

You guys mention the main stud that mounts the pickup what did you guys use to torque it down? My deep sockets arn't long enough
 
It's probably not the right way, but if I remember right I just used a box end wrench and put the torque wrench on the open end and used it as a bit of a linkage. The better way would be a crow foot on the end, but it's the same sort of idea. Not sure how it messes with the torque values though.
 
I didn't know rod bolts need to be replaced. I reused everything the ~3 times I re-ringed an engine (383, 2.4L), with no problems. For the 2.4L, Chrysler says to get new head bolts since a "torque to yield" design. I re-used them and figure maybe I yielded them just a little more. No head gasket leak in ~90K miles so far, whereas the original gasket started leaking oil at 39K. I have ME degrees so can justify my behaviour, but "don't try this at home".
 
You bet they do. They stretch and return just like a rubber band when the engine is running. They do indeed have a life cycle.
 
I thought that all the hemi bolts are "torque to yield" and should be replaced. I would rather replace them during a rebuild now, than have to pull the motor, get new gaskets, and do it all again with new bolts if something fails. new factory bolts would be fine for your average rebuild.

JOE
 
From what I found at least the factory manual only mentions the rod bolts being specifically torque to yield. All the bolts use an angular torque spec (torque to really low value to snug up then X number of degrees for final torque), but that doesn't necessarily make them torque to yield, it's just a more consistent way of determining bolt stretch since it negates some of the issues with friction affecting torque. I asked Stu at Inertia about it and he told me that the mains and head bolts are okay to reuse, but agreed that you should replace them after a few torques. If they aren't that expensive it's good insurance, but if you're on a budget I don't think it would hurt anything on a stock rebuild.
 
I agree with what stu says. And respect his opinion, but hard to access bolts like rod, main and head bolt I like to replace them, more as a piece of mind thing. Knowing I won't have to worry about it later. But that's just me. Stu was adamant about replacing the rid bolts. So I would at a minimum replace them.
 
I just finished my build where I needed to replace the factor rod bolts.. DO NOT USE ARP bolts unless you plan on re-balancing the assembly... you can use the 6.4 rods bolts as they are the same weight but stronger.
 
Never thought about rod bolts throwing off the balance. That actually makes a fair bit of sense.
 
joeboy said:
I thought that all the hemi bolts are "torque to yield" and should be replaced. I would rather replace them during a rebuild now, than have to pull the motor, get new gaskets, and do it all again with new bolts if something fails. new factory bolts would be fine for your average rebuild.

JOE
Click to expand...

Most if not all are torque to yield, certainly all the rotating assembly and head bolts are. I used to know the torque specs off the top of my head.
 
While on the subject of bolts , i may need to remove the crank from a 3G Hemi for a tone ring relacement , so will need to replace rod bolts .
I've replaced rod bolts on older engines and this requiers the big end to be closed and honed to correct any mis-alignment .
Does anyone know if this is required with a 3GHemi rod .
 
About the only thing I know about the 3G Hemi rods is that they are a fractured cap design and made from powdered metal. That being said, DO NOT MARK THEM WITH A PUNCH when you take them out, pretty sure they WILL break when you put the power to them later if you do. You can't grind the caps down to close up any eccentricity and then hone them back circular because you'll lose the mating surface on the caps. You have to be real careful when you take them apart, so put them back together right away so you don't bang the rough end of them. I got a replacement piston and rod with my engine and was about to use it, but when I tried to snug the bolts down the cap wasn't seating right. Would have been bad news if I tried to run it that way I think.
 
About 10 mins after posting I remembered :eek:ops:the bolts go thtrough the cap unlike old type rods where the bolt is a press fit in the rod , and as you say map63vette the cracked design dosent allow for any machining.
 
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