Buffing Single stage

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Marko

Marko

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Hey there a good Step by step and easy way to buff to get out small imperfections in single stage paint that anyone has?? Angle grinder with a buffing wheel or something???
 
What kind of imperfections? Some may buff out but as in most single stage paint it is hard to say wet sand the imperfections out because of the single stage...and usually isn't advised unless it is very fine wetsand and only used in small areas. Are you talking orange peal, dust, etc..?
 
You could use the angle grinder as long as you put a rheostat inline with the power source to get the rpm's down to 100 from say, 10,000.
Other than that, if you use the angle grinder as is, you might as well do it in the paint booth, it will save you the hassle of moving the car in and out.....
You'll be repainting it!
 
Ok……

I am a 2nd term student in auto refinishing and collision repair so I will try to help…….

But…. My help will be in giving the pros on here the info they will need.

(Because, let me tell you……. Being a 2nd term student in auto refinishing and collision repair doesn't mean @^&*)

What color is it?

How old is the paint?

What kind of defect?

Where on the car is the defect?

Could you take some pictures of the defect?
 
I agree with 1968...

Single stage metallic doesn't like too much of type of thing, as the metallic can move around and be uneven.

Fix it by hand, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit paper, etc.

All of 1968FormulaS340's questions need to be answered for an accurate answer.
 
i used single stage ppg dcc on my demon. it sands ok. its not hard to get flat and smooth,BUT it buffs like IRON. single stage urethane is meant to be a hard durable finish. i used a jitterbug with 1000 grit to get it flat. then went back over it with 1500, then 2000. that still didn t get all the scratches out. i ended up hand sanding for two days with 3000 then buffed. it turned out good, but was too much work.
like 68 said... there are some things u need to consider.
1. if it is metallic.....dont bother with it. you won t like the result.
2. how many coats of paint are on it? if you are sanding out peel...i wouldn t mess with it if there is less than 3 coats on it. you ll probably sand thru. mine had 4 coats.
3. how old is the paint? mine was 2 days old and it still buffed like iron.
i have been painting for over ten years and i would suggest to anyone thinking about single stage to just use base/clear. it is WAY MORE FORGIVING. hope this helps.
 
A jitterbug or Da sander is bad news on new paint. All you need to do is pick up 1 piece of dirt and you drug it all over the paint job. Iv'e seen it make a 24grit scratch that cant be buffed out. Once we get a better idea of what you have for paint I can give a step by step how to on sanding and buffing your car.
 
listen to this guy.. i have also seen these scratches, but unless you have muscles like ARNOLD...how else do you propose you get something flat and smooth without spending a week on it? like i said... i used a jitterbug to get it flat and final sanded by hand with 3000. mine turned out great. least the judges at the mopar nats thought so. i ll back off and let you handle this. sounds like you know it all
 
Thanks guys.. I havent seen it but i'm guessing it will be mostly surface dirt from settling in it a bit. It is only about 12 Hours old. Sassy grass green no Metalic. Urethane Paint it is. I'm not looking for a total Show car finish so if it looks nice when i get there i probably will leave it just so i dont burn through the UV coating..

We did put on 2 coats Sand it and buddy put on 2 more last night so it might be good to go anyhow! lol
 
nice color. hope it turns out good for ya. like your avatar
 
evil 340 said:
listen to this guy.. i have also seen these scratches, but unless you have muscles like ARNOLD...how else do you propose you get something flat and smooth without spending a week on it? like i said... i used a jitterbug to get it flat and final sanded by hand with 3000. mine turned out great. least the judges at the mopar nats thought so. i ll back off and let you handle this. sounds like you know it all
Click to expand...
Its called patients, A small foam block a bunch of water and sandpaper. I do it for a living if you want results it takes time. You said you seen the scratches also...If you could have avoided it would you have? Talk about people with a attitude problem.
 
Marko said:
Thanks guys.. I havent seen it but i'm guessing it will be mostly surface dirt from settling in it a bit. It is only about 12 Hours old. Sassy grass green no Metalic. Urethane Paint it is. I'm not looking for a total Show car finish so if it looks nice when i get there i probably will leave it just so i dont burn through the UV coating..

We did put on 2 coats Sand it and buddy put on 2 more last night so it might be good to go anyhow! lol
Click to expand...

This is base/clear ? Not sure what you mean about the UV coating ?

You may be able to just buff some of the dirt out. If not it will need to be wet sanded. You block and plenty of water. Stay away from body lines. If you arent familiar at buffing have someone do it for you.

When I was at the body shop we would D/A fresh clear with 1500, then 3000 wet and buff it all the time. It works great but its not something I would recommend to a beginner. Like stated, one spec of dirt stuck on the paper can ruin your day fast. Plus the paper is real expensive.
 
I use single stage acrylic urethane and wet and and buff all the time. Single stage urethane is pretty much the same as clear but with color in it. 1500 to 2000 soft block and lots of water, rinse paper very often as any dirt in paper will make deep scratch's. Then buff with a adjustable buffer at low speed so you don't burn through. Not agood idea to sand and buff single stage metalic as the metalic stacks up a certain way and sanding will alter the way it is supposed to look. Use 3M finness -it compound, a little pricey but works well. Larry
 
AdamR said:
This is base/clear ? Not sure what you mean about the UV coating ?

You may be able to just buff some of the dirt out. If not it will need to be wet sanded. You block and plenty of water. Stay away from body lines. If you arent familiar at buffing have someone do it for you.

When I was at the body shop we would D/A fresh clear with 1500, then 3000 wet and buff it all the time. It works great but its not something I would recommend to a beginner. Like stated, one spec of dirt stuck on the paper can ruin your day fast. Plus the paper is real expensive.
Click to expand...

.........AND, you have to have some exoerience in keeping that sander FLAT to the surface.......You can actually come up with discernible "rippling" in the clear that'll show up after the buff......That'll ruin any good paint job......As Adam said, it's NOT for a beginner or novice.

New guys should use a flat foam block, with their choice of wet-sand papers, starting with 1000 and higher.........then a nice buff with a circular buffer and the proper compound.
 
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