Brake fluid recommendations? Dot 3 VS dot 5

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this is all the DOT 5 that Napa shows and its "Napa" brand whoever makes that????
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This is a google search, never heard of any of the brands
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I used the NAPA no problem with it.
Have a few here on the self.
I was told that is what most shops use here, unless it is a dealer and when out dealers but it from NAPA. It either meets spec or not. It is labeled to meet spec.
My long time friend worked parts counter and they got stuff locally as well as MA Mopar parts. The macanics rolled cars in and out ASAP with whatever parts.
I will pull a bottle and shoot a Pic of front and back Sunday. I assume it meets DOT 5 Silicone specific
I also assumed that only a few places make it. Kinda like trans fuild.
 
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All my Darts converted to DOT 5 after complete brake system rebuild. Now is the time!!!
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Update: the master cylinder is bench bled with falsely advertised grape flavored dot 5, all four wheel cylinders are bled, brakes lock the drums up right away, very nice, a few very minor leaks, but leaks nonetheless and will be addressed accordingly, two noticeable leaks at the new inline tube braided cable lines going into the wheel cylinders… but that’s probably my fault for not installing the copper washers in between the fitting to the wheel cylinders, they did not come with the new kit and when I called inline and asked I was told not to use anything not included with the hardware, shame shame shame, I will find out tomorrow and confirm if that alleviates the leaks with the washers in…

**Side note** IF you decide to enlist the help of your 12yo daughter to assist in bleeding the brakes and you discuss the details beforehand to avoid any potential unforeseen circumstances… I would advise that you clarify, in perfect English, !NOT! To press the brake pedal until instructed to do so! (That’s absolutely on me and not her fault at all and no harm was done)

I had not hooked up the hard lines to the master after bleeding it and mounting it to the firewall and when she got in the car, her instincts took over and said “hey! Push that big flat thing on the left with your foot as hard as you possibly can! Right now! Do it! Cmon! All the cool kids are doing it! Push it!”

(Somewhat over exaggerated for dramatic story telling purposes)

Regardless. Brake fluid blasted all over the fender well and coincidentally kept some of the dust down on the garage floor… theres always a positive…

And the lesson learned, with such a circumstance in mind, DOT 5 for the win!!! The paint remains pristine mint condition museum worthy rustoleum satin black, haha! Gotta love it!

More to come once I address some of the leaks. But the pedal is firm and the system is clean. Thank you everyone for your patience and feedback in helping us with our brakes! As always very much appreciated and happy wrenching!
 
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Maybe in the line on the side that's NOT locking up, yeah. Air compresses. Fluid does not. So if there's air in the side that's not locking up, then the air is acting like a "cushion" and reducing the stopping power on that side. IF air is what the problem is.
I think the two sides are connected. So the pedal thinks they are one. If there is no pressure on one side there is no pressure on the other. Unless I'm missing something?
 
Have dot 5 in my car all new clean system at the time . I am having a issue with one rear brake locking up when the brakes are applied hard. I checked everything even changed the drums. Someone said it may have air locked in the line. Anyone heard of that?
Is there anything leaked onto the shoes? like brake fluid or rear end grease?
 
I think the two sides are connected. So the pedal thinks they are one. If there is no pressure on one side there is no pressure on the other. Unless I'm missing something?
Depends on where the air is. If it's in the wheel cylinder or caliper....then it's one sided.
 
Depends on where the air is. If it's in the wheel cylinder or caliper....then it's one sided.
How does the fluid know that it can only create pressure on one side? if you press the pedal down and hold it, then have an assistant cut the line on one side at the wheel cylinder will the other side with the uncut line still have pressure in it? Just trying to figure out how regardless of where the air is in the system how it could change the pressure on only one side.
 
How does the fluid know that it can only create pressure on one side? if you press the pedal down and hold it, then have an assistant cut the line on one side at the wheel cylinder will the other side with the uncut line still have pressure in it? Just trying to figure out how regardless of where the air is in the system how it could change the pressure on only one side.
Ok.
 
I did a complete overhaul of the brake system on the Roadrunner and went with DOT 5, no problems since the change. I see my buddy just did a 68 New Yorker and wrote DOT 5 on the top of the M/C cover. Not a bad idea.
 
I am having a issue with one rear brake locking up when the brakes are applied hard. I checked everything even changed the drums. Someone said it may have air locked in the line. Anyone heard of that?
check the surface the the shoes ride on on the backing plate. a groove gets worn in over the years and can cause odd braking. My dad and I figured that out on a 65 mustang with 4 wheel drum. It would pull, while braking, to one side no mater what we did. After see the grooves and having them welded up and resurfaced it stopped straight as an arrow.

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Hijack over!
 
A follow up to my previous post: I did verify the minor leaks at both fittings going into the front wheel cylinders, again as I mentioned that’s probably my fault for not using the copper washers, but when I called and asked inline tube I was told not to use anything that wasn’t included in the new hardware kit, which did not include a copper washers, so I did not use the old ones either, my mistake, regardless the leak was bad enough that I took it apart to inspect and the passenger side wheel cylinder threads are galled pretty badly…

When I installed the new braided brake hoses I cleaned everything and used a tiny bit of anti seize in the threads (enough to maybe kill a lady bug) just enough to help with a smooth threading and made sure none would get into the lines… but the threads are roasted to be sure…

So! Would anyone here happen to have an original front passenger side wheel cylinder they’d be willing the share? 10” drums. I would prefer to keep original parts on the car as I have, if possible. I’ll put up a wanted ad as well. Just figured I’d start here.


1965 Barracuda 10” drums front and back
#P041704 on the wheel cylinder
1-1/8” bore/ soft goods

If I can find a decent donor I plan to clean it up and hone it same as I did here and I’ll just swap in my new soft goods I used to rebuild this one.

Copper washers pictured as well and the fitting into the wheel cylinder. It threaded nicely by hand, but obviously I didn’t do something right.

Thanks everyone!

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check the surface the the shoes ride on on the backing plate. a groove gets worn in over the years and can cause odd braking. My dad and I figured that out on a 65 mustang with 4 wheel drum. It would pull, while braking, to one side no mater what we did. After see the grooves and having them welded up and resurfaced it stopped straight as an arrow.

View attachment 1716379385

Hijack over!
Thanks will check it out
 
Maybe in the line on the side that's NOT locking up, yeah. Air compresses. Fluid does not. So if there's air in the side that's not locking up, then the air is acting like a "cushion" and reducing the stopping power on that side. IF air is what the problem is.
Thanks for that, I was thinking the other side that will help
 

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