Just curious what you guys are doing to convert your early brake push rod to a modern master cylinder. The early A master cylinder had threads. My new master have them. Am I missing something. Im doing a Drum disk conversion.
Brake push rod
- Thread starter cmac64dart
- Start date
-
cudamark
Well-Known Member
I just converted my '66 the same way....from single master drum to dual master disc. Bolted right up and the push rod length was correct too. I don't know what your problem could be. Maybe a photo of your parts? What threads are you referring to?
The stop plate on the push rod has screws that bolted to the old master cylinder. The new master cylinder does not have these threads
slantsixdan
=..=
…because the dual master cylinder, if you select the correct one, has a snap ring for the piston stop. No external bolt-on plate needed. The master cylinder you want is linked here, along with other suggestions for a successful drum-disc swap. Also see here.
You'll need a distribution (splitter) block; this can be had used from any A-body with 4-wheel drums, '67-up, but those aren't exactly common in the yards any more, so probably easiest to get it new from Inline Tube. You'll need to run dual hardlines from the new master to the splitter block. Be sure to bend two fully-circular loops in each of them to let them flex. Steel line is standard and is a pain to work with; Cunifer is a lot easier (and better).[/B]
You'll need a distribution (splitter) block; this can be had used from any A-body with 4-wheel drums, '67-up, but those aren't exactly common in the yards any more, so probably easiest to get it new from Inline Tube. You'll need to run dual hardlines from the new master to the splitter block. Be sure to bend two fully-circular loops in each of them to let them flex. Steel line is standard and is a pain to work with; Cunifer is a lot easier (and better).[/B]
Thanks. I will check it out. I already have the splitter
There is a plastic piece with 4 holes and the lip for the boot. @Oldmanmopar has a photo of them.
slantsixdan
=..=
So brute force it is. Thanks
slantsixdan
=..=
You may need to re-use the rubber retainer bushing, so mete out your violence on the pushrod with care.
Will do thanks
My 1 of a kind brake rod puller!
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Wow! You must work for Mercedes or some other overpriced car maker! To do a simple job, spend a fortune in engineering!
I knew jealousy would rear its ugly head .
I like your tool.
Simple and slow.
Simple and slow.
Dan,
As usual thank for your expert advice, so I am building a 63 Dart Wagon, Staying with the small 9x2 shoes in the rear, Does this MC still serve correctly? https://www.amazon.com/dp/b000c71k0u?tag=namespacebran131-20
And this distro block? https://www.inlinetube.com/products/blk243
Thanks in advance.
slantsixdan
=..=
Yup, this master cylinder and this splitter block puts you on the right track.
Thank you sir! Amazing If a guy wanted to convert over to a Kelsey-Hayes disk brake system can't find the steering knuckle or the hub...... strange, unless someone has found it!!!
slantsixdan
=..=
I just ordered. Thanks !! Seriously
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Lucky you salvaged the rubber bushing which locks the brake rod in the MC piston. I did a test fit with a new bushing once, then had to remove the rod (to slip on the dust boot) and tore up the new bushing getting it out. I bought them from a brake vendor (Dr Diff?). My 1964 Valiant is manual drum brakes, but I changed to a dual MC, using an aluminum 2-bolt one for a 1999 Breeze ABS ($25 new) with a 2-4 adapter plate ($30 ebay). The brake rod fit and the pedal wound up in the same place. I glued a dust boot to the MC to be safe.
Manual Brake Booster Rod? Conversion for 65 Barracuda
Many use the Dr Diff package, which leverages a later Dodge truck MC. I recall a version with a smaller custom bore. But some prefer the old crusty cast-iron with leaky cap. Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit
For a conversion to front disks, most people use a proportioning valve. If not, the rear wheels may skid first, to cause loss of control. I put a new adjustable prop valve in the rear tubing in all my old Mopars. Adjust in a wet parking lot until the fronts skid just before the rears. I kept the OE distribution block, but just as a tee for the 2 front wheels. Plugged the rear port (inv flare M plug) and put a 3/16"F to 1/4"M inv flare adapter in the top port from the MC (F port, at rear), all fittings in bubble packs at Autozone.
Manual Brake Booster Rod? Conversion for 65 Barracuda
Many use the Dr Diff package, which leverages a later Dodge truck MC. I recall a version with a smaller custom bore. But some prefer the old crusty cast-iron with leaky cap. Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit
For a conversion to front disks, most people use a proportioning valve. If not, the rear wheels may skid first, to cause loss of control. I put a new adjustable prop valve in the rear tubing in all my old Mopars. Adjust in a wet parking lot until the fronts skid just before the rears. I kept the OE distribution block, but just as a tee for the 2 front wheels. Plugged the rear port (inv flare M plug) and put a 3/16"F to 1/4"M inv flare adapter in the top port from the MC (F port, at rear), all fittings in bubble packs at Autozone.
That is a new lock rubber in the final picture. The OE sheared like they always do. It is designed to be a one use item.
-
