Broke A Dam Shifter Cable.again

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63VALIANT*KISS

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I Dont Know What It Is I Think This Time It Got Wore On A Part Oof The Housing In A Spot And Gave Out But Are B&m Shifter Cables Very Durable It Doesnt Seem Like It. Stuck In Park At My Great Grandmas Great!
 
This must be the most expensive $1000 car Ive ever seen.
 
Lol Ur Telling Me This Is The Second 60dollar Shifter Cable Ima Have To Buy For It Its The Dam Exhaust With The 318 In The Tiny Engine Compartmentmaybe I Could Wrap The Exhaust In The Engine Compartment Would That Solve Alot Of The Heat Issues?
 
you might have a ground issue if you are burning up shifter cables......
 
It's all in how you route them. It may be better to get a longer one and run it up on the bell housing. I had to do that on my '70 so I could get a straight shot at the bracket. Also, try using heat sleeve material on it...
 
i got it towed to the shop i feel naked now ! and 350 in the hole

got another cable and im hoping they can route it better and do they make heat covers like the wire covers that have the slit and slip right over the wire? or like heat wrap tape i herd ur not supposed to tape the cables tho.
 
I second the ground from motor to body. Check to make sure you have one and it is making good connections. Otherwise your shifter cable will do it and well they just overheat and lockup or break.
 
Oh Lol That Shoud Be Fine I Guess I Could Check It Lol Thought U Where Saying Theres A Nother One.

I Just Got Brandnew Cables For The Battery Those Should Be Good But I Could Check. Thanks
 
I ran into a similiar issue with the B&M cable on my RC and determined that it was the routing. I actually had to go with a shorter cable and made a standoff to keep the cable away from the headers. I also went with the Summit brand HD cable as it was a few bucks cheaper than the B&M standard cable. It's been working fine for 1 1/2 years now.
 
The motor to the body ground is usually back on the firewall and can be found going from where the heater hoses exit the firewall to the intake manifold near the coil. It will probably just be a flat braided wire cable.

The cable from the battery to the motor would most likely not be a problem in this case.
 
split fuel line hose down the side and zip tie it over the cable it works i know. Is the housing screwed and the cable good? i took mine loose unbunched the housing and repaired the red plastic with jb weld, 6. dollar fix
 
most battery to block cables have a pigtail to ground it to the firewall thus grounding the block. another really cool trick is a piece of chain a few links from motor mount block boss to bolt thru k frame on the driver side.. grounds block and restrains block in event of broken motor mount
 
sweet i will and to awnser a couple things.

i misstyped i said i d0o have a kickdown on it dont.

and as the chain thing i have chain on the drivers side bolted to block and wraped around k member it was this way when i bought it my dad said old school safty drag car stuff.

ima use the fuel line way i think unless i find something better at the hardware store or kragens
 
Like ramcharger said, go with an HD cable. I used to have that problem, back when I used run an auto, went through two used cables and then stepped up to a new HD cable and made sure I routed it away from exhaust and clamped it down every 6". I never had another problem with it.
 
well it wasnt the ground it was how it was routed it got pinched right at the tranny mount for it off the pan and was completly L'ed i got a new cable and the mech assuerd me it would last much longer how he did it routing it in front of the starter then on the left side of the starter it was too close to the exhaust manifold. and somehow these guys broke the lock lever on my b&m starshifter in half i have to use 2 hands to shift into drive now lol.they said they would put the new one in if i bought it. and the lokar braket and kickdown doesnt work with a stock throttle cable iff anyone didnt know. still dont have the kickdown till i get the throttle now.
 
My q stick cable runs between the starter and the header (touching). I wrapped the tube with heat wrap. It works great. Cool that you fixed it!

B
 
yea its touching a lil in one spot on the block i may wrap that with it the header wrap stuff . does that stuff really cool the engine more like it says?
 
Here is some pics (heat shrink tubing fixed my first screw up. Using it as my spare)
shiftercable001.jpg


shiftercable002.jpg


shiftercable003.jpg


shiftercable004.jpg
 
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