Buying an 8-3/4 rear end and need opinions

Good rear end to buy?

  • Yes

    Votes: 14 87.5%
  • No

    Votes: 2 12.5%

  • Total voters
    16
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1970boy

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Im buying an 8-3/4 a body rear end of craigs and wanted some opinions. Im not sure what these cost but im able to get one for a $100 is this a good deal for the condition of the rear end

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It depends what year, what case, what gears, SG or not, and what car it came out of.
 
If the axle in the pic is the one it seems pretty wide for an A body. It looks like an E or C body and those look like 10x2.5 brakes
 
Upside down in photo, so based on that & spring perch location (top) it is from a truck or van.

Trucks typically have lower gears than cars & vans could go either way.

Worth checking into, a clutch style sure grip is any easy 300 hundred bucks.
 
If its a true A body 8 3/4 you should be running to the guys house.

But with my trained eye, that is to wide to be for an A body.
 
Upside down in photo, so based on that & spring perch location (top) it is from a truck or van.

Trucks typically have lower gears than cars & vans could go either way.

Worth checking into, a clutch style sure grip is any easy 300 hundred bucks.

What he said, it's out of a truck or van because the perches are on the top.

That said, for $100 it's already worth it. The brakes are worth that much, let alone the 3rd member. An A-body rear end that complete and in that condition would going for $500 or more.
 
Might be flushing 100.00. SG would be nice for 100.00. If working condition and IMO not cone type.
 
What he said, it's out of a truck or van because the perches are on the top.

That said, for $100 it's already worth it. The brakes are worth that much, let alone the 3rd member. An A-body rear end that complete and in that condition would going for $500 or more.
All true but prob. not going into a A body. If it does, not a bolt in project.
 
All true but prob. not going into a A body. If it does, not a bolt in project.

No but for $100? You can probably have it shortened and the axles shortened and re-splined for $400 or close to it.

And regardless, find a 3rd member for $100. That's a freeway geared, open 3rd member price. If it's out of a truck or van it's probably at least a 3.23 or 3.55, and if it spins freely even an open rear with those gears is worth that much or more. Even if you don't use the axles or housing you can make a profit on the 3rd member and brakes. Look at what a loaded set of 10x2.5" brakes goes for on eBay. It's over $100.

I'd have bought it already, no questions asked. Pick-n-Pull would charge over $160 for that thing, and that's a good deal. The 3rd member in my Duster right now is a 3.55 742 out of a D100 8 3/4 I bought complete at Pick-n-Pull. But I suppose I can weld and have a axle housing jig so it's a no brainer. It's a good thing it's not near Sacramento.
 
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No but for $100? You can probably have it shortened and the axles shortened and re-splined for $400 or close to it.

And regardless, find a 3rd member for $100. That's a freeway geared, open 3rd member price. If it's out of a truck or van it's probably 3.23 or 3.55, and if it spins freely even an open rear with those gears is worth that much or more. Even if you don't use the axles or housing you can make a profit on the 3rd member and brakes. Look at what a loaded set of 10x2.5" brakes goes for on eBay. It's over $100.

I'd have bought it already, no questions asked. Pick-n-Pull would charge over $160 for that thing, and that's a good deal. The 3rd member in my Duster right now is a 3.55 742 out of a D100 8 3/4 I bought complete at Pick-n-Pull. But I suppose I can weld and have a axle housing jig so it's a no brainer. It's a good thing it's not near Sacramento.
Agree with all you said. But I guess it depends on what the OP is looking for. Not everyone has the capacity, or will to resale parts, To me I would have it already.
 
also which case is the more desirable? i know the 489 is pretty much the standard sought after but isnt there a more desirable third memeber?
 
also which case is the more desirable? i know the 489 is pretty much the standard sought after but isnt there a more desirable third memeber?

Not really. You can argue back and forth about whether or not the 742 or the 489 is the stronger case but really you're splitting hairs to say one is better than the other. I like the 742's because they don't have a crush sleeve, you can install a crush sleeve eliminator in the 489's though. But you'd have to install one. And I haven't had a 3rd member rebuilt yet, everything I've run was original in the car when I bought it or swapped in straight from the wrecking yard or swap meet.

So between the 742 and the 489 I would say it's really just preference. The 741 isn't as strong, but if you're talking about a street car you probably won't even hurt one of those unless you're running big horsepower or drag radials.
 
also which case is the more desirable? i know the 489 is pretty much the standard sought after but isnt there a more desirable third memeber?
The 489 has a stronger pinion gear, or it seems so. I have not actually checked any to failure.
 
Not really. You can argue back and forth about whether or not the 742 or the 489 is the stronger case but really you're splitting hairs to say one is better than the other. I like the 742's because they don't have a crush sleeve, you can install a crush sleeve eliminator in the 489's though. But you'd have to install one. And I haven't had a 3rd member rebuilt yet, everything I've run was original in the car when I bought it or swapped in straight from the wrecking yard or swap meet.

So between the 742 and the 489 I would say it's really just preference. The 741 isn't as strong, but if you're talking about a street car you probably won't even hurt one of those unless you're running big horsepower or drag radials.
i was just curious. its been awhile since i had to deal with the cases. wasnt the 742or the 489 out of the hemi/BB cars or am i thinking incorrectly? cant remember lol
 
All the guts inside the case are the same between any cone-type
The only strength difference is in the actual pinion stem and or it's root. In a streeter with street tires it's kindof moot; run whatcha got.
Make sure the SG is tight, cuz if you peg-leg it too long the x-pin will either come out the back (a good thing) or more than likely jam up the works, and lock up the whole rear end. When that happens at speed, you are in for an exciting ride!
 
742 & 489 were both used in Hemi cars, the 489 was 'new' to the scene sometime in 1969.
 
The 489 has a stronger pinion gear, or it seems so. I have not actually checked any to failure.

But see, that's a point of debate. The 742 has a 1 3/4" pinion, the 489 has a 1 7/8". But, the 489 has a tapered pinion, the whole thing isn't 1 7/8", that's just the largest diameter. The 742 does not have a taper, the whole thing is 1 3/4". Really I think they're pretty much the same for strength, it's splitting hairs.

And then there's the sure grip, the 489's are pretty much all cone type sure grips except for the '69 model year 489's. The 742's are primarily clutch type SG's.
 
the clutch type are more desired correct?
i know thats what i put back in my 8 3/4 reccomended by the good ole folks here on FABO
 
the clutch type are more desired correct?
i know thats what i put back in my 8 3/4 reccomended by the good ole folks here on FABO

Yes, the clutch types are generally more desired as they can be rebuilt and therefore pretty much last forever, they just need the clutches changed out. The cone style SG's can't really be fully rebuilt, although there are some things you can do to them to service them when they start to wear. They probably get a worse reputation than they deserve, especially given the number of miles most people drive their classics (ie, such low miles even the cone style SG's will last forever).
 
Me too, I'd pick up any housing for $100. Of course I'd cut it and make it fit whatever was needed.
 
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