brake pedal switch?

-
R

R3dplanet

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
283
Reaction score
50
My car has a Ron Francis pressure switch to activate the brake lights. Even though it's a low pressure switch, it doesn't activate until there's significant brake pressure. Anxious to avoid a rear end collision, I'd like to wire in a stock switch at a the brake pedal.

Can anyone show me a photo or diagram of where to install one one and how it operates? I've Googled around and found not one thing.

Thanks,
Marcus
 
What do you have for a wiring harness, IE factory, Ron Francis, etc?

Basically, the brake light switch RECEIVES fused power from a "hot" source so it works with the key off. The cold / switched side feeds into the turn signal switch.

You should be able to just hook it to the two connections. at your pressure switch.

AND MOST IMPORTANT. You are going to have to tell us what you are working on

1928 Farmall?



47 Stude pickup?



??or??


ROB!!!!! WHERE IS THAT DAMMED CRYSTAL BALL????
 
Oh, right. I often forget to mention my car when I do these posts at 1:00am. My car is a '65 Barracuda. Is doesn't have a Ron Francis harness, it's a Painless Wiring harness which is new as of four years ago. It's just the switch that I have from RF.

On the subject of tractors, I wish I had a 1959 Porsche Super. Diesel and gorgeous.

Anyway, I still need some pictures.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • tractor.jpg
    57.2 KB · Views: 290
That will be hard to do on a modified harness. Do you still have the original signal switch connector at the column, or has it been cut and redone?

You can download a factory manual here

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

Or here. There are also simplified diagrams in the wiring section, sometimes incorrect and sometimes leaving out options like AC, but sometimes, simpler to follow

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

From the 65 manual, page 8-96

This is the original column. So the wiring colors up into the column should still be the same. Wire D4A to pin 7 is the stop lamp, that comes FROM the switched side of the brake light switch on the pedal. Look at the chart. D4A is a no18 RED wire.

I cannot help you with a power source. Nobody except the guy looking at the car can possibly know how that harness was installed.
 

Attachments

  • signalsw.jpg
    24.7 KB · Views: 304
  • colors1.jpg
    91.8 KB · Views: 265
  • colors2.jpg
    70.8 KB · Views: 282
Let me clarify. I have no problem with wiring what I need to wire (although the diagram is helpful!) in terms of the single wire to the switch. What I'm saying is that I don't have stock brake pedal switch and never have. I have no idea where or how it mounts to the pedal or pedal cluster or what. So what I'm really looking for is the actual physical mounting of the switch, and what the switch looks like.

I can't calz it a day because there isn't a switch on the pedal. The Ron Francis switch is a small device that hooks up to the proportioning valve and uses brake fluid pressure to trigger a tiny internal mechanism to close the brake light circuit. Here's a link:

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SW-32

I want to do away with this switch and back to stock. But I have no reference for what the stock switch looks like.

In the meantime, I'll download the manual from the link 67Dart273 posted.

Thanks,
Marcus
 
Oh, I see a little better now. There's a bracket. Or at least there should be. Mine doesn't have the bracket any longer. Now if I can just find a photo of the opposite side of that bracket. Hopefully there's and adjuster or something.
 

Attachments

  • fig12.jpg
    46.4 KB · Views: 277
Also, O'Really or someone maybe NAPA, sells a switch that has threads and a nut so you can "fine adjust" the switch. That is much easier than trynna get up in there and fiddle that bracket.

Like so

mnSPEwHY3cEZnZEdr8klVeg.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
Also, O'Really or someone maybe NAPA, sells a switch that has threads and a nut so you can "fine adjust" the switch. That is much easier than trynna get up in there and fiddle that bracket.

Like so

Click to expand...

I got mine (just like the picture) at Autozone, only the HD version and I think it was about 8 bucks.
A bracket would be easy enough to make.
 
I happen to have a extra bracket that fits the brake light switch that Trailbeast posted. Let me get a clearer pic for you on where it installs etc.. be back in a bit with them and if you have the same mounting as my car you can have the bracket for free.
 
Here are the pics. Sorry its a lot harder than I thought to get a pic of the switch installed. This is on my 71 Scamp. I believe the switch and bracket are the same from 68-72. There is a slot on the steering column support that this slides back and forth on for adjustment. You can kind of see it behind the orange wire on the switch. If you can use the bracket it is yours. Just PM me your addy. Sorry but I need to keep the switch.

View attachment IMG_20140515_175439_079.jpg

View attachment IMG_20140515_175544_564.jpg

View attachment IMG_20140515_175709_880.jpg

View attachment IMG_20140515_175730_218.jpg
 
The bottom style in your pics and the adjustable switch we posted above will work together.
I don't know about everyone else, but I like my brakelights to come on if I even think about em, and the adjustable switch makes it easy to adjust or change.
 
Dad n I had issues with his brake lights and an original style switch(no threads). We went to Napa or whomever and got the one with the nut and threads for adjusting. Our bracket is identical to what straightlinespeed posted. Also the switch with nut is very similar.
 
Peeps,

I'd like to thank everyone for the help, especially Straightlinespeed who quickly sent me a bracket.

Unfortunately, I've discovered that the brackets posted above are not the correct ones. I couldn't make this one work, and it obviously was not made to fit. So I drove out to Wildcat Auto and they hooked me up with the right one. You can see from the photo that it's quite a different part, but thankfully after soaking for a day in vinegar and quick rotary polish the part number emerged: 2631046 suffixed with MB-25 AAUL.

What initially confused me is that I couldn't find the part in the service manual, and then when I looked around on the Internet, which is a cauldron of smoking dung, I found the above (later/incorrect) bracket with the part number of the correct one Wildcat sourced.

Anyway, minor problem solved. Thanks a million to everyone for their input.

-marcus
 

Attachments

  • P1020666.jpg
    18 KB · Views: 192
  • P1020669.jpg
    53.5 KB · Views: 214
Bummer, sorry the bracket didnt work out for you. Although Im glad that you found the correct one to work for you. Will the brake light switch that I sent with the bracket work at all or is that totally different also?
 
To help everybody, and hopefully not add to the confusion. I think the following are correct:

Early brake pedals are different, they drop down on the right side of the steering column, as the photo in post #11. When they changed to the collapsible mesh steering column (I think), the pedal drops down on the left (photo in post #15). Main reason why the brake switch changed. I posted photos of both pedals next to each other.

Early cars (1966-?) have separate bulb filaments for turn signal and brakes. Thus, they didn't need to route the brake lights thru the turn signal switch as later cars do (that share a filament). The turn cam is simpler for these, w/o the 2 wires to solder. I think you can still use a later turn cam on early cars, just don't use the wires. At least I once used a turn cam for my 69 Dart in my 65 Newport.

Finally, seems we slapped RD3planet around enough for not telling us anything about the car with the problem, and above is the rational for the slaps. Early A's are much rarer, so always mention that.
 
do you still have the bracket that you sent him?

I would like to buy it from you..

Thanks,
Bruce
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top