brake bleeding firm now spongie.

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You DID bench bleed the master (on the car is usually best) with the bleeder tubes fully immersed in the reservoir fluid until ALL the air bubbles were gone. Some will bleed in just a few strokes, but don't be surprised if it takes awhile and your leg wears out before you're done (helps if you've got a buddy handy to take over when that happens).
A couple of weeks ago the neighbors were trying to bleed the brakes on a 74 Dart after installing reman calipers. No go. I had them try bench bleeding the master and after about 15 minutes had them install a reman that was laying around uninstalled from a Duster. Even that one took longer than I expected to bench bleed, but after about 45 minutes the brakes were bled, and the Dart had solid brakes and good pedal feel.
On a different note, later that week the neighbor took the car to the nearest shop up the street with a rack and had it aligned. It has to be the lousiest alignment (car has new bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends) I've ever seen, by a "tech" that let the car out the door, pulling to the right, and with camber settings so bad you could see the uneven tire lean with the naked eye. Driving the car it is pretty obvious the toe wasn't even set. "Tech" told the neighbor the car had been wrecked and "that was as good as he could get it" and wouldn't give him the specs it had been set at. I told him to take it back to them and get them to make it right. I haven't heard the outcome, but I would have gotten my money back or shoved something up the shop owner's rearend. Moral of the story is to be patient, find (and use) someone that knows these old cars and has a good rep for anything you've got to farm out (like alignments).
 
Since you said it's only happening after you bleed the R/F caliper I'd start there. Take a good hard look at it to make sure there is no binding, the pads fit correctly & are seated the slides move freely & the piston isn't retracting into its bore after the pedal is released. Any unwanted movement in the caliper will cause a spongy pedal. It should feel good & tight when you grab it & try to slide or shake it once it's been bled. I've seen also seen pads that had little aligning nubs on them that were to fit other models interfere with the piston & cause it to feel like air in the system. Also make sure the rotors are in good condition & the pad isn't riding on the edge of the rotor. May sound stupid but, the brake hoses aren't kinked or twisted are they?
 
:banghead: okay.... like I've posted (not trying to sound like an asshole) the bleeder screws are at the top, I bench bled the mc mounted in a vice with a bleeder kit with the hoses submerged in fluid and pushed the piston (not complete full Stokes) till there was no more air and good fluid transfer. Installed the mc with the plugs back in then hooked the lines up and started bleeding farthest from the mc first. I think the problem was I was putting the caps back on and causeing massive vacuum in the mc Res.
 
Hoses aren't twisted and the piston motion seems good. I test fitted the pads to caliper but ill pull it and double checks it for problems. The pads and rotors are new.
 
:banghead: okay.... like I've posted (not trying to sound like an asshole) the bleeder screws are at the top, I bench bled the mc mounted in a vice with a bleeder kit with the hoses submerged in fluid and pushed the piston (not complete full Stokes) till there was no more air and good fluid transfer. Installed the mc with the plugs back in then hooked the lines up and started bleeding farthest from the mc first. I think the problem was I was putting the caps back on and causeing massive vacuum in the mc Res.
Not the caps. You couldn't put them back in fast enough to lock a vacuum in the m/c & it would be gone in the time it took you to attach the lines. I bleed them all the time that way & its fine. If it only occurs after you bleed that one wheel I'd think it would have to be isolated to that part of the circuit. Bleed it to where you get it to act up, then pinch off the hose to that caliper & see if it improves. Release it & see if its spongy again. If so, problem is in that caliper. If not move farther up the circuit. Check, check & recheck all the fittings involved. Have a helper hold pressure on the pedal & go around & look for leaks.
 
Not the caps. You couldn't put them back in fast enough to lock a vacuum in the m/c & it would be gone in the time it took you to attach the lines.
I think you may have mistake caps for the plugs that take the place of the lines. I ment the caps that cap off the mc res.
 
Jus' makin sure. The only issue leaving the caps for the mc on/ off is, if you get a "spike" of returning fluid, you'll have an overflow mess at the mc
 
I think you may have mistake caps for the plugs that take the place of the lines. I ment the caps that cap off the mc res.
Either way it shouldn't matter since the system is designed to work with the lid on the m/c reservoir.

Just to be clear. When you say it gets spongy after you bleed the R/F, is that to mean its firm until you bleed that wheel & then it gets spongy?
 
Either way it shouldn't matter since the system is designed to work with the lid on the m/c reservoir.

Just to be clear. When you say it gets spongy after you bleed the R/F, is that to mean its firm until you bleed that wheel & then it gets spongy?

Correct. The peddle gets spongie after bleeding the front right caliper.
 
well my co worker forgot his vacuum bleeder so im going to try my solo method with a jar and see if its any different outcome than gravity bleeding the system.
 
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