Bore rust

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twayne24365

twayne24365

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Friend of mine is working on a 429 Ford, the block was re machined and in his garage, I told him to keep a good coat of oil on everything to prevent rust, but I guess with the changing temps and his in heated garage it got surface rust in the bores,

Wd-40 and a rag won’t take it off, so maybe a quick stroke or two with a flex hone? What do you guys think?

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a couple years back I rebuilt a VW race engine that had gotten water in a cylinder. I honed it and it was fine. I really depends how pitted the metal is. IF the hone doesn't clean it up you didn't hurt anything by trying.

Also, I can't say enough positive about total seal (gapless) rings.
 
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Looks like the deck surfaces and lifter bores are starting to rust too.

If your friend doesn't have pistons/balanced rotating assembly, now's the time to get a 460 crank and pistons to get a lighter piston and 31 more CID.
 
First off, WD40 is not a lubricant. Never has been. Never will be. It is a moisture remover and repellent. That's why it was invented. Lots of people use it wrongly. WD40 will completely evaporate fairly quickly. So you want to use something such as PBlaster, Sea Foam Deep Creep, or even Fluid Film.

Here is Fluid Film.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...1968/plymouth/valiant?pos=0&manufacturer=true

This is exactly what Fluid Film is made for. That said, that's some very mild rust. I would soak that down with one of the above mentioned products and hit it with a ball hone and go.
 
You can very likely dingleball hone that back to a good surface. I second what has been said about Fluid Film.
 
If he is now ready to build it take red scotchbright soaked in transmission fluid and clean up the heads deck surface. Then wipe down the bores with transmission fluid and hit it with a dingle berry hone. If he doesn’t know how to use a hone properly get someone that does. Wipe the bore clean to see if the rust is gone and your hone job looks nice. I wash down my blocks with Dawn dish soap and water 3-4 times, dry it, and wipe everything down with transmission fluid. Then it’s go time.
 
get yourself some gloves, some evaporust, or even muriatic acid and wipe the rusty areas, until as much rust is going to come off, comes off, then clean it with wd40, or MMO, or what have you, then coat it with something that will keep it from rusting like heavy engine oil, gear oil, chainsaw oil, even grease if it's for longer storage. Don't store it on the concrete floor. I'd keep it no closer than 6in to any floor.
The ball hones can be good for freshening the surface up, but I think you would be better served getting as much rust out as you can, before you ball hone the cylinders, and the lifter bores.
For the flat surfaces, if you are careful, you can use a single edged razor blade and some wd40 or MMO.
 
The WD in WD40 stands for "water displacement", & as stated above, it is not a lubricant.
 
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As said before, you need a rust remover not another oil. Past time for that. You can make something to bolt to the deck surface, add plastic sheet, rubber etc... to fluid proof the surfaces. Turn block over, upside down ( assuming it is in an engine stand) and fill the cylinders, one side at a time with a product like Evaporust and let it soak for a few days. It will not remove any metal or affect the honing. Be creative.
 
MoparLeo said:
As said before, you need a rust remover not another oil. Past time for that. You can make something to bolt to the deck surface, add plastic sheet, rubber etc... to fluid proof the surfaces. Turn block over, upside down ( assuming it is in an engine stand) and fill the cylinders, one side at a time with a product like Evaporust and let it soak for a few days. It will not remove any metal or affect the honing. Be creative.
Click to expand...
I don't know which comment you were referring to, but I was using wd40 not as a lubricant as much as I intended it to be used as a good, cheap cleaner. But do be aware, wd40 is pretty flammable. So dispose of the rags promptly and carefully.
proper disposal of oily rags, I learned the hard way, hahaha.
 
Wasn't referring to your post at all. But now that I went back and took a closer look, depending on how this engine is being built, I would probably sacrifice the cam bearings that were installed and send it back to the machine shop to finish the job. The decks weren't touched, all the lifter bores also look rusty. There is some serious deburing that needs to be done in the valley area between the lifter bores etc... Might as well have the whole block recleaned and if the bores haven't been honed to the individual pistons yet, (doubt it)have it done then. And oil is a lubricant, grease is a preservative. Mix oil and water and the oil floats above the water, metal side down. Try to mix grease and water. Water just sits on top of the grease. Should also bag it if not going to assemble very soon if for nothing else than to keep out the dirt that you will attract.
 
There isn’t any pitting yet, and I have ran the berry hone before so I was going to bring his motor to my garage that’s heated so it doesn’t happen again and do it for him, remove the crank, “hopefully” make a quick pass down the bires to clean them up, use a gun bore brush thru the lifter bores, and try Pittsburgracers idea of scotchbrite in trans fluid on deck surface, hopefully that cleans it up good because the block was bored/honed with torque plate, new cam bearings, align honed, rods resized with arp bolts, crank polished, rotating assembly balanced. So I know he wants to try to avoid going back to machine shop.

Thanks everyone for the quick suggestions! He also tried oil on a rag and said that helped but didn’t take it all off.
 
I do like the idea of playing the head surface and using evapo rust to remove it...
 
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