build it to last big block guys

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earthmover

earthmover

in the tire smoke
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i would like to know if any of you guys that do this stuff would like to tell:glasses7:...what do you do to your blocks ,or any little tricks of the trade that you may do to make a block last???:coffee2:??????and before it is said (get a after market block) i know i have heard that more then enough times already....:banghead::banghead: i am sure there is little secrets that will not be told but you must have some thing to share...:D:D maybe we can get more then just 2/3 post on this tread:goodman::goodman::goodman::goodman: thanks mike
 
How long do you want it to last ? How do you plan to use it ?

NOTHING is bulletproof .

Sorry for saying something about your build before .

:eek:ops:
 
You can get any engine to last depending on what tou are building it for.Mor power = less life in most cases.
 
yes it depends on your wallet too.

4340 forged steel crank, H or I beam rods, best bearings available, best pistons available. fully blueprinted. main girdles, full blown external oiling system, etc. the sky is the limit.

for a reasonably good build, get the best crank/rods/pistons you can afford, a good oiling system, use the best rod/main/head bolts ARP has for you, all good gaskets. make sure you have a good cooling system, and your ignition is tuned. dont cheap out on rockers, use new lifters with new cam. new oil pump. that bottom end will last a long time.

avoid cast crank / cast pistons if you are going over 500hp

make sure engine is balanced/blueprinted that is the most important thing of all.
 
You guys are overlooking the most important thing.

Measurements/clearances

Just build you a good solid foundation with named brand stuff & pay close attention to detail, break it in propperly & it'll last.
 
:coffee2:well I was always told to build them lose a tite motor that has to be broken in is wearing the block for Clarence.so I make them lose by a couple of thos.more then the manufacturer tells you.I always use a hi volume pump and a strate wt oil.I have built my share of motors and nun of them has ever come apart and most of them have been turt pretty hard.my motors get started cam broke in check all the fluids set timing do any adjusting needed titen headers and check other bolts and usually go state to the track.I was also told that if you are afraid of blowing it up don't even start it...........Artie
 
JoeDust451 said:
You guys are overlooking the most important thing.

Measurements/clearances

Just build you a good solid foundation with named brand stuff & pay close attention to detail, break it in propperly & it'll last.
Click to expand...

thanks joedust....not picking on anyone or anything just asking what trick and tips people use when building motors not even high hp even just a stock rebuild...i know there is a lot of good builders on this board and other sites thought some would like to share a few things they do and live by thats all...as far as my stroker go it almost tog. gotta get head gasket ordered,intake gasket,and oil pan...so this is not going to have any affect on that .......but there are alot of new members that have some good ???? and al so given some good tech help..thats all this is about....and johnrr you dont have to say you are sorry for posting on my other tread its all cool your not the first person to say that stuff ,and i am sure your not the last...lol but this will help others and some stuff others post will help you,me,or one of the other guys you never know......so any info you guys would share as to what you do and live by is all i am asking not a bash this ,or bash that..thanks i'mmmmmmmmm out mike:glasses7:
 
Put it together clean.

More engines are destroyed by dirt and foreign particles in the engine that you can possibly imagine.

Many builders have an engine assembly room that is sealed and pressurised by filtered air that constantly pushes outside air away from the assembly room through any small openings. My assembly room is the master bedroom turned into the clean room (yes, I live alone). Every corner of the room is dusted, vacuumed and the floor is mopped prior to every engine being assembled. During engine assembly I never open the outside door and only enter the assembly room through the house to lessen the chance of outside dirt getting into the engine. You cannot spend too much time inspecting and cleaning every part that you put in the engine. Even with brand new rocker arm assemblies that appear to be clean from the manufacturer, I will disassemble and run a drill through every hole, chase every thread and hand deburr every piece. Then carefully wash each piece in a clean solvent tank, that has clean solvent for each engine, and then spray wash each piece with solvent that has never been used. Then air dry the part and bag it in brand new plastic ziplock bags until it is installed. I deburr the timing sprocket teeth by hand, take the timing chain, after cleaning and before assembly, soak it in break in oil for 2 hrs stirring it occasionally. EVERY piece of the engine gets this same quality of care.
 
All good stuff mentioned above, but for me the most important thing is to start off with a perfectly clean block inside and out. I have a collection of brushes I use to go through "every" oil passage at the same time flowing with WD-40. Wash and scotch brite pad the cylinders and all gasket surfaces. I'll easily use a couple gallons of the stuff from start to finish plus the oiley residue it leaves behind stops rust. Towards the end of the cleaning I'll put a catch tray under the engine and collect the WD40 and reuse it after I've strained it through cheeze cloth to catch any dirt but also brush brissles. To clean an engine block properly I do 3 times and takes about two 8 hr days. Everytime I think a passage is clean blow with air and spray in more WD and if I ever I have to leave the block for overnite or whatever, the whole things is sealed in plastic with a new sheet evertime (don't reuse the plastic). I guess I'm anal but that's the way I do it. Almost forgot, keep the GD doors closed and therefore wear a filtered mask and sealed googles like the painters use to keep the WD out of your lungs and eyes.
 
Here are some things I do when building my motors.

1. Never build a "Cold" motor. 65 degrees or above ambient temp.

2. Clean,Clean,Clean.

3. Inspect at least twice.

4. When I start building, No one in the shop. No distractions, No second
guessing.No one to blame.



Build it strong, run it hard. enjoy every revolution.:burnout::coffee2:
 
There are a number of really good engine building books on the market. Some are Mopar specificand there are many good tips in them. Plus in the back of some they offer engine building spec sheets. These are great to keep all of your engine specs on. Plus they might give you a few more things to look at that you didnt think of at first.
Like it was said earlier, keep it clean and no distractions.

Ted
 
I tell you..........Jim nailed it. CLEAN. When you assemble an engine, your work area needs to look like you're doin brain surgery. Minus any blood, of course. As for build specifics, I have always wanted to build a box stock blueprinted 440 magnum. Blueprint everything, right where the specs say it should be. I think the results would be quite surprising, and it would last a lifetime.
 
If you are talking about the basics...I think pretty much everything has been covered about cleanliness, etc., etc..
But if you are looking for "more", in the way of actual "Tricks".....this could get really technical ?
and,
probably far beyond what you would be able to DO yourself, or, access elsewhere for yourself, in a Home DIY environment ??

NOT trying to dis-courage you....but lots of "proprietary" stuff out there, best accessed through your Builder ?
Things like Crank overbalance factors, provisions to reduce #4 main hammering, Valvetrain Geometry & V/Spring Slew rates, Thermal Stabilization, ALL of it is useful, and ALL of it,
can start discussions, rife with as many opinions as ideas ?
 
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