Ok guys need a answer, car is dedicated strip car NO street, it there any reason that we cant use -3 stainless flexible line to plum the front brakes and use -3 stainless flexible line for the main line going to the rear???? Disc front drum back, also do I need to keep the proportioning valve??? Thanks steve
brake line question
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1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
You still need to stop reliably.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I would not use it all the way back....use the standard setup with steel most of the way and then the SS braided. Del makes the right point: SS braided makes a good hard pedal vs standard rubber but all the way back is too much, IMO.
Woods74
Broke Senior
Whats wrong with regular steel brake lines?
Nothing this is a website and looking for answers to questions I have that come to mind thats all.i agree with all the answers, I didnt think the stainless lines expanded at all so see thays how u learn you ASK QUESTIONS .Thanks guys
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
That braided line is pretty expensive. I usually buy replacement brake and fuel lines through RIGHT STUFF DETAILING. They have options for stainless steel instead of plain steel. Besides the functional and cost benefits, I think that a hard line would look better. If you're worried about the difficulty changing it out, - it's really not too bad.
Lonewolf3165
Living the Dream!
X2 on the RightStuff products. I bend my own stuff & I can get it just as good but I've installed their stuff in the past & it was very good. SS braiaded lines would also be ridiculously expensive too.
I've plumbed two race cars exclusively in -3AN braided SS hose. One was an IMSA class winning road racer, the other is a still yet to be driven quasi Pro-Mod drag car. It is fast and easy to do. Its not the least expensive option. If you stay with AN flares (buy the correct tool) all of the way thru the system then there really isn't much difference in the install time though the steel tubing will be slower. According to the driver that IMSA car's brakes worked very nicely and were easy to modulate. I would contend that full SS braid is still less flexy than OE rubber hoses and steel tubes. Probably not by a lot, but perhaps noticeable.
Was it me and regardless of budget, I'd use steel tube for the non-flex sections, convert to AN flares at the M/C and calipers/wheel cyls, and use nothing but AN flares at all of the junctions in between. Use steel fittings, tube nuts, & sleaves. Make the transitions from tube to flex with a bulkhead union poked thru a tab welded to the chassis. You'd need to do this with full flex line anyway.
You will need a proportioning valve (possibly in the front system) unless you spend some time dialing in the system by testing and changing the rear wheel cyl size and reducing the caliper piston area to a minimum. Even then I'm not sure that you could get there. Drag cars can have too much front brake. They almost can't have too much rear brake.
Was it me and regardless of budget, I'd use steel tube for the non-flex sections, convert to AN flares at the M/C and calipers/wheel cyls, and use nothing but AN flares at all of the junctions in between. Use steel fittings, tube nuts, & sleaves. Make the transitions from tube to flex with a bulkhead union poked thru a tab welded to the chassis. You'd need to do this with full flex line anyway.
You will need a proportioning valve (possibly in the front system) unless you spend some time dialing in the system by testing and changing the rear wheel cyl size and reducing the caliper piston area to a minimum. Even then I'm not sure that you could get there. Drag cars can have too much front brake. They almost can't have too much rear brake.
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