Broken tabs/ears on pump gear

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POPS6T6

POPS6T6

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So, has anyone else ever experienced this or is it just my lucky day? Here is an abbrievated story.. Bought my torque convertor from Summit on March 7th 2014 (pay attention here) and last week I finally got around to installing it (a few moves, buying a house, job blah blah) got it all installed, and was working on the very last flexplate to torque convertor bolt and even at only 22lbs the bolt tightened, then slipped.. at first I was just wondering if I wasn't seated on it 100%, so I tried again, and it never even tightened, just kept spinning.. So removed the 3 bolts, unbolted the bellhousing to the engine, took a peak and yep, threads were shot. So called Summit and she kindly told me that it was a year warranty, at first I was like "well there goes that" but she told me that it was my lucky day because the date was only the 5th. Apparently I had two days! So they overnighted me another torque convertor. Well that one came in, and guess what, the tabs on the torque convertor didn't line up with the flex plate holes at all! Yes I spun it and checked every possible position. So called Summit, and once again, new torque convertor was shipped. So finally got it on the 10th and I installed it, bolted trans to engine, flexplate to torque convertor and when I rotated the cranke, there was a bind somewhere. Wouldn't rotate 360 degrees. So I unbolted everything and happened to peak in the front seal, and one of the tabs was broken off. Had slid down against the other tab.. So yeah, after all that, now I need to remove the pump and replace the gears. Only thing is, I am having one hell of a time figuring out what part # and where to get them? It is a 84-85 727 automatic.. Anyone have any advice on which one to get? I found these but not sure which one or if this is even the right part??

# A22530 Pump gears, 727 / A518, 15 lobes on outer gear,
.747 inch thick, many 1962-up, Will NOT replace 11 or 16 lobe gears!!!

# A22530A Pump gears, 727 / A518, 15 lobes on outer gear,
.748 inch thick, many 1962-up, Will NOT replace 11 or 16 lobe gears!!!

P.S.
I don't care where you get your parts from, but Summit Racing customer service has always been the best I have ever dealt with by far..
 
that's strange that there is only .001" difference in the two gears. might be a good idea to measure the bad one first. oh and it's not a main seal it's the front seal.
 
I've noticed those .748 gears listed also and I've rebuilt numerous 727's that ranged in date of mfg of 1966 to 1990 and all the 727 pump gears I've seen were .747" thick. Not sure when or where they ever used .748 gears. Still might not be a bad idea to mic yours just to make sure.

Generally when you break a lug it's because you didn't get the converter fully seated into the pump and when you tighten the bolts up to the engine the force snaps a lug off. Their hardened so their brittle and it takes very little force against them to break one. When you get the trans back together and put the converter in make sure the pads where the flexplate bolt to are 1/2" below the bellhousing surface. If their not it's not all the way in.

BTW: have you ever taken a pump out to change those gears?
 
fishy68 said:
BTW: have you ever taken a pump out to change those gears?
Click to expand...

That's funny.. I'm going to say "not yet". I have a friend who builds cars for bonnevile, below is a pic of his 64 Barracuda. I helped him out with a rear window awhile back and he is going to help me. When we pull it I will def mic check it. And I am sure I did it. I was beyond tired and frustrated and should have walked away and started fresh. No one to blame but myself..
 

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Since you haven't pulled a pump here's a tip that may help. Before you pull the pump tighten the front band down good and snug so it holds the clutch packs in place when you yank the pump out. You'll have to re-adjust the front band when your done but that's a lot easier than trying to get the clutch packs back in place. If you plan on removing the trans to do this you wont have to tighten the front band down cause you can stand the trans on the tail shaft to do it and the clutch packs wont fall out of place.
 
fishy68 said:
Since you haven't pulled a pump here's a tip that may help. Before you pull the pump tighten the front band down good and snug so it holds the clutch packs in place when you yank the pump out. You'll have to re-adjust the front band when your done but that's a lot easier than trying to get the clutch packs back in place. If you plan on removing the trans to do this you wont have to tighten the front band down cause you can stand the trans on the tail shaft to do it and the clutch packs wont fall out of place.
Click to expand...

That's a sneaky idea,Tracy. I like it.
 
fishy68 said:
Since you haven't pulled a pump here's a tip that may help. Before you pull the pump tighten the front band down good and snug so it holds the clutch packs in place when you yank the pump out. You'll have to re-adjust the front band when your done but that's a lot easier than trying to get the clutch packs back in place. If you plan on removing the trans to do this you wont have to tighten the front band down cause you can stand the trans on the tail shaft to do it and the clutch packs wont fall out of place.
Click to expand...

Yep. That works a treat. Then before you put the pump back in, grab two 5/16 - 18 x 5 inch long bolts from your local hardware store, hack the heads off them & grind a taper onto both to use as centralizer dowels. Screw them into 2 opposite holes in the case & carefully lower the pump over them. No more slipped pump gasket. Take great care as the reaction shaft support enters the high/reverse drum so as not to damage the 2 sealing rings on it. The pump should drop in with absolutely no force. Use a generous amount of assembly lube/Vaseline on the square profile O-ring on the circumference of the pump.
Cheers. Gaz
 
Got it all pulled apart. Went to a friends house and he had it done in about 5 minutes. Ordered new gear set and should have them by the end of the week. He has quite a collection of Mopars. 2 1950 Plumouth Business coupes, one stock and painted stock, the other rough and rusty with a complete custom tube chassis, big block with super charger, ultimate sleeper! Had 2 1949 business coupes, one needing restoration and the other flat black with a cherry red roof, a 1964 Barracuda (see above) that he is building with the hopes of hitting 300mph at speed week at the salt flats this August. Trying to set the world record for Plymouth! Car was chopped by a local shop and looks amazing, 20' lomg, twin turbos.. And a 34 Ford that was dyno'd at 700rwhp before the supercharger.. Has it tuned down to 600 to keep the wheels hooked up. Needless to say, learned a lot and hoping to learn more!
 

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