Cam degree..

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Use timing gears, they dont stretch.
I have never installed a cam retarded, you will lose cylinder pressure.
Maybe that's what you want?
I was just thinking backwards in my mind I was thinking advance meaning more but advance is less it's counterintuitive...
I got it I'm going to change it tomorrow..
 
I count 5 1/2-6 threads under the rocker. I would want five less than shown. At 20 threads/inch, thats .050 /thread. Times five would be .250.
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These are the ones that I'm thinking about ordering? Again I'm not sure where they're measuring from..
 
Ya too many threads showing on the rockers. I've used some of the less expensive off the shelf pushrods to correct and had success. Though I never know for sure until I get them and try them for length, and I can measure with a precision caliper. So I usually try to buy a single and check my set up before I buy a set.

My first choice is make my own length I; no Direct Connection unfinished sets anymore and Mancini is out last time I checked. Just bought a few made up sets of Crowers on close out for a screaming deal, but they were burning down their stocks so not much left.
 
Ya too many threads showing on the rockers. I've used some of the less expensive off the shelf pushrods to correct and had success. Though I never know for sure until I get them and try them for length, and I can measure with a precision caliper. So I usually try to buy a single and check my set up before I buy a set.

My first choice is make my own length I; no Direct Connection unfinished sets anymore and Mancini is out last time I checked. Just bought a few made up sets of Crowers on close out for a screaming deal, but they were burning down their stocks so not much left.
Like I said I'll take a swing at this set and if it doesn't work I'll just dial up Smith Brothers..
 
It is hard to say for sure because of the angle of the pic, but if post #14 is the final position for the current prods, I would say you will lose some rocker ratio...& some valve lift. Rocker ball is further from the c/l of the rocker shaft; reduces ratio. Also, in a lower part of the arc that the ball rotates through & that also reduces [ cumulatively ] ratio. Longer prods reqd for correction.
 
Well I'm not sure about is if the push rods at least the ones on Summit are measured from the contact point of the inside of the cup to the end of the rod or from the end of the rod to the end of the rod??..
In my limited experience, extra length pushrods are marketed as plus.050, .100 or whatever. If the rods you have are stock (the stockers i saw in the summit catalog were 7.500. ) and you want them a quarter inch longer, ask for plus .250 . No complicated measurement techniques neccessary.
 
According to Summit, they measure overall length from ball to flat of the cup. BUT, a friend said they measure from ball to the measurement with the 5/16 ball in the cup /2 (lower part of inside of cup).He got the wrong ones and sent them back, and actually had them measure over the phone. You could try that to make sure
 
According to Summit, they measure overall length from ball to flat of the cup. BUT, a friend said they measure from ball to the measurement with the 5/16 ball in the cup /2 (lower part of inside of cup).He got the wrong ones and sent them back, and actually had them measure over the phone. You could try that to make sure
I know the true way to measure them is to put a little round bearing inside the cup and measure it with that then subtract the size of the bearing which is basically the bottom tip to the inside of the cup. That's the way Smith Brothers would have it. The thing about it right now as we know with supply as far as the summit goes that's the next largest looking one without going too far that they have in stock. And what I love about Summit is they send a return slip with them and they're very fast about returning them and don't ask questions. And they'll be here on Tuesday... That's why I was just saying I'll take a swing at it and if they don't work on Tuesday I'll send them back and immediately call Smith Brothers and just have them send me a measuring push rod...
 
Screw the adjuster on down until you can adjust the valves and see how many threads are showing on the pushrod side.
Are cat found some good push rods..
We haven't seen the cat this morning so I figured when I was in my shed looking around for an oil slinger as she always does goes in silently and gets closed into closets my garage and everywhere so I figured I better check there.. I don't see her but I have my flashlight so I look around just keeping my fingers crossed that I see the oil slinger and what do I see?... A box with some valve springs and a gaggle of ball and cup push rods... 16 of them!!... Needless to say I ran back inside and put it side by side with the ones that I have and sure enough they're about 3/8 of an inch longer... I already ordered the ones from Summit so I've got to call them in the morning and cancel that order... I'd like them to be a little bit longer but I think these will work?.. they are a little fatter as well, just a little bit..
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:thumbsup:...
Just found the cat...:rolleyes:
 
Are cat found some good push rods..
We haven't seen the cat this morning so I figured when I was in my shed looking around for an oil slinger as she always does goes in silently and gets closed into closets my garage and everywhere so I figured I better check there.. I don't see her but I have my flashlight so I look around just keeping my fingers crossed that I see the oil slinger and what do I see?... A box with some valve springs and a gaggle of ball and cut push rods... 16 of them!!... Headless to say I ran back inside and put it side by side with the ones that I have and sure enough they're about 3/8 of an inch longer... I already ordered the ones from Summit so I've got to call them in the morning and cancel that order... I'd like him to be a little bit longer but I think these will work?.. they are a little fatter as well, just a little bit..
View attachment 1715806711 View attachment 1715806712 :thumbsup:...
Completely acceptable.
 
I edited my post as we found the cat I figured you'd be more worried about that...
I was.....and was actually just coming back to say I hope it turned up. Glad it did.
 
If I'm reading this right you have a 112 lobe separation and Ken wants it 4 degrees advanced for a centerline of 108. If this is correct you were 1.5 degrees advanced and now you are 5.5 advanced. Depending on the cubes/compression is where I would install it at.
If you really want to know the .050 timing events to make it easy just use this calculator Camshaft Calculator & Valve Overlap Profiles | MGI SpeedWare and then when you are degreeing the cam you can take a second look by seeing if the intake opening and closing match up at .050.
 
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If I'm reading this right you have a 112 lobe separation and Ken wants it 4 degrees advanced for a centerline of 108. If this is correct you were about 2 degrees advanced and now you are 5.5 advanced. If this is a low compression and/or a 318 I would roll with the 5.5 and run it.
I wouldn't call it low compression it's probably about 9 and 1/2 or 9.3... 408 with forged dished Pistons.. going in my daily Power Wagon...
If you read through this straight up I had it at about 110.5 and then did four degrees advance and I'm at 106.5..
Again I'll talk to Ken in the morning and see where he wants it...
 
I wouldn't call it low compression it's probably about 9 and 1/2 or 9.3... 408 with forged dished Pistons.. going in my daily Power Wagon...
If you read through this straight up I had it at about 110.5 and then did four degrees advance and I'm at 106.5..
Again I'll talk to Ken in the morning and see where he wants it...
Yeah, I actually edited my post, you may want to check lol. If it was me and I was doing any real towing I would run it straight up. Timing chain stretch may let it retard a degree or two but with a combo like that I wouldnt even worry about it. Others answers/opinions may vary.
 
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