building up a late model 440

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Resto

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Hey. I was curious if anyone is familiar with late model 440 big blocks (75-78. I've heard so many different opinions on them. I've heard that the blocks are thinner, then I've heard they are actually thicker. I've been told they can only be bored .20 over and also that they can only be bored .30 over. I'm wanting a 440 that I can build up to be at least 450+ ponies.My question is can a late model 440 still be built up just as much as an earlier model. If some one can clear this up for me I'd really appreciate it. This 440 is for my 74 swinger
 
the newer 440's have cast cranks and dismal compression. I have heard all the speculation about the block as well. I wouldnt be afraid to run one. I would find a forged crank and rods though. 450hp is very very easy with that many cubes. all you need is a mild cam, 4 barrel duel plane intake and a 750 carb and about any off the shelf headers. that is with a rebuild and 9.5 compression. there are all kinds of off the shelf pistons for the 440. a set of 452 heads with bigger valves or a set of 906's would get you your 450hp all day long.
 
the newer 440's have cast cranks and dismal compression. I have heard all the speculation about the block as well. I wouldnt be afraid to run one. I would find a forged crank and rods though. 450hp is very very easy with that many cubes. all you need is a mild cam, 4 barrel duel plane intake and a 750 carb and about any off the shelf headers. that is with a rebuild and 9.5 compression. there are all kinds of off the shelf pistons for the 440. a set of 452 heads with bigger valves or a set of 906's would get you your 450hp all day long.

Ok, awesome. I'm wanting 450HP at least. Im either running a six pack set up or a dual quad set up. I just know that hood clearance is an issue with the six pack set up on a440. I have brand new headers and a brand new racing cam. I want to be over 500 ponies ideally. So you say that if i get the one that's from 75-78, i need to buy a forged crank and rods instead of cast cranks that come on those models? You know anything about the bore situation?
 
500hp is getting more radical. if your a beginner or just learning about building performance engines i would highly recommend running a single carb. i see alot of duel 4 cars at the track that run like **** because they cant get them tuned correctly. with any performance build i would have the block sonic checked and magnafluxed prior to boring. what are the specs. on your "race" cam? building an engine that performs well is all about the combo. the parts have to compliment eachother or it will just be a fancy looking expensive dog. trust me on this. just because you spent alot of money on a part doesnt mean its gonna work with your combo. i have been learning this the hard way. I have a low compression 383 with a top end that belongs on a 600hp engine. it does ok but it doesnt make as much power as i thought it would.
 
500hp is getting more radical. if your a beginner or just learning about building performance engines i would highly recommend running a single carb. i see alot of duel 4 cars at the track that run like **** because they cant get them tuned correctly. with any performance build i would have the block sonic checked and magnafluxed prior to boring. what are the specs. on your "race" cam? building an engine that performs well is all about the combo. the parts have to compliment eachother or it will just be a fancy looking expensive dog. trust me on this. just because you spent alot of money on a part doesnt mean its gonna work with your combo. i have been learning this the hard way. I have a low compression 383 with a top end that belongs on a 600hp engine. it does ok but it doesnt make as much power as i thought it would.

great advice right here. race cam?

what are your intentions for the car?? if it is solely a street car be prepared for some headaches as the power level goes up. if it is going to be a street car that goes to a strip a few times a year why not build a more street friendly power plant and hit it with some nitrous?
 
the newer 440's have cast cranks and dismal compression. I have heard all the speculation about the block as well. I wouldnt be afraid to run one. I would find a forged crank and rods though. 450hp is very very easy with that many cubes. all you need is a mild cam, 4 barrel duel plane intake and a 750 carb and about any off the shelf headers. that is with a rebuild and 9.5 compression. there are all kinds of off the shelf pistons for the 440. a set of 452 heads with bigger valves or a set of 906's would get you your 450hp all day long.

500hp is getting more radical. if your a beginner or just learning about building performance engines i would highly recommend running a single carb. i see alot of duel 4 cars at the track that run like **** because they cant get them tuned correctly. with any performance build i would have the block sonic checked and magnafluxed prior to boring. what are the specs. on your "race" cam? building an engine that performs well is all about the combo. the parts have to compliment eachother or it will just be a fancy looking expensive dog. trust me on this. just because you spent alot of money on a part doesnt mean its gonna work with your combo. i have been learning this the hard way. I have a low compression 383 with a top end that belongs on a 600hp engine. it does ok but it doesnt make as much power as i thought it would.

I know all about tuning the carbs. Not a beginner but i wanted some clarification on what i have been hearing about the newer 440s. This will be my first 440 build. I appreciate you're info and advise. I've done many six packs on the 340. I thought about going with the 383, but i decided on this 440 with 452 heads. And trust me, I've learned the hard way that price tag means nothing.
 
I would just have the block checked prior to boring and I would insist on a forged steel crank at a minimum. the cast crank isnt going to last with a high hp build. Every block is different. I think trying to label it as good or bad by the casting date is just guessing. I would just have it checked and then build my engine. 500 hp with a decent set of heads is an easy goal to achieve. I dont think you will make it with stock 452 heads but with some port work and larger valves you can get there.
 
Like I
I would just have the block checked prior to boring and I would insist on a forged steel crank at a minimum. the cast crank isnt going to last with a high hp build. Every block is different. I think trying to label it as good or bad by the casting date is just guessing. I would just have it checked and then build my engine. 500 hp with a decent set of heads is an easy goal to achieve. I dont think you will make it with stock 452 heads but with some port work and larger valves you can get there.

Hey I appreciate it dude. I use my phone to use this forum and I'm sorry for all the typos. Wasn't sure why everyone was asking... Race cam? I meant to type Lunati cam. I never check my Swype texts like I should. Appreciate the good advise.
 
If anyone knows the truth about whether or not Chrysler used thinner block walls in the 440s made in late 70s, I'd love to hear a good discussion about these big blocks. Thank you
 
It is bunk. I have a 74 440 block and a 78. I'd rather build a 75+ block for performance. Thicker main webbings, beefier mounting ears. The thin wall stuff comes from the dog bone shaped cooling passages, instead of smaller round passages. Get it checked out and go. I have also read the cast cranks are good up to 550-600hp with proper oiling.

If you do decide on a forged crank, I'd just opt for a stroker kit. You'll be in for new pistons, new crank, and at very leat resizing rods and upgrading the bolts anyway. That would get you 500+ cubes making 500 HP much easier and better manners.
 
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