Man, those look so snug, it looks like 3/8" adjuster balls in 5/16" pushrod cups.....which would create a narrow ring of surface contact & a lot of heat. I agree with facilitating constant oil supply to the shafts.
Burning up pushrods!
- Thread starter SSG_Karg
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A nice clean way to do it. Has to be accurate of course, but there’s two rocker shafts right there at the rockers with pressurised oil to utilise.
Love when someone tries to help and gets shat on here.... daily...
Mr. Sinister
Devastation Manager/ Exposer of Lies
I see it like this.
Ask for help read the replies, evaluate what you have and have not done and try what sounds like the best advice. Because even the world’s best cardiologist can’t perform heart surgery over the phone…. and he works on them while they are running. JM2C
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Perhaps I was a bit curt with Mike, but considering my frustration with this problem and the fact that the possible causes he suggested were clearly covered in my original post, makes me think he simply did not read it or lightly skimmed it and just looked at the pictures.
Call me crazy but if I’m going to suggest something to a member asking for help, I’m going to thoroughly read all the information posted and make an educated guess on a solution based on personal experience. Making suggestions without considering all the information is a good way to lead someone down the wrong path inadvertently.
I’m sure Mike was just preoccupied watching his game, as he stated. And I know he is very knowledgeable and proficient, but I don’t think I got his best answer.
As for you sir, @dadsbee, thank you for taking some time out of your day to call me out for “shitting” on someone, effectively “shitting” on me.
☆☆☆☆☆
Alfajim
Well-Known Member
Thats why after seeing the damage to the pushrod cups in #72 I recommended taking .060" off the top of the cup there is no good reason that the whole adjuster screw ball needs to be buried in the cup, if only the lower half is in the cup that should suffice. The only reason I can think of for all in the cup is to keep the pushrod from dislodging if the valves are floated, even if only the lower half is in the cup when the valves are floated that much either the valve is stuck into the piston or stem is bent and of cam lobe & lifter destructed in which case it doesn't matter then.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
WOW!!! They are proud of those things. I can’t hardly justify $500 for adjusters.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
I called Smith Brothers yesterday and had a nice conversation with a friendly fellow. Unfortunately he said he has never seen or heard of this problem before and they have done plenty of ball/cup rods. He suggested that I try a different set of adjusters in case by some weird chance mine are a touch oversized. I don’t know, I think if anything the pushrod cup is too small.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Might try this first before spending any more money.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
PRW has them much much cheaper. The set I bought for my w2 motor was $88.00. Mine don’t have the oil band I suggested you use, but if you search their site you’ll find em.
https://www.prwpower.com/prw-adjuster-screw-kit-1205230/p2698
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I wouldn’t. You risk breaking the pushrod. And if you do that you risk damaging more of the engine. You need pressurized oil at the cup/ball. Do it once, do it right, and solve the problem.
PRH
Well-Known Member
The ball and cup should be basically the same size/shape.
There should be a fairly broad area of contact between the two, so as to spread out the load.
A wear pattern interface test could be done with some lapping compound to see how broad the contact area is.
There should be a fairly broad area of contact between the two, so as to spread out the load.
A wear pattern interface test could be done with some lapping compound to see how broad the contact area is.
I never would either, but there are guys out there building some high end builds that would.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Bummer, they don’t have what I need anyway. My rockers take 3/8-24 and the pushrod cups are 5/16. Must be an oddball.
I found them at Mancini for about double the PRW price.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Priming the pump.
Notice that all rockers that are closed are flowing lots of oil. #1E, #5I, and #7I are open. 1 and 7 are not flowing because the holes aren’t lined up with the shaft holes but oddly 5 is flowing.
Notice that all rockers that are closed are flowing lots of oil. #1E, #5I, and #7I are open. 1 and 7 are not flowing because the holes aren’t lined up with the shaft holes but oddly 5 is flowing.
That is strangely odd 5 is that far off the seat and oiling.
I’m not sure how that can happen unless the shaft is grooved or the hole is that far off.
BTW and FWIW I always thought it would be a great idea if you could get full time oiling to the adjuster.
It wouldn’t get any oil to the cup while the valve is open but the oil would be cooling the adjuster.
The bad thing would be more oil up top.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I have to say, I’m pretty surprised at the amount of oil coming out of the rockers(for you to be burning up pushrods).
Are any of the adjusters/pushrods not showing signs of heat?
(Some look okay in the vid)
Are the 2&4 cam journals grooved for full time oiling to the top?
Are any of the adjusters/pushrods not showing signs of heat?
(Some look okay in the vid)
Are the 2&4 cam journals grooved for full time oiling to the top?
It used to be all solid rollers had grooved cam journals.
In the last couple of years I’ve seen several that were not grooved and I was surprised by that.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
I know!!! That’s why this is driving me insane. And when I took that video the timed oil holes in the cam weren’t perfectly lined up. I bumped the crank ahead a whisker more and even MORE OIL was coming out.
Not really. They all show signs of varying degrees of heat.
No. But I am considering making modifications to add full time oiling to the rockers. I’m leaning toward the external oil lines coming off the pressure gauge port in the back. That would allow me to leave the engine in the car and just pull the heads off for drilling/tapping.
When I do full time oil that’s where I pick up the oil. I block off all the oil coming up from the cam bearings.
I also do the plumbing internally. Although it’s rare an external hose failed puts all that oil on the ground.
I try and keep it inside.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Lined up better.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Who did the valve job and set up on the heads? Can you drop a straight edge across those valves and be within .010 or so of each other? Have you already pulled out an adjuster and have taken a picture and posted it?
one of the first things I noticed is that your adjusters are kind of all over the place. You have some where it looks like to push rods a bit too long, or your valve stem Heights are all over the place.
Let's see the no. 5 rocker arm off the shaft, the bore.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Mike @ B3 did the setup. #5E is a couple thou high but the rest are dead nuts.
I think it looks that way because these are a set of bastardized rockers. At least 3 different brands that are all slightly different castings. The exhaust rockers are all the same but the 2 left intakes and 2 right intakes are different manufacturers. Also two different types of adjusters.
Impossible to get a good picture of that because of the glare, but it looks good to me.
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