Brake light switch 72 dart
- Thread starter Boduke
- Start date
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The bracket should look like this
The bracket should look like this
ML4241 - 1960-72 Mopar Brake Light Switch
Should look like this one.
Should look like this one.
A lot of owners opt for that type switch. They are easier to adjust.
OER 1261219 OER Brake Light Switches | Summit Racing
1973-1979 Ford Bronco and F Series Truck Brake Light Switch-Broncograveyard.com
OER 1261219 OER Brake Light Switches | Summit Racing
1973-1979 Ford Bronco and F Series Truck Brake Light Switch-Broncograveyard.com
The OEM braket has a bolt and an adjustment slot. Seems pretty easy to me.
Prib go with this frim the rock...
ives used that one for custom applications. Imma go with this one i think. only because (as danadart pointed out). There is adjustment in the bracket and i like the larger contact point. But fwiw the summit switch looks beefier..
ives used that one for custom applications. Imma go with this one i think. only because (as danadart pointed out). There is adjustment in the bracket and i like the larger contact point. But fwiw the summit switch looks beefier..
That adjust point aint so easy to get to.
A-men to that.
After F'ing with both switches. I like the adjustable style redfish suggested better. Could be because my bracket hole is wallowed out. IDK.. but i threw the factory style that i just bought in the parts pile. And i used The one i had.
Hi there. I have a 1972 Dart Custom. I added a power brake booster but kept all four brakes drum. After applying the brakes, the pedal has to be lifted for the brake lights to go off; so I figured the bracket would need to be moved forward. The problem I'm having is when moving the bracket to meet the pedal it wants to slide to the left after tightening. At first I thought the push rod that came with the kit (came with three lengths) might not be the right one. I must have stripped the threads on the bracket or the bolt (bc it's so hard to reach). I ordered a new brake light switch already. Do you know if the bracket can be purchased separately? Even though the switch is brand new, I'm okay with purchasing the bracket and switch together and it doesn't have to be OEM. Thanks in advance for your time. Billy J Bouler
Its really fiddley. Keep at it. If u stripped out the threads, tap it, or file off The flange and jb weld a nut to the back side. I only remember that it was very cramped quarters under there and with a wrench i could only get like an 1/8 of a turn before i had to reposition the wrench. I doubt ur gonna find the bracket (maybe EBAY) Or u may have to re engineer it. Best of luck. Having working brake lights is cool!
Dave999
Well-Known Member
so adding the new booster set up has lowered your peddle?
in whch case have you got the right pushrod length?
and depending on year is it in the correct hole in the brake peddle lever. The pivot point was different i think between manual and assisted brakes.
if you do have the right rod in the correct pivot point, adjusting the switch position may be necessary
However if it only does this when the motor is running or when the motor is running and after pressing the brakes. the booster is still slightly on and the brake lights will go off and on depending on vacuum/throttle position/load.
that issue needs to be adressed first before you set your switch.
why do you mention new booster and still drums? is the master cylinder a drum master cylinder or a disk/drum master. a disk/drum master will be missing the residual pressure valves under the place where the brake pipes attach for the front brakes
that might mean the peddle droops becasue the pressure in the front circuit is not enough to bring the master cylinder back to "rest".
you would normally pull them out with a wood screw if using a drum master with disks or (modern car drum cylinders like off a dakota truck) although thats not great becaue you need the big and small resevior master cylinder for disks/drums they come with a sensible bore for the mixed application.
Dave
in whch case have you got the right pushrod length?
and depending on year is it in the correct hole in the brake peddle lever. The pivot point was different i think between manual and assisted brakes.
if you do have the right rod in the correct pivot point, adjusting the switch position may be necessary
However if it only does this when the motor is running or when the motor is running and after pressing the brakes. the booster is still slightly on and the brake lights will go off and on depending on vacuum/throttle position/load.
that issue needs to be adressed first before you set your switch.
why do you mention new booster and still drums? is the master cylinder a drum master cylinder or a disk/drum master. a disk/drum master will be missing the residual pressure valves under the place where the brake pipes attach for the front brakes
that might mean the peddle droops becasue the pressure in the front circuit is not enough to bring the master cylinder back to "rest".
you would normally pull them out with a wood screw if using a drum master with disks or (modern car drum cylinders like off a dakota truck) although thats not great becaue you need the big and small resevior master cylinder for disks/drums they come with a sensible bore for the mixed application.
Dave
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I posted as my Father as I am helping him with this. I'm not as mechanically knowledgeable as probably most members on here. I'm kind of learning as I go. I was just stating the brakes were remaining all drum. I understand some choose to convert to disc brake when putting on a power booster kit. He purchased a booster and master cylinder all in one and it came with three different length push rods. Thank you for all of the information. I'm going to double check the holes in the pedal and the pivot points like you suggested before I work with the switch. I appreciate the help.
Thank you so much for taking time to reply. The brackets are definitely hard to find. I'm pretty sure I can make it work. Thanks for all your help and advice.
Just use a universal with a hose clamp ...DONE!!
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