twayne24365
Well-Known Member
I know all manufactures are a little different, but whats yalls method of breaking in a solid?
Cam break in
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txstang84
Well-Known Member
...I just broke in a Lunati solid cam in a 340 by doing this:
Set cold last to advertised + 0.006" for aluminum heads (0.014" + 0.006")
Ran it at 2500-3200 for 25 minutes immediately after starting with ZDDP additive in Castrol oil.
I didn't get a chance to recheck the lash after we ran it in because I had to hop a plane the next morning...but I recall reading aluminum heads require the lash be opened up .006"
Set cold last to advertised + 0.006" for aluminum heads (0.014" + 0.006")
Ran it at 2500-3200 for 25 minutes immediately after starting with ZDDP additive in Castrol oil.
I didn't get a chance to recheck the lash after we ran it in because I had to hop a plane the next morning...but I recall reading aluminum heads require the lash be opened up .006"
aluminum heads and cast iron block need the lashed tighten up .006 went setting cold....
if lash is .018 and .020....you need .012 and .014 cold with aluminum heads/ cast iron blocks...
if you have a cast iron heads and cast iron blocks you want to set the lash looser...
most important things......prime oil pump....and engine......make sure your carb is good and not dumping raw gas down the intake....get the timing set close enough to get the engine fired without cranking the hell out of it.....engine is not leaking water all over the place...have water hose and sprayer to keep engine cool if needed...keep rpm up ...over 2500 .......dont let it idle...you need about 20 minutes of run time to break in camshaft...
and hopefully you have coated the cam with a moly paste...lifter can have a dap of paste on the bottom of them but the body should only have oil on them...they need to spin in their bores..
if lash is .018 and .020....you need .012 and .014 cold with aluminum heads/ cast iron blocks...
if you have a cast iron heads and cast iron blocks you want to set the lash looser...
most important things......prime oil pump....and engine......make sure your carb is good and not dumping raw gas down the intake....get the timing set close enough to get the engine fired without cranking the hell out of it.....engine is not leaking water all over the place...have water hose and sprayer to keep engine cool if needed...keep rpm up ...over 2500 .......dont let it idle...you need about 20 minutes of run time to break in camshaft...
and hopefully you have coated the cam with a moly paste...lifter can have a dap of paste on the bottom of them but the body should only have oil on them...they need to spin in their bores..
twayne24365
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, last cam i broke in was a 528 purple shaft in a 383, set tge lash loose and kept it at 2500 for 20 min
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Thanks Tony! I guess I got that one bass-ackwards...I'll pass the message to my brother to close up the lash...the cam card calls for .014".
moper
Well-Known Member
I always do it this way, and I built a running stand so I can do it easilly...
1. If you have dual springs (two distinct round-wire springs - one inside the other... not the flat wound dampener) do not install the inner springs when the heads are assembled.
2. Verify all the lifters rotate during assembly - without assembly lube. I use WD40 for this. If they don't all spin, mix n match lifters and bores until they do.
3. I set the lash loose - not tight. I set to hot specs cold. You can't go too wrong with a little extra lash - you can have an issue with not enough.
4. Use a cam paste not a liquid break in lube. I use Crane's. Brush it on the lifter faces and lobes but don't get it on the lifter sides. It can cause lack of rotation upon startup.
5. For any modern fast rate lobe I use break in oil. Gibbs or something similar. Run it for the first break in, and the first 100 miles.
6. Get the engine in, ignition set up, and the carb filled with fuel before hitting the starter button. It has to fire immediately - not turn over and over. And - you have to have enough cooling capacity to not need to stop during this break in.
7. Keep the rpms variable. It has to be high enough to splash oil, but should vary. I go between 1800 and 2300 for 20 minutes.
when it's done, I install the inner springs, re-torque the heads, fire it again, and lash it to hot specs.
I've never lost a flat tappet even though this process has evolved over the years.
1. If you have dual springs (two distinct round-wire springs - one inside the other... not the flat wound dampener) do not install the inner springs when the heads are assembled.
2. Verify all the lifters rotate during assembly - without assembly lube. I use WD40 for this. If they don't all spin, mix n match lifters and bores until they do.
3. I set the lash loose - not tight. I set to hot specs cold. You can't go too wrong with a little extra lash - you can have an issue with not enough.
4. Use a cam paste not a liquid break in lube. I use Crane's. Brush it on the lifter faces and lobes but don't get it on the lifter sides. It can cause lack of rotation upon startup.
5. For any modern fast rate lobe I use break in oil. Gibbs or something similar. Run it for the first break in, and the first 100 miles.
6. Get the engine in, ignition set up, and the carb filled with fuel before hitting the starter button. It has to fire immediately - not turn over and over. And - you have to have enough cooling capacity to not need to stop during this break in.
7. Keep the rpms variable. It has to be high enough to splash oil, but should vary. I go between 1800 and 2300 for 20 minutes.
when it's done, I install the inner springs, re-torque the heads, fire it again, and lash it to hot specs.
I've never lost a flat tappet even though this process has evolved over the years.
twayne24365
Well-Known Member
Thanks, now ill throw another one in here, ill be using the mopar 557 cam which calls for .028 and .032 lash, after its broken in how much tighter can you safely go?
moper
Well-Known Member
I haven't run that one but I've taken out .005" out of other MP solids before to quiet them down a little.
twayne24365
Well-Known Member
I gotcha, i would juat want to tighten them down a little to gain a tad bit of lift back
bOb shingler
Well-Known Member
moper's step #4 is the most important step in breaking in a flat tappet cam.
twayne24365
Well-Known Member
looks like im geeting some cam paste
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