Building New Garage-Need Ideas

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plumdart69

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I am looking to build a 28 by 34 attached double car garage and laundry room,in the near future.Need some ideas for the concrete(insulating,sealing,in floor heating(my not happen)),heating,single large door or 2 doors,lighting,shelving,insulation and any other ideas would be great.Thanks for any info.
 
I am looking to build a 28 by 34 attached double car garage and laundry room,in the near future.Need some ideas for the concrete(insulating,sealing,in floor heating(my not happen)),heating,single large door or 2 doors,lighting,shelving,insulation and any other ideas would be great.Thanks for any info.

You might want to sort thru my build thread. Might give you
some ideas. Give me a yell if you have any questions and I will
try to answer.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=34995&highlight=My+New+Garage
 
Add 20% to the size, it will never be big enough.....
 
Add 20% to the size, it will never be big enough.....

More like 120%, no mater how big, it never seems big enough! If going radiant floor heat you might want to consider sandwich forms for the foundation.
 
yea, i put up a 20x20, and wish i would of went 40x60 !
 
I put 12' high walls, then put a barn shaped roof on it and eventually added a loft.... it can add way more space for storage. When building, going taller is usually cheaper than a bigger footprint. Also, I added 3 ceiling fans which blows heat back down in the winter (22' high ceiling at the highest point) I heat with a wood stove and can "recycle" dirty shop paper towels, and cardboard all my parts come in into heat!

Also, it is helpful to build thinking later of adding on.... even if just a lean-to for some storage for bulky parts like rear end, body panels etc... just to keep them out of the elements.

bigger is better!!
 
Make the ceiling tall enough so you can add a lift in the future and don't skimp on the lighting.
 
Take a lot of time planning what will be done in each area. Then plan the lighting for each area. Then increase it by 50%. Also you will never have enough electric outlets.
 
walls at least 10 ft tall for lift, locate where lift may go dig holes for pier below concrete. stub in for water, drain and 3 inch electrical conduit (I used 2 inch it was to small because I had to use a 4 wire system for power). Do not seal your concrete and do not use a super smooth finish this way you can use concrete stain it is more durable than epoxy (won't peel up as easy) check with your local building inspector with your plans. I had mine hand drawn with the measurements and all equipment layout which i was able to make changes on later. As the work progressed I had interim inspections, this way everything has a record of approval for the insurance co. as was stated earlier you can't have to many outlets but check codes for the max per circuit, amp rating for circuits, min distance from each other and min from floor I put mine 4 ft from floor the older I get the less I like to bend. Consider running video cable and cat 5. C,at 3 for phone is ok but most cordless phones have good range. there were other things to consider also, where to place doors roll up and entry, out swinging doors means less risk of door hitting a mopar that may be close to it. that's enough for now.
 
I put up a 26x30 Carolina Carport, and enclosed it by building my own end walls with PT 4x4s and installing two 10w x 7-3 roll up doors.

My thinking was that there would be enough room (26') in front of my 17 foot long B bodies (and Dakota) for a work bench and me to work, and also to get by in the back.
That worked out pretty well, but another foot would have been nice. 28 sounds good.

At 30 wide, I tought it would be a very generous 2 car, with room to open both doors on both cars, or a tight three car if necessary.
In reality, it's fine for two, but I have packed so many parts shelves, cabinets, tool boxes, sand blast cabinet, compressor, etc in, that it's starting to become difficult to get around, although it's just a matter of carefull placement to open the doors all the way. No way am I gonna get three in there.

I'm glad I went with 10' wide doors, as you have room for the overhang of the fenders if you are still turning when pulling in. My brother just went with 9' doors and it's real tight, and difficult to walk past if the car isn't all the way in or out.

I have 8' walls. Going to 9' or 10' would have made the roll up doors more expensive, and the horizontal brace for the truss more difficult to reach. I am storing 2 full quarter panels, a half panel, a bench seat, a trunk floor, a hood, an exhaust system and several valances and side trims up there.

I'm using a Gray bumper lift, and currently have one of my cars 18" up on 4 stands. I could go up another 2-3 feet. Not going to stand up underneath, but could sit Indian style, and easily move a trans in and out.

...and I have also contemplated pouring a pad next to it and adding on a lean-to.
Can just barely get a decent pitch on the roof.

Just my 2 cents, good luck with your build.
 
I just finished my 36X40. I dug footers around outside and two runs down center for future lift using backhoe with 24" buckets so I am wider than that. Poured slab then blocked up 3 blocks high and used 8 ft studs. I had 36 ft wide trusses built 12/12 pitch then going to 5/12 on sides to match my house. Trusses are made like tray ceiling in center which adds 2 ft clearance so the outer bays are 10'3'' and center bay is 12'3" high. Gave me a room upstairs 11'5"X40' with stairs coming up in back of building. I have pics but still learning how to post them,Joe
 
If you haven't poured your concrete yet and you're in Ontario, track down a product called Vapor Lock 20/20. It will elliminate any water moisture issues you might have. Made in Smithville by Specialty Products Group (Imco Technologies) www.spggogreen.com I sprayed VL 0/0 on my slab three years ago and you can not find any moisture under any wood, steel or paper I leave on the floor.
 
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