building a FAST legal small block

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Belive it or not I have actually hand ported a few sets of stock exhaust manifolds with pretty good results,its a ***** but it can be done.One set was for a chevy with the crappiest manifolds Ive seen and it picked up quite a bit of power and changed the exhaust note.
 
This should help. Looks like some rules have changed from the last time I looked.

Most parts of the car will fall into one of four categories:

1) Correct* OEM parts. These parts must be proper for the year, make, model, and horsepower claimed, and they must be Original Equipment Manufactured (OEM) parts. Examples: Intake manifold and cylinder heads.

2) Correct* parts. These parts are the same as Correct* OEM parts, except they do not need to be OEM manufactured. Reproduction parts, that duplicate the Correct* Original parts in appearance, form, function and material and are primarily designed as “restoration” parts are allowed, as long as they comply with all other applicable rules. Examples: wheels, upholstery, emblems, replacement sheet metal, etc.

3) Spec parts. Parts that meet a specification defined in the rules, but are not necessarily Correct* or stock appearing. Examples: tires, exhaust system. Note: Every effort should be made to achieve a stock “look” with these parts. For example; your car did not come from the factory with a 2-1/2” mandrel bent exhaust system. But it is specified in the rules that you may run one. Do not have it powder coated pink or highly polished stainless. Rather, try to keep the finish somewhat consistent with what the original correct* exhaust system would have been.

4) Correct Appearing. Everything not specified otherwise must be correct appearing. “Correct appearing” and “appearing correct” means: upon a cursory visual inspection by someone reasonably familiar with the year, make and model claimed, it looks like a correct* part.

ANYONE USING NITROUS OXIDE WILL BE BANNED FROM PARTICIPATING FOR LIFE!



1.00 BODY
1.01 The correct* original appearance must be retained.
1.02 No custom or fiberglass replacement panels are allowed.
Repro parts are OK if made from correct* original material, ie: repro fiberglass hood on 440 six-pack.
1.03 No "custom" paint colors, designs, or lettering is allowed.
Paint color must appear stock. Graphics (for advertising or creative purposes) will not be allowed anywhere on the vehicles. Only correct* graphics will be allowed. Example: Dodge Scat Pack bumble bees ,Hurst Olds, Yenko graphics, etc. Exception: Year One F.A.S.T. sticker as provided by and placed as directed by F.A.S.T. Directors.
1.04 Front and rear car height must appear correct.
1.05 Bumpers, fenders and under hood must retain all correct* bracing and reinforcements.
1.06 Correct* inner fender panels, front and rear, must be retained.
1.07 Factory hood scoops, ram air, fresh air induction must appear correct.
1.08 Interior seating, trim, and materials must appear correct.
1.09 Aftermarket tachs and gauges are allowed if mounted on the steering column or under the dash.
1.10 Correct* glass only. All windows must be functional and closed during all runs.
1.11 Hood must be fully closed during all runs.

2.00 ENGINE
2.01 Engine block must appear to be a correct* original block and it must be an original vintage OEM or vintage OEM replacement of the same engine family and exterior size and must be made from the same material as the correct* original block. Also, a new OEM replacement block is allowed only if it duplicates a legal vintage block in design, material, appearance, bore size and performance. No aftermarket blocks are allowed. Replacement OEM blocks that have raised decks, raised cam or bigger bores are not allowed. Block casting number does not have to be correct*. No aftermarket blocks allowed.
For example:
a. A correct* 400 cid block could be replaced with a vintage, OEM 455 block, if it appears externally correct*, and is made from the correct* material.
b. A correct* Mopar 340 could use a 318, 340 or a 360 block, if it appears externally correct*, and is made from the correct* material.
c. A correct* 327 Chevy can use a 350 or 400 block, if it appears externally correct*, and is made from the correct* material.
d. A new Mopar Hemi standard replacement block is allowed, but a Siamese bore Mega block is not.
2.02 Dealer installed engines and dealer performed modifications are not allowed.
2.03 Cylinder Heads and Intake Manifold MUST be correct* OEM casting, have correct* original casting numbers and be of correct* original material.
This may very well be the most important and teched F.A.S.T. rule.
Note: Any cylinder head or intake manifold that is not the correct* casting number, must be approved and published on the F.A.S.T. website.
Casting date codes are not looked at and are not part of the tech process.
2.04 Internal engine modifications OK.
2.05 The entire engine compartment and engine assembly, including accessories, must appear correct, except for items specifically defined otherwise in these rules. Appearance of the engine will be inspected with the air filter housing off and on. Removal of pollution control air pump is allowed. Engine torque strap OK.
Engine color should appear stock.
2.06 No Nitrous Oxide allowed.
2.07 Lightweight mini starters OK. If painted to appear as stock as possible.
2.08 Aftermarket harmonic balancers are OK, if painted to appear as stock as possible.

3.00 FUEL SYSTEM AND CARBURETOR
3.01 The carburetor must appear externally correct*.
Internal modifications are OK. Carburetor housing must be the correct* housing for your application. The stamped part number need not be correct*. For example any 750 Q-jet can replace any 750 Q-jet as long as it externally appears correct*, but an 800 Q-jet cannot replace a 750 Q-jet, even if it does appear externally correct.
3.02 Carb choke flap and assembly is optional.
3.03 Choke horn removal is not allowed.
3.04 Carb spacers are not allowed
3.05 Maximum of 2 OEM type gaskets allowed under carb.
3.06 The air filter housing assembly must appear correct.
All qualifying and race runs must be done with the correct appearing air filter housing and an air filter in place. Correctly sized aftermarket air filters are OK.
3.07 The correct* mechanical fuel pump must be retained.
3.08 Electric fuel pumps are allowed if mounted in a location out of view.
Fuel regulators and fuel pressure gauges are OK, if mounted in a location out of view.
3.09 Correct* fuel lines are required from engine mounted mechanical fuel pump to carburetor.
3.10 Fuel lines from tank to mechanical pump may be upgraded.
3.11 Gasoline as outlined here is the only acceptable fuel for use in F.A.S.T..
The FAST tech inspector reserves the right to check gasoline at any time during competition. Gasoline is defined as a mixture of hydrocarbons only. The average dielectric constant (D.C.) for the hydrocarbons that compromises gasoline is 2.025. This is defined as a reading of "0" on the fuel-check meter.
3.12 Nitrous Oxide is NOT allowed. ANYONE USING NITROUS OXIDE WILL BE BANNED FROM PARTICIPATING FOR LIFE!
3.13 Propylene Oxide, Nitro-methane, alcohol and nitro-propane are NOT allowed.

4.00 EXHAUST
4.01 Cast iron exhaust manifolds are mandatory and must be correct*, have correct* casting numbers and be of correct* material. Under no circumstances will headers be allowed, including those cars that had headers delivered in the trunk.
Internal modifications are OK. Correct* appearing exhaust manifold paint or coatings are OK. Casting date codes are not looked at and are not part of the tech process.
4.02 Even if equipped from the factory with cut-outs, all runs must be made with closed exhaust running through the mufflers.
4.03 Exhaust systems may be upgraded to a maximum of 2.5" diameter head and tail pipes.
Exception: Certain Max Wedge cars left the factory with 3" inch head pipes, these cars can retain these head pipes up to, but not past, the transmission tail-shaft. Even if equipped from the factory with cut-outs, all runs must be made with closed exhaust running through the mufflers.
4.04 Mufflers must be stock looking in design.
No welded mufflers allowed. Maximum muffler inlet and outlet is 2.5”.
4.05 Exhaust pipes must exit in the correct* original location.
4.06 Excessive exhaust leaks are not allowed.
4.07 "X" and "H" pipes are allowed. The “X” pipe assembly can not exceed 24” in length.

5.00 VALVE COVERS
5.01 Valve covers must appear correct.
5.02 Valve cover spacers are not allowed.
5.03 Maximum of 2 OEM type gaskets under each valve cover allowed.

6.00 CAMSHAFT
6.01 Camshaft must produce a correct* stock sound at idle. We all know what a STOCK cam sounds like! Factory cam specs will be taken into consideration when determining the correct* idle sound.
Example: An Olds W30 or a Mopar Max Wedge car had large cams from the factory. They will not be expected to idle as smoothly as a 1973 400. Camshaft lopiness and smoothness will be teched with the engine operating at idle RPM and from the exhaust outlets. Upgrade to solid flat tappet or roller cam OK. Mechanical sounds from the valve train are not a tech item.

7.00 PULLEYS
7.01 All pulleys must be correct*.
7.02 Belts running the water pump and alternator must be retained at all times.

8.00 IGNITION SYSTEM
8.01 The distributor, distributor cap and coil must appear correct,
Distributor housing does not need to have original part number stamped in body.
8.02 Coil must be retained in the correct* location.
8.03 Aftermarket ignition boxes allowed, if mounted out of sight.
8.04 Spark plug wires and boots must be black, (or of the correct* original color if the correct* original color is not black) 8mm maximum diameter, and have NO aftermarket lettering on them.
Aftermarket spark plug wires are OK if they conform to the above rules.

9.00 COOLING SYSTEM
9.01 The radiator, fan and radiator shroud must appear correct.
Replacement radiator caps are OK. No electric fans.
9.02 Overflow cans of at least 20 oz. are required.
Aftermarket overflow cans OK, if car originally did not have one.

10.00 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
10.01 The battery must be retained in the correct* location, be functional and securely fastened down with original style hold down.
Original looking batteries are encouraged but not required, Replacement batteries are OK.
10.02 The charging system must be fully operational at all times.
10.03 Under hood wiring should appear correct.

11.00 DRIVETRAIN
11.01 Cars that were only available with a manual transmission may not convert to an automatic. And vice/versa.
For example: 1969 Camaro Z-28 only came from the factory with a manual transmission, so an automatic would not be legal.
11.02 The transmission must be of the same manufacturer as the car.
For example: an Olds with a TH400 could change to a TH350 or Powerglide, and a Chevy with a Saginaw could change to a Muncie or other GM 4 speed trans. Transmission casting numbers are not a tech issue. Internal modifications are OK.
11.03 OEM appearing aftermarket cases are OK.
11.10 Automatic Transmission:
11.11 Any torque converter is OK.
11.12 Aftermarket shifters are not allowed.
11.13 Maximum 3 forward gears.
11.20 Manual Transmission:
11.21 Any clutch/pressure plate assembly is OK. Scatter shields are OK.
11.22 3 speeds may be upgraded to a 4 speed.
11.23 Shifter must be stock appearing.
11.24 Maximum 4 forward gears.
11.30 Drive Shaft:
11.31 Aftermarket drive shaft is OK. Maximum 3.5” diameter.
Aftermarket drive shafts should be painted, to appear as stock as possible.

12.00 REAR AXLES
12.01 The rear axle housing must be of the same manufacturer as the car. OEM appearing aftermarket housings are OK.
Internal modifications are OK. Any gear ratio allowed. Aftermarket axles are OK.
Upgrade to posi-unit or spool is OK.

13.00 SUSPENSION
13.10 Rear Suspension:
13.11 Traction devices are limited to hop stop bars for upper control arms on coil spring cars.
13.12 Upper and lower control arms on coil spring cars must be correct*.
13.13 Pinion snubbers and clamping of leaf springs are allowed on leaf spring cars.
13.14 No slapper bars or ladder bars of any kind are allowed, unless originally equipped from the factory. Factory documentation will be required to prove authenticity for any cars with bolt on traction devices.
No dealer installed traction devices allowed.
13.15 Aftermarket bushings OK.
Must be the correct* original color.
13.16 Shocks and springs must appear correct.
Aftermarket adjustable shocks are OK if painted to appear correct. Composite or other lightweight material leaf springs are not allowed.
13.17 Air bags are not allowed.
13.20 Front Suspension:
13.21 The front sway bar is optional.
13.22 Aftermarket shocks, bushings and springs are OK, but must be painted to appear correct. No other aftermarket front suspension parts are allowed.

14.00 TIRES AND WHEELS AND BRAKES
14.01 Wheels must be correct*, including correct* diameter, width and material.
Note: Width may be upgraded to a maximum of 6”, if the correct* wheel is narrower than that. Reproduction wheels OK.
14.02 All 4 wheels and tires must be same size.
Exception: Mopar TA Challenger came from factory with G-60’s on rear and F-60’s on front.
14.03 Original equipment reproduction bias-ply tires only. No soft compound tires of any kind are allowed. Retread tires are not allowed. Any car is allowed to upgrade to a maximum size tire of G-70 of the correct* wheel diameter. All cars that were originally available with a 60 series tire can upgrade to a maximum size of G-60 tire of the correct* wheel diameter.
Exception: First time F.A.S.T. participants are allowed to run normal ’non-sticky’ street radials for their first F.A.S.T. race.
14.04 Aftermarket or OEM brake upgrades are allowed for safety concerns. Every effort should be made to achieve a stock appearance.
14.05 Line locks are allowed if hidden.

15.00 TRACK TECH
15.01 All track safety rules apply and you must pass track tech.
When required by track safety rules, roll bars and aftermarket seat belts will not be cause for disqualification under the 'stock appearing' requirement in the F.A.S.T. rules. We require that everyone racing in the F.A.S.T. class maintain a stock image and appearance as best they can. Every effort should be made to integrate required safety equipment with a correct appearance. Careful shaping and placement of the roll bar tubes to hide them as best as possible and painting of the roll bar is one way to try and blend in the roll bar with the interior.

16.00 UNDER BODY
16.01 Underside of vehicle needs to appear correct when viewed from ground level, 3 feet outside perimeter of the car.
Exceptions to this are any components specifically identified and mentioned in the rules.
 
Belive it or not I have actually hand ported a few sets of stock exhaust manifolds with pretty good results,its a ***** but it can be done.One set was for a chevy with the crappiest manifolds Ive seen and it picked up quite a bit of power and changed the exhaust note.

I got a guy doin that to a set of BB HP ex.mans. Basically He's cutting them in half, and he's gonna dig em out to within a millimeter of there life. He'll weld them back together and then send them out to be ceramic coated. With what I'm paying you would think I'd be better off getting a set of TTI's... but thats the look I like and want. They should flow like the Niagra Falls after there done.
 
Adam, You post for fast, but dont really want to fit the rules? ;) That's different. You need J heads, witha good porting job, at least a 4" arm, and I'd run Solid roller with a bunch of other tricks. That "must sound stock" is EXTREMELY subjective. Ignore that part. If you dont care about the rules, just build a nice simple 408. A 408 with the cams you suggest wont get out of the 13s.
 
Moper, I know, I have no clue what I want to do, LOL I cant even make it though an entire post with out changing my mind. By the time I get to doing the motor I will probably change my mind 5 more times.

I like the idea of a stock looking car, It needs to be fast, (or feel fast to me,LOL) and it needs to be streetable.

I bet anyone that is a threat in FAST isnt exactly following the rules, LOL.
 
I've been to quite a few events where the f.a.s.t. cars were running,as far as stock sounding all depends on what you call stock sounding..lol..those guys have a LOT of money in those cars,those engine are far far from stock..
 
yah but there nothing like a "stock" looking MoPar engine pounding the crap outta tricked out BB craprolet.
 
Adam, I told you I was looking into that before. There are all kinds of legal ways to make things work. If you plan to race mroe than once per event, you need to be fast. I know a bit of what soem of the guys were doing, and I have a few dieas of my own if you're serious. But it takes a ton of cash as was said. This is not a thing where Bobby whips up a set of irons and the software spits out a camshaft to match, then you go and win. Not even close. A "typical" LA based engine will cost over 10Gs to be competitive. You need to decide what you want and what you can afford.
 
Adam,theres a guy from Conn. that built a f.a.s.t. duster a couple of years ago,he post over on moparts..i think he built a 416 stroker and it runs some pretty decent numbers,maybe you can locate him for ideas..
 
340, I think his name is Scott. I'm trying to track down his Moparts name... His car was deep in the 11s, but I think he had an issue with the engine and it was apart recently.
 
Its Chris, Ive talked with him a few times. 416 stoker, Dwanye porter heads and roller cam in his new motor. His last motor was 13:1 and kept popping head gaskets.
 
66 dartman dont ever mention the stock d-dart again dang it, I passed on one for 100 bux from an 81 yo guy back in the 80s .he kept telling me it was special and wanted 100 bux for it. I didnt buy it but it had 4 speed with console 273, believe the cam was solid .528 ,it had cast iron headers, and would flat out fly, I would say im interested in it and then just take it out for joyrides lol 1 of 50 built I now hear
 
66 dartman dont ever mention the stock d-dart again dang it, I passed on one for 100 bux from an 81 yo guy back in the 80s .he kept telling me it was special and wanted 100 bux for it. I didnt buy it but it had 4 speed with console 273, believe the cam was solid .528 ,it had cast iron headers, and would flat out fly, I would say im interested in it and then just take it out for joyrides lol 1 of 50 built I now hear

I guess thats karma's way of getting back at you for taking his car on joyrides haha.
 
Adam, Have you considered building a magnum headed motor. It seems like it would meet all your expectations. Pump gas freindly and able to run mid
12:00's. The exhaust would be a sore issue without headers.
 
Adam, Have you considered building a magnum headed motor. It seems like it would meet all your expectations. Pump gas freindly and able to run mid
12:00's. The exhaust would be a sore issue without headers.

If he wants it f.a.s.t. legal he can't use magnum heads...
 
If he wants it f.a.s.t. legal he can't use magnum heads...

Yea, I know, but if he doesn't mind bending the rules a little bit, they are hard to beat for a stock looking iron head. Have the intake bolt holes drilled for la intake. The la valve covers bolt on and stock exhaust manifolds fit. As long as no one looks under a valve cover. Just a thought.
 
318 block -
360 cast heads (ported to flo 250)
4"crank
Comp XE 282S
KB 847or 846 slugs dep on comp
Extrude hone 360 manifolds

Low 12s / high 11's all day.

The exhaust mans. are where you really need to spend the $$.
 
69 u dont want to hear about the plymouth superbird I passed on for 600 bux because it had a lil bondo on the rear sail panel lol
 
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