Brake power or non power?

[northeastmopar]

Hello,
My Demon 340 car came with drim brakes all around. The brake master cylinder area was empty when I got the car. If it had drums all around, can I assume it was standard (non-power brakes)? I have upgraded to the LBP front discs and the larger rear drums for 15" wheels. My motor build is a 416 stroker. I was wondering if I should install regular Master cylinder or go with power? I understand vacuum may be an issue for the power? I do have the build sheet for the car and under the brake items it lists the codes front B04, rear B24, drums B11. Power column is blank. So the proportioning valve which is still on the frame rail I take it is a non power drum brake. I did get the proportioning valve with the front disc setup which I bought used. How do I know if that proportioning valve is for power or standard discs with rear drums? I think I like the idea of staying away from power so I can keep things simple and not worry about vacuum plus gain more space in the engine bay?

 

[kursplat]

i vote non-power. i end up taking the power booster off every A-body i get

 

[68383GTS]

I like manual disc myself.

 

[wjajr]

Use a “new” not rebuilt manual disk/drum master cylinder from a later A body or F body. The later MC has larger fluid capacity.

 

[69DARTS]

use 1 off a dodge truck say 85 or so

 

[northeastmopar]

use 1 off a dodge truck say 85 or so

Anybody else fooled with this setup. I am leaning toward manual master, as I have no brackets or support brackets for a power booster as my car had all manual drums. I did get a disc drum proportioning valve from the dude that sold me the calipers and spindles.

 

[BillGrissom]

I would use a 7/8" or 15/16" bore MC, no larger. If you bleed well you should not have excessive pedal travel and an easier pedal force. An alum MC will save weight and look better, but all the ones I know are 2-bolt, so need a 4 to 2 bolt adapter ($30 ebay). Many use an ~85 Dodge truck one. I used a ~95 Breeze ABS MC (2 ports) on all my old Mopars. Don't go 99+, or often bubble flare ports, though you can actually form those easy (youtube).

The proportioning valve isn't affected by the MC or booster choice. All MC's I know of produce the same fluid pressure in the front and rear circuits. Your fixed prop valve is only proper for a certain combination of both front-rear brakes and tires. An adjustable prop valve is better if you tune it (wet parking lot) whenever conditions change (different tires, shoes or pad, ...). Cheap ones are $25 but you probably want the imbalance warning switch too, so ~$75. Your fixed one is probably close enough if you don't try drifting on mountain roads.