Calling all 67' to 69' barracudas

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cudascott

cudascott

It’s a sickness!
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Heys guys I'm in the process of hanging and aligning the sheet metal
On the barracuda and would like to see some close up pics of the left and right
Fender and door gaps where they meet the cowl and a pillar :prayer:
 
That can be a tough area to get just right.
 

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Yea I'm finding that out,if I get the doors lined with the quarter panels
The gap between the doors and cowl panel are not the same it's a little tighter
on the passenger side. the hood is lined up very good with the cowl
And the hood to fender gaps are good, it's just the gaps at the door and fender
to cowl that are different? By the way your barracuda is awesome!
 
cudascott said:
Yea I'm finding that out,if I get the doors lined with the quarter panels
The gap between the doors and cowl panel are not the same it's a little tighter
on the passenger side. the hood is lined up very good with the cowl
And the hood to fender gaps are good, it's just the gaps at the door and fender
to cowl that are different? By the way your barracuda is awesome!
Click to expand...

That is because the gaps were never the same. Remember, you are dealing with 1968 production tolerances which could be +/-, 1/8".

If you want modern gaps be prepared to add or subtract metal from door or fender edges.

this should all be done well before the painting process.
 
Yea I knew the gaps are never perfect on these cars. Maybe I will load some pics for you guys just so you can see if what I have now is normally what I should expect. I don't want them to be perfect,just as good as I can get them
Thanks for the replies that's why I love FABO so much.
 
here's pics of what I have now
 

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That radius on the cowl and where the fender and door meet it is the fudge point. It aint supposed to be perfect. Get all the vertical lines on the sides and the lines around the hood right including hood to header. Let the fudge points fall where they may.
Otherwise you would have to measure and mark, take it back apart and work the panels to make it perfect and better than it came from the factory.
You may find this interesting too...
If you have a 67 model and change the windsheld or rear window to 68 up stainless trim, That trim will show minor flaws in the adjacent body lines that were never noticed before. The rubber gasket was a lot more forgiving. Lends new definition to 'reveal moulding' huh ?
 
Thanks for the heads up on the trim, it is a 67' and I will be installing the stainless trim and thanks for the help on my original question
 
x2 on what Red said, those lines look pretty good for a cuda to me.

I used the stainless on my fastback. I prefit the reveal moldings and had to do some contouring to get a proper fit. The front was a pretty much a good fit the rear required some work mostly where the lead lines were (tight fit).
 
Yea I have remove a fair amount of lead from those joints at the corners of the rear window (fastback) to level them up i will be fitting them trim once the sheetmeatal is straight and aligned properly. Do the trim clips go as far down against the pinch weld as possible?
 
cudascott said:
Thanks for the heads up on the trim, it is a 67' and I will be installing the stainless trim and thanks for the help on my original question
Click to expand...

I mentioned the header panel earlier because you hadn't. You may need to move one fender forward or back to get the header panel right to the fenders and the hoods edge. There is a little adjustment where the header meets the fender but not a lot.

Hold the A-piilar moulding to the post and check that line and those joints at the sail panel lines too.
Surely you have used reveal mouldings from a 68 or 69. Those will have small blimished discolored ends where they overlapped before. When installed on a 67 they will be pushed a little farther apart ( less overlap ) and expose those blemishes. Polish away the blemishes before installing and you're golden.
 
cudascott said:
Yea I have remove a fair amount of lead from those joints at the corners of the rear window (fastback) to level them up i will be fitting them trim once the sheetmeatal is straight and aligned properly. Do the trim clips go as far down against the pinch weld as possible?
Click to expand...

Depending on what clip you have. I had to grind the aftermarket clips I purchased so they sit low as the factory originals. In other words, Low as they'll go may not be low enough for some clips.
Their isn't a full bed at the bottom of the front window. There are 4 fingers that catch the gasket. Those fingers are on the bed line though so a clip held against that finger would reflect the clip height positioned where they belong.
 
Redfish thanks so much for the replies and the advice on the trim and header panel it's well taken
I have the installed the header panel and the gaps look ok on it also so maybe I'm almost there
 
cudascott said:
Redfish thanks so much for the replies and the advice on the trim and header panel it's well taken
I have the installed the header panel and the gaps look ok on it also so maybe I'm almost there
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You're welcome. Just sharing what I've learned over several years.
Here's one more little tip... Installing the grilles on the car is a chore.
The header panel all bolted in tight becomes quite rigid so all the gaps around the grilles may not want to close.
To paint the header panel off the car will make it much easier to install the grilles and get a good fit. Then hang it as a assembly.
You'll need to tweak the headers bolt ears a little so they dont scratch the fenders on the way in and have a good assistant.
Either method works though. You'll have to decide which is best for you.
 
most definitely x2, I would almost say same with the truck and hood to get good seamless paint coverage in these area's. I collapsed the truck hinges and used a broom stick and the to lock them down and out of the way using the q-pnl's. so much easier to tape off with this down

RedFish said:
To paint the header panel off the car will make it much easier to install the grilles and get a good fit. Then hang it as a assembly.
You'll need to tweak the headers bolt ears a little so they dont scratch the fenders on the way in and have a good assistant.
Click to expand...
 

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Awesome thanks so much for the great advice guys, I sure hope to have
Car in paint by the end of summer, it's been 15 years since I drove this car!
I have a restoration thread started on it titled "67 fastback Barracuda"
I will be updating my progress there. Thanks again
 
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