Burning up pushrods!
- Thread starter SSG_Karg
- Start date
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PRH
Well-Known Member
I may be mistaken, but I think Mike at B3 was involved with the rocker set up on the OP’s heads.
Now that I think about it, Steve Morris uses a cup pushrod and pushrod oiling so it can be done.
He would still need to keep the shaft oiling because he can’t oil through the adjuster.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Agreed.
As I said…… just add the pushrod oiling.
It will basically dead head at the adjuster screw, and just run back down the pushrod.
If the lifters have the provision for it, the oil is already leaking around the pushrod/lifter interface.
Might as well pump it to the top.
As I said…… just add the pushrod oiling.
It will basically dead head at the adjuster screw, and just run back down the pushrod.
If the lifters have the provision for it, the oil is already leaking around the pushrod/lifter interface.
Might as well pump it to the top.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Thanks for the idea but Mike has already worked his magic on these. The geometry has been tweaked and I would think that a cup style adjuster would make my problem worse because it would act like an umbrella. I’m not using pushrod oiling.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
That’s a thought but will require disassembly of basically the entire engine and purchasing new lifters, pushrods, and adjusters. Trying to avoid that situation if possible.
I’m still leaning towards the cups being too tight on the balls and not allowing oil to get under the ball.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I’m surprised by that, even more reason to call him. But it’s likely because you’re using a paddle style rocker. With rollers you can’t get the geometry on the pushrod side correct with a ball adjuster.
PRH
Well-Known Member
You got me on that one.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I didn’t realize you had the tubes in the block.
If your lifters were pushrod oiling capable(and no tubes in the block), my suggested solution was to replace only the pushrods with a set that thru oiled.
Looks like that’s not an option.
9secRR
Well-Known Member
i experienced the same thing, burn the tips. X block that was tubed, W2 heads, Mopar blue rockers, roller cam.
i think the problem is at start up. i took the valve covers off and squirted oil on the pushrod and rocker every time i did a cold start. never had another burnt tip. might not be the problem but it worked for me.
i think the problem is at start up. i took the valve covers off and squirted oil on the pushrod and rocker every time i did a cold start. never had another burnt tip. might not be the problem but it worked for me.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Here is how I would approach this, I would get a set of adjusters that have an oil band, as well as an oil through hole, I would block the oil at the top of the adjuster (tig weld, pressed lead shot, etc) and force the oil down. Then I would drill the rocker (this will be hard) to intersect the oil band on the adjuster as well as the shaft. You’ll likely have to drill through adjuster side of the rocker completely and then block outside but it would oil the cup/pushrod directly with shaft oil.
I agree, except that I would just drill through the rocker bush walls and not the outer wall of the adjuster boss, then fit a new bush. The adjuster oil hole would need to be predrilled in the bush and aligned when installing it in the rocker. The bush will block the unwanted holes for max pressure to the adjuster groove.
PRH
Well-Known Member
If the OP has access to a “scrap” stock type valve cover, I’d suggest cutting the top off it, and running the engine with it installed.
This way you could get a good look at how much flow there is at the pushrods at low engine speeds.
This way you could get a good look at how much flow there is at the pushrods at low engine speeds.
The other thing he can do, and I did and I always forget to mention is is give the rockers full time oil.
I pull the oil off the oil pressure gauge gallery so it’s not taking oil from the mains.
The problem is you really need to block the oil to the heads at the cam bearing, and thats hard to do with the engine together.
I’ll see if I can find some pictures of how I do it.
I pull the oil off the oil pressure gauge gallery so it’s not taking oil from the mains.
The problem is you really need to block the oil to the heads at the cam bearing, and thats hard to do with the engine together.
I’ll see if I can find some pictures of how I do it.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
This is how I do it. Either way works and TT’s way can be done much easier.
At this point I wouldn’t worry about stopping the oil coming up from the cam. I’d just leave that open and give it full time oiling.
Which reminds me. Most roller cam cores have a groove around the 2 and 4 cam bearings to give them full time oil.
The problem is it do add a lot of oil.
And I forgot to mention that under the rocker shaft I use a brass set screw with an .080ish hoke to restrict the flow.
That’s for bushed or aluminum rockers.
If you have needle bearing rockers you can cut that down to .060 or a skosh more.
if the ball is tight in the p'rod socket......
Use a Dremel cut off wheel to grind a thin slot down the side of the ball where the ball diam is largest. That will let oil into the ball/socket interface.
Use a Dremel cut off wheel to grind a thin slot down the side of the ball where the ball diam is largest. That will let oil into the ball/socket interface.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Already been said to try an oil through pr.
Op's lifters don't oil through.
Next.
Op's lifters don't oil through.
Next.
Alfajim
Well-Known Member
Another way to do it is to use the but grinding side of a valve machine to grind off about .040" - .060" from the top of the pushrod cup use a dremmel with a small abrasive stone to grind a bevel on the inside of the cup bevel the out side so it is not sharp. the top half of the cup is not actually used for push load it's all on the bottom of the ball and socket.
What is the actual rocker geometry I asked that in another thread, the push rod geometry will be wrong if the rocker geometry is wrong for the rocker to valve for the lift used. The rocker geometry has to be set first before push rod length is determined.
Pushrod oiling with cup.
In the absence of pushrod oiling, see pictures of MP pushrods how much wider the cup is to catch oil.
I would also groove your rocker bushings to guide oil to where the rocker arm oiling hole is. The shaft hole is not in the right place on the MP type shafts- not far enough over to where the adjuster is.
In the absence of pushrod oiling, see pictures of MP pushrods how much wider the cup is to catch oil.
I would also groove your rocker bushings to guide oil to where the rocker arm oiling hole is. The shaft hole is not in the right place on the MP type shafts- not far enough over to where the adjuster is.
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Alfajim
Well-Known Member
The cup is to deep for the adjuster the top two pictures show the top of the cup is contacting the adjuster screw creating excessive heat. Shorten the cup to below the damaged area so the screw is only contacting the socket and not the top edge.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
This may be a good test to see if that’s the right track. Probably not a long term solution but it might tell me if the cup is too tight.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
You need to find a way to get pressurized oil to the pushrod/cup interface, even if the cup is too tight for the ball and you fix that. With your spring pressure it will only help. See post 62 and 63 for the way to get there.
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