bypassing ballast resistor?

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74slnt6

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I have 440 sources ( now discontinued ) pertronix Hei style distributor for my 440. I will be going to use the ignition box located on the distributor. for this to work, the dist has to have a 12 volt source. I plan on using the same wiring as the slant six, just to keep it simple. I still have all the wiring hooked up, I just need to bypass the ballast. It is a 4 prong style ballast for a 74. whats the best way to bypass the ballast? cut and spice? remove the ballast and just bridge the two old connectors? Sorry for the stupid questions, im not to familiar with any electrical yet.
 
74slnt6 said:
I have 440 sources ( now discontinued ) pertronix Hei style distributor for my 440. I will be going to use the ignition box located on the distributor. for this to work, the dist has to have a 12 volt source. I plan on using the same wiring as the slant six, just to keep it simple. I still have all the wiring hooked up, I just need to bypass the ballast. It is a 4 prong style ballast for a 74. whats the best way to bypass the ballast? cut and spice? remove the ballast and just bridge the two old connectors? Sorry for the stupid questions, im not to familiar with any electrical yet.
Click to expand...
Well i went though this myself a month or 2 ago, there is a brown AND blue wire that goes to the ballast resister, and you will need them both hooked up or you'll do what I did and have 12 volts either when key is in "start" only or when key is in "run" only, man that messed me up big time. so yes IMO ditch the resister and hook your igntion up to both blue and brown wires that way you will have 12 volts in both keyed ignition positions.
 
thanks for the link!! i will be doing this when my car gets put back together
 
Contrary to what that article states using a stock replacement 4-pin GM module DOES NOT elminate the need for a ballast resistor (the GM module and Mopar module are basically the same inside). You will need a coil that is specifically designed to operate without a ballast like a GM HEI coil. Then again use this coil with a mopar module and you won't need the ballast either. Folks may do it and get away with it but you are over stressing the coil and the laws of probability aren't in your favor.

Some of the current all in one distributors have a module that varies the dwell with rpm (like modern igntions) that do not require the use of a ballast. i don't know about the 440 Sources distributor but is the instructions state to bypass the ballast you should be good to go.
 
it auctually does say that



Things you need:
  • HEI Unit from inside of Distributor
  • Hold down bolts
  • 3 Large female spade terminals
  • 1 Small female spade terminal
  • 2 ring terminals
  • 2 male spade terminals
  • Solder
  • Solder Iron
  • Electrical Tape
  • Red 14 Guage wire
  • Black 14 Guage wire
  • Connector for mopar distributor
  • Non-Resistor Coil ( Aftermarket or Lean-Burn)
 
I had to bypass mine, so I took the guts out of it and put a few connectors on a piece of wire on the inside of it- looks stock.
 
Hi, new here but not to Mopars.
Bought a 73 duster over the weekend, not too bad running basic old car.
The ECM has been leaking the epoxy on the back had been running down the inner fender.
Changed the antifreeze just to prepare it for winter, let it run for about 15-20 minutes and it just reved a little and then quit.
No spark.
Changed the ECM for a old one that I had. No spark.

I had a HEI conversion that I took off my running 71 truck that I wrecked about 2 years ago that was good at the time of removal and. No spark.

There is + voltage on the - side of the coil??????????? no matter how many times the motor is turned.

Is the pickup coil / ignighter in the distributor shorted? Maybe causing the short to the ECM???????

I have a points distributor that I can get the car running on but I want to know what is wrong with what I have.

Sorry so long.
 
sireland67 said:
Hi, new here but not to Mopars.
Bought a 73 duster over the weekend, not too bad running basic old car.
The ECM has been leaking the epoxy on the back had been running down the inner fender.
Changed the antifreeze just to prepare it for winter, let it run for about 15-20 minutes and it just reved a little and then quit.
No spark.
Changed the ECM for a old one that I had. No spark.

I had a HEI conversion that I took off my running 71 truck that I wrecked about 2 years ago that was good at the time of removal and. No spark.

There is + voltage on the - side of the coil??????????? no matter how many times the motor is turned.

Is the pickup coil / ignighter in the distributor shorted? Maybe causing the short to the ECM???????

I have a points distributor that I can get the car running on but I want to know what is wrong with what I have.

Sorry so long.
Click to expand...


Did you ground the HEI module?

Try swapping wires on the pickup coil
 
67Dart273 said:
Did you ground the HEI module?

Try swapping wires on the pickup coil
Click to expand...
The HEI is grounded and the wires were correct, turns out the pickup in the distributor was bad.

Question, the coil I had is an external resistance required.
Do I have to swap it out for a non-resistnce coil?
Thanks
 
You have to becareful with those ditributors. Because of the large diameter cap there may be interference issues with the fire wall. Check your clearance before investing.
 
so if clearance is good, then i can put it in and remove the ignition box ect. correct??
 
Pardon me 74valiant as I am not trying to hi-jack your post but I have that particular HEI which I have in my car and am also trying to figure out which wires I will not be using and if I don't figure it out soon instead of pulling my hair out I will be using the rest of the engine which came with the distributor. ( only joking ) here's a photo
360009.jpg


In this town where I live, Mopar people won't help me cause they say its not Mopar and GM people won't help cause they say its on a Mopar.
 
how is the fit and finish on the distributor? how well does it fit on the motor? how is the firewall clearance? about that dist. was there a wiring chart with the distributor?
 
The fit and finish on the distributor is beautiful

It fit the engine compartment well but mine is a 64 Signet and since I had a smog type stock cast manifold I had to grind away some parts of it so the vacuum advance would clear and the distributor could move. Measure it and figure on the maximum of 3 inches to be sure from the center of the distributor shaft to the firewall

Its only a 2 wire distributor, 1 to the ignition and 1 to tach
 
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