Burnt shifter cable today

[Fisher]

It is wedged in there and will not come out. i and going to grab some good bolt cutters and cut the cable try to drive it back down through the hole.

 

[Fisher]

well three cut later with a zip disc and its out.

 

[thesiren74]

Route the cable to the passenger side in front bellhousing ,secure it to the dust sheild bolt holes with wire loops or whatever they are called and your done!

 

[Ironracer]

Not sure how that particular cable routes, I like my Cheetah because of the cable routing.

When I had my Hurst Promatic in the car, I went to NAPA and bought some of that high heat silcone hose and slid that over the cable where it was close to the exhaust, no problems.

It's pricey, about a 6 bucks a foot, but 3 feet should be enough. The guy at the parts store said it wouldn't burn, and I thought, yeah right. I guarantee you it won't burn, when I brought it home I tried burning the end with my oxy acetylene torch and no dice.

I also have a short piece on my starter cable where it is close to the header.

I just pick some of that up. I won't mention the name of United Speed World because they ripped me off on a set of heads. I have limited knowledge, I'm. Not a Machinist. But I I've been doing this for a while and I'm not a dumbass. So,if you're going to magnaflux a set of heads, put new valve stem seals, do a valve job and charge someone 4 hundred bucks for it, when you get your heads back and you decide to buy your own valve spring compressor and do your own valve spring upgrade (once you choose a cam) and you start taking stuff apart, you see Carbon on the valves, and old valve seals it makes you wonder... sorry, I got off topic there, (over 10 years ago, still pissed, I guess,,) anyhow I got some collector gaskets and some of that but I remember reading a post by someone that said, they even though they used that silicone wrap, it burned the cable right through that, but didn't damage the wrap

 

[Ironracer]

Route the cable to the passenger side in front bellhousing ,secure it to the dust sheild bolt holes with wire loops or whatever they are called and your done!

Dig that! Maybe I didn't try hard enough it didn't seem like the cable would go down into the right over the bellhousing and under

 

[RustyRatRod]

Did the same darn thing Fisher, went out for a jaunt, parked in the driveway with it shut off for 10 minutes, came back out to move into garage and shifter would barely move. I have small block with 1 7/8 TTI's. I do have a mini starter and the B and M shifter came with a pretty long cable. I got a shorter cable from Summit and was able to route it better. I also put some heat resistant sheathing around the cable. I hear you, it is a trick. The second time I probably spent 5 hours getting everything correct. I think I even made a small solid bracket to hold it off of the headers. Good Luck!

Generally speakin, shift cables don't like headers.

 

[Ironracer]

Well turbo action shifter it is. I have to drop the exhaust and the trans to get the damn shifter cable out. Since i am going to this length i am not going to go through this again with this B&M crap.

I miss the affordability and availability of the A-833s back in the day that they just plain out kick *** man!

 

[Ironracer]

Generally speakin, shift cables don't like headers.

I got that one on! Hurst says maintain 1.5" from the headers. I wonder how much leeway they're giving you or if I should go out of my way to make sure it's a bigger Gap than that. I got a couple feet of this silver crap is supposed to be rated for 2000°

 

[RustyRatRod]

I got that one on! Hurst says maintain 1.5" from the headers. I wonder how much leeway they're giving you or if I should go out of my way to make sure it's a bigger Gap than that. I got a couple feet of this silver crap is supposed to be rated for 2000°

I don't see what all the hubub is about. It's simple really. Route things that'll melt or burn well away from headers. It's a tight fit, but people have done it for decades.

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

well i was lucky to get the car home, but it would appear that i have burnt the shifter cable all to **** against the TTI headers. 71 Big block duster, 727 trans B&M shifter. Debating whether or not to order the longer cable? is there a particular route or secret to this? I had clamped the cable away from the exhaust with a bracket and bolt from the oil pan, i guess that didnt work.

I think B&M makes their big money on cable sales.

 

[famous bob]

That's why I like my Cheetah, the cable goes through the hump, turns down along the right side of the trans and loops back to the bracket/selector point on the trans.

^^^agree, same way on mine , but I insulated it anyway upon initial install, 10 yrs so far.