Buying new vehicle, any tips advice??

[4spdragtop]

Well Lori and I may be forced to purchase another car. Her car has 400k on it, with mostly all orig suspension. It's an 07 KIA Spectra and has been a GREAT car. Her commute is 2 hours a day EACH way. So we are wrestling with the idea of a new car versus a good used.

Also leaning toward new KIA Forte. LX or EX. 2.0 litre auto. 7 years 0% financing. 5 years/100 km warranty. You can purchase additional warranty to double so its 10years/200km. BUT I need to request a price breakdown of services required to stay "within warranty" between 100k and 200k. Purchase price on ext warranty is approx $2500

The questions/advice Im looking for is NOT in regards to specific brands, but more for negotiating tactics. It seems now a days that dealerships dont give much price breaks. Im just trying to think of something to get as a "throw-in".

Here is what I have come up with so far.
Plain steel rims with winter tires
block heater(not std equipment here)
Free oil changes/service for a year

This isnt a "brand" question, but more for negotiating tactics

Oh the KIA Forte works out to about $300 month financed, and would be approx $100/month in fuel savings. So tech. $200 bucks a month

Thanks
Steve

 

[abodyjoe]

you are going to get a million different opinions on your question.. some will work some just don't work.

best i can tell you is do your homework on the specific car you are looking at. know what the dealer pays for it, know the msrp, know every option and that options cost and go from there..

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks Joe, is it possible to get a copy of true dealer invoice to see what they actually pay??
I know there may be tons of opinions but I guess Im looking for ideas as to what got "thrown in" on their new purchase.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah. Don't do it. Get one two years old.

 

[abodyjoe]

edmunds used to have it listed. not sure if they still do. back before that infor was on the net edmunds had a little book. that baby was within a few cents of what the dealer paid.. i was amazed.

 

[cannucky]

Steve since she put 400k in 7 years I would suggest trying to buy an extended mileage only waranty , she probably will need another car before 10 years so there's really no point buying term like that , try to get them to warranty the 7 years of financing plus extending the mileage to 200k or some sort of package similar to that , you might also shoot for a heated driver seat to keep it warm while your away eh LOL .Oh and buy a lot leftover 2013 if you can , the 15s will be going into production in a couple of months so march is usually pretty good for deals on old stock , I've seen new old stock go for the same as low mileage lease returns around here , for example the 2011 chally rt I looked at in March2012 for 26k was a lot leftover and 16k under sticker with full warranty .

 

[4spdragtop]

edmunds used to have it listed. not sure if they still do. back before that infor was on the net edmunds had a little book. that baby was within a few cents of what the dealer paid.. i was amazed.

Thanks Joe, checking Edmunds website out now.

 

[diymirage]

if you are looking at one car and one car only look to see if you may be located in between dealers and check both lots
like cannucky said, last years model might be a better deal

most importantly find a dealer you like
I walked into one dealership one day (wont say what brand to stay out of the lynch mobs) and I was looking at a second hand navigator and it had a cracked cover around the gear shifter
I told the guy it needed to get fixed because with my 3 year old who know what would disappear in there and his reply was "how often does your 3 year old ride in the front seat?"
that was the end of that conversation

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks guys
Cannucky/Chris I was thinking the same thing, but salesmen "pointed" this out....at the end you lose more on trade-in because the car is one year older??

DM, good points on finding the next closest dealership and finding one you like

 

[Oklacarcollecto]

Steve, If things haven't changed, all dealers pay the same amount for the same car and even though they will show your their invoice but that really isn't the true price that they will end up paying. There is a 3% to 5% holdback that the manufacturers send back to the dealers every quarter and this number will appear on no paperwork that you will ever see.

The dealer I always dealt with would sell me a vehicle at his dealer cost because they were going to get the holdback and more sales upped his percentage. I always special ordered mine so they would have no holding costs that I would end up paying for in the end.

 

[Oklacarcollecto]

Thanks guys
Cannucky/Chris I was thinking the same thing, but salesmen "pointed" this out....at the end you lose more on trade-in because the car is one year older??

DM, good points on finding the next closest dealership and finding one you like

He is wrong because the over mileage deduction will be a lot higher on a one year newer car. If she didn't drive two hours a day, then he would be right.

 

[67cudafb]

Two hour commute are you s$$ting me. Instead of a new car I would move!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[krazykuda]

They tell you that they are giving it to you at "invoice", but they are lying....


Just like that "little sheet" that all the used car salesmen carry that has all of the cars and pricing. They tell you, "I'm not supposed to show you this..." but they show EVERYBODY...

That's because those are not the real numbers that they tell you they are. They will also rip you off on a lease if you don't know what you are doing. My bro sold used cars for a while, he said that they really socked it to the "clueless chumps" that didn't know better especially on the leases...


They also like to make you wait while they "check with the manager" when you make an offer. They aren't checking with anyone, they are just making you wait. They wear you down so you just pay what they want just so you can get out of there after making you wait, and wait, and wait, and wait, and wait.....


Listen to this guy after the 3:00 minutes when he talks about buying a car...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3TdpaoQ1Og"]Richard Jeni In Hawaii 1995 Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Oklacarcollecto]

These are based off a 400km car if it was in my area. The extra mileage deduction for one year difference is $340 so the total difference is $630 on a clean car on the retail market.

Clean trade in is $510 difference.

Average trade in is $485 difference.

 

[Chuckman]

I never trade, all they do is price your trade out of the reduction you would get for paying cash. AND DON'T BE AFRAID TO WALK AWAY. YOU'LL BE SUPRISE HOW FAST YOUR PHONE WILL RING WITH A "BETTER" OFFER.

 

[Woods74]

Yeah. Don't do it. Get one two years old.

Yup. You loose thousands just driving it off the lot new.

 

[65BCODA]

I've negotiated lifetime oil changes on two seperate vehicles, an 01 and 02 needless to say the dealership knows our vehicles very well.

 

[4spdragtop]

Yeah. Don't do it. Get one two years old.

I hear ya Rob, that is what I was thinking, BUT financing rates new vs used are way different. I would have to sit down and crunch numbers to see what the difference works out to over the financing term.

He is wrong because the over mileage deduction will be a lot higher on a one year newer car. If she didn't drive two hours a day, then he would be right.

Thanks for the info Bill. Not really much difference at all over 1 model year.

Two hour commute are you s$$ting me. Instead of a new car I would move!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I wish I was shitting you. Im 2 provinces from home, so moving is NOT an option right now. As soon as I land a position in my field back in Ontario, THAT is the plan.

I've negotiated lifetime oil changes on two seperate vehicles, an 01 and 02 needless to say the dealership knows our vehicles very well.

Yep, I figger there is negligible costs involved for the dealership to swallow to get a sale.

Thanks all, keep the advice coming!

 

[kazooom]

The Snow tires & wheels are a good idea... If your stuck on buying new the best way to negotiate is to plan on going to the dealer at least 3 times. First time have a look and a test drive and express interest. Ask what the best bottom line price will be ( dont sit down or sign anything) go home. Next time in have another look at the car and sit down to haggle. Tell them your going to haggle for the best all in price. Once you get that price walk away and tell them to sharpen their pencil and give you a call... Spend some time on this as its alot of money your going to spend. Salesmen know they have 3 days or less to sell you the car or they have lost you.. make em work for it

have fun Steve and good luck buddy

 

[mopar head]

Just hand the salesman this and bend over
Well I cant upload that pic of vasaline for nothing

 

[krazykuda]

When you make an offer, show them a nice stack of $100 bills.

Give them a lowball and when they reject it, pick up your cash off his desk and walk out.


They hate to see money walk out the door....

 

[grassy]

400 k miles on a kia? ...w/o problems... You are the first to say that.. Crumbs, the car should be bronzed..

I have a list that is ling as my arm from friends thought they were getting a "good deal" with a kia...

Wow !

 

[cannucky]

Steve , Bill hit the nail on the head at 400k your not getting squat for trade because they have to crush it , nobody is buying that car at the auction , the model year means nothing at that point , as for the 2 year old lease return well my ex sold chivy's in Michigan and lease returns aren't exactly pampered mechanically by the leasee , they know they are turning it back in and only care about the appearance ,they are only a good deal if you know the dealer personally and he throws if the fixes when he sell ie.. we bought a 94 Monte Carlo from her work because she sold it new and knew the people who turned it in, the GM 6cyls have timing chain issues at 80k and that year was known to have strut problems as well so we made new struts , timing chain , full exhaust with new O2 sensor and a 4 wheel brake job part of the deal , the car rotted out from the inside but never stopped running . As an example of discounts the local paper has leftover 2013 Dodge Ram 1500s in it today at 16k for the 2wd club cab with the small rear doors , sat radio etc etc and 26.5k for the bigger 4x4 crew cab , both of them are Hemi trucks with the toys in em . Like Kazoom said don't ever buy on the first visit , and don't lose sight of the fact that this is basic transportation and will be worthless when your done with it . Kia has had some pretty good products over the years and some real turds as well so make sure you check with the buyers guides and google the list of worst trade in vehicles because it will tell you why the dealers don't want em such as bad tranny's etc ....

 

[grassy]

..the rule of thumb on this side of the country that when a car hits 100K kms..that there is little trade in value (unless it is for a "drag in anything: promotion) ..and anything above 75K kms gets wholesaled off immediately by the dealers...

...we are very high mileage drivers...we don't think in terms of trade ins.. we try to buy the longest term warranties in time and not mileage..and we bite the bullet and pay cash unless these are deals (the rbc doe this sometimes) like loan forgiven if vehicle written off..once you are by that, pay it off...it is amazing how much you pay in interest...and you always get the best price with cash and no trade in..

just as a comment...BMW is doing crazy deals with their 3 series...

 

[Russ H]

Steve,

I have been car shopping too. I'm looking at 2011/2013/2014 Low mileage Jeep Grand Cherokee's. I am finding many with less than 15,000 miles and a very significant savings, thousands less than a new one. They are out there, you just have to look. The remainder of the factory warranty is passed on to the next owner.

Also, my brother in law has sold cars all his life. His advice to me while car shopping is this. Upon walking into the dealership and after a specific car is decided upon. Show the salesperson your watch and tell him he has 20 minutes of your time to come up with his best price. When the 20 minutes pass by, get up and walk. In most cases the salesman will chase you out into the parking lot. Keep going but tell him you are not going to allow him to waste anymore of your time and to call you when he can give the best price, then leave. In most cases you will be contacted with a better deal in the next day or 2. I have tried this tactic and in most cases it worked.

Good luck,

Russ