Brakes stickin after brake job

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DaDuke

DaDuke

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Jacksonville Florida
My brake pedal went to the floor when I bought my 74 Swinger and wanted to make sure my brakes were done right so I was going to get new tires anyway and went to Sun Tire to check brakes.
I had rear wheel cylinder brake fluid leaking from rear drums and pads were cracked and worn so replace pads and cylinders, still pedal to floor so they replaced master cylinder, while driving home brakes were trying to stop the car with smoke pouring off front brakes, when I made it home front brakes smoking and rears hot. Oh and during the rear brake job they turned the drums only to notice they were scrubbing the pads on the inside badly so I bought new drums and still scraping badly on the inside, they put washers behind the drums swearing they were the right pads??
They will be towing the car back up there Friday and Im not sure what to think??
Any ideas???
Thanks in advance
 
I'm facing a similar issue with Big O Tires, where they replaced my front and rear brake cylinders, shoes, everything, then decided to change the master cylinder, then the front brakes wouldn't let go after you stopped at a stop sign. Now the brake pedal travels about 3/4 of the way down before the brakes start grabbing. No leaks either, and I've been back and forth with them because they swear up and down they took the drums back apart and everything is just as it should be. This was after the cylinders they replaced popped again.

Hopefully you get yours resolved, but my belief is that the companies hire people who can do tires - and that's it.
 
First idea I had was a different shop.
If they didn't do anything with the fronts then I would think contaminated fluid in the calipers and pitted pistons binding in thier bores.
In a car of this age they shouldn't have touched it at all unless they did a full system with at the very least flushing all the lines.

One other thought would be that the wrong master could have been used and it isn't letting the fluid return to the reservoir when you let the brakes off. (thereby keeping the brakes on.)
Whatever it was/is it ruined the new brakes and your rotors, and they should replace it all.
They should also pay to have your car towed back in since they made it undrivable.

This is what happens when we let people in shops work on our cars.
 
I took off front tires to look at pads and the looked good still but after reading forums Im worried about pad separation now. Should the replace free of charge or is this my problem now its such an old car?
$425 + $225 so far.
 
1) Get a Chrysler factory service manual for your car. C H R Y S L E R. Not Haynes or Chiltons.

2) Read up on the brake section.

3) Diagnose and repair the brakes yourself. Sounds like you either have the wrong shoes or drums.

Hydraulic non ABS brakes are VERY simple to diagnose and repair yourself. There is nothing too difficult about owning an old Mopar that even a complete novice cannot learn to repair. Learn it. Do it yourself to make sure it's done right or you will always be at the mercy of someone else that probably knows less about old cars than you.
 
RustyRatRod said:
1) Get a Chrysler factory service manual for your car. C H R Y S L E R. Not Haynes or Chiltons.

2) Read up on the brake section.

3) Diagnose and repair the brakes yourself. Sounds like you either have the wrong shoes or drums.

Hydraulic non ABS brakes are VERY simple to diagnose and repair yourself. There is nothing too difficult about owning an old Mopar that even a complete novice cannot learn to repair. Learn it. Do it yourself to make sure it's done right or you will always be at the mercy of someone else that probably knows less about old cars than you.
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I agree completely about the drums/shoes.

What about the fronts burning up RRR?
 
I questioned the rear pads and was told he ordered off the rear end model numbers because it has a Mustang 8 3/4 rear end which I told him. He also ordered the drums from that model which looked different from OEM's. I did not agree with the washers placed behind drum on axles. I watched all day from 10 AM until 6 PM and was tired and ready to just leave because I have to go back for the tires anyway.
 
DaDuke said:
I questioned the rear pads and was told he ordered off the rear end model numbers because it has a Mustang 8 3/4 rear end which I told him. He also ordered the drums from that model which looked different from OEM's. I did not agree with the washers placed behind drum on axles. I watched all day from 10 AM until 6 PM and was tired and ready to just leave because I have to go back for the tires anyway.
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Holy Crap.
Sounds too late to run. :)
 
TrailBeast said:
What about the fronts burning up RRR?
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I'm thinking you were on it with the pistons sticking in the bores. I have seen people push them in with a C clamp before, after they have been out too far for too long, and they can hang up.
 
DaDuke said:
I questioned the rear pads and was told he ordered off the rear end model numbers because it has a Mustang 8 3/4 rear end which I told him. He also ordered the drums from that model which looked different from OEM's. I did not agree with the washers placed behind drum on axles. I watched all day from 10 AM until 6 PM and was tired and ready to just leave because I have to go back for the tires anyway.
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Run Forest Run....

Wow, that's unbelievable.
 
buy yourself a good brake line wrench set and an FSM. Brakes are about the lowest tech system on the car, and the cheapest to maintain.
 
TrailBeast said:
I agree completely about the drums/shoes.

What about the fronts burning up RRR?
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A LOT of times, adjusters get put back on backwards. When that happens, every time you hit the brakes, the shoes tighten up. Seen it hundreds of times.
 
Also check brake hoses, they come apart internally and can act as a check valve, not releasing pressure.
 
a mustang 8 3/4 ?? washers behind the drum ?????
 
So $700 into a bad brake job and I'm hearing I should turn and run and I need to fix the brakes myself??
The manager is not giving up he's actually pretty cool saying they will figure this out no matter what.
I thought for sure it was a simple pad and turn brake job but has turned into much more...:eek:ops:
 
when we buy a total tu-- project, we figure we NEED to replace everything in the brake system, right>if disc car, maybe it has usuable rotors?? so when we buy a "driver" from someone, unless he replaced all the lines and MC, we need to do at least that part.,,, inspecting the rest of the system would give clue if more is needed. suspect wheel cyclinders, rebuild or replace for sure..... stopping can be so important!?????

like RRR said, brakes are the most basic of repairs for someone to learn to do themselves. I understand not everyone has a garage or needed tools, but...... basic tools are brakes are cheap, find a shade tree!!?? LOL
I Canada, build an igloo! LOL
 
#1 you owe them $ 0 more
#2 if that is your car in the avatar-- you need to learn what you have,, research 8 3/4 rear

you car is most likely has an 8 1/4 rear with disc brakes up front
very common parts & still readily available.
shimming the brake drums makes no sense-- is this shop qualified to work on cars?

post up a picture of the rear end in your car,
go to rock auto to see what is needed for the parts-- ie front pads & rear shoes plus rubber lines & possibly wheel cylinders.

you have 1 day to educate yourself & make that car safe to drive..

this site has valuable information-- the search tool is fantastic-- use it.
Lawrence
 
This might be a good example of what future owners are going to deal with after we put brand x cars together. Different from OEM can lead to a lot of head scratching when seeking replacement parts. Good luck
 
I've been working on Mopars for over 40 years and I've never, ever heard of shimming out brake drums with washers!

After reading through this thread, all I can say is these people are not competent to go anywhere near brake systems. I know one would think you should give them a chance to correct the situation they caused but I don't think they were capable of getting it right the first time, they sure won't get it right the second.

At this point if you're not going to try to repair the car yourself, I would find a good independent mechanic and have him repair it and get your money back from the first shop. Hopefully you put it on your credit card so you have some recourse in getting your money back.

This story is a good lesson in why with these older cars you should learn to deal with them yourself. Get a FSM and some tools, there is plenty of help here to guide you.

Redfish makes a very good point, any changes from a stock configuration should be carefully documented and stay with the car. Something like a log book in the glove compartment.
 
That for sure is a Mopar part number and Penta Star logo on that rear end. I'm not sure what Mustang brakes have to do with anything unless some how the backing plates were changed.
 
DaDuke said:
View attachment 1714780840

View attachment 1714780841I'm listening and do appreciate all points discussed.
Sorry not very clear pictures but was told 8 3/4 rear end by seller
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That IS a Mopar 8 ¾, why they ordered parts for a Mustang is beyond me.

Your car probably didn't come with that particular rear in the beginning. When they ordered the brake parts, they probably ordered them to your car, which would be different. A good parts guy could look up another vehicle that rear came in and get the correct parts.
 
Here is the parts list from seller
Looks like I need to start checking part number and start my own sheet for what is really in the car.
View attachment Parts list.jpg

I do know the axles have screw in lug bolts which I thought was strange, defiantly not stock axles
 
Do you have the car at at home?

Anyway you can post a pic of one of the brake assemblies, drum etc. One side is sufficient, preferably the left side.

It'll require pulling a wheel and drum though.
 
ok --now you have issues-- this is where your education needs to tell the shop what you have.
what is the bolt pattern on that rear end?
it is possible you still have a small bolt rear-- the brake drums/shoes are difficult to come up with on short notice.
if the axles have been re-done you should have the more common 5 on 4.5 bolt circle with available parts that most 60's b body cars & 73-76 a body cars with the 8.25 rear use. I think later aspens. volares, diplomats & the like also use that brake drum.

You need to figure out what is going on-- it is really difficult for this site to diagnose a little at a time,
what is the bolt circle on that rear? on the front? these cars have been around the block & who knows what was done previously?
The problem is your shop tried to rig your brakes & that is unsafe& dangerous-- so that shop is questionable at best.


tell that shop what parts are needed -- get the parts & put them on yourself-- or pay a local FABO to fix this disaster.
 
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