Cam for magnum
- Thread starter KotaRed
- Start date
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RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
A stock Magnum cam.
i mean, a stock replacement for a stock motor is you best bet.
if you're looking to warm it up a bit you'll want something mellow unless you have the other parts to compliment the build.
personally i'd call up ken at oregon cams and see what he's got. i'm sure that he's got a grind that's just a tick over stock and would work just dandy for what you're maybe trying to do.
if you're looking to warm it up a bit you'll want something mellow unless you have the other parts to compliment the build.
personally i'd call up ken at oregon cams and see what he's got. i'm sure that he's got a grind that's just a tick over stock and would work just dandy for what you're maybe trying to do.
autopar3000
Well-Known Member
The valve springs on Magnum engines were barely adequate for the stock cam. After 25+ years and a bunch of miles they are probably no longer adequate, so you'll need to upgrade the springs if you're going anything more than stock. I would recommend the Hughes kit part #1199. They sell a tool that can apparently allow you to do the springs with the heads still on the engine, but my heads were off when I did mine (PFM 66784)
As for the cam, I bought one from Hughes, but these days most guys are getting a regrind from Oregon Cam Grinding. You'll save a bunch of money going with a regrind.
As for the cam, I bought one from Hughes, but these days most guys are getting a regrind from Oregon Cam Grinding. You'll save a bunch of money going with a regrind.
@Professor Fate put a LA318 Roller Cam into his 5.9 magnum.
Better lift and duration than came on the stock magnum engines. Works with the magnum 1.6 rockers for a little more go...
☆☆☆☆☆
are you keeping it EFI or going carb?
360duster
Well-Known Member
Oregon Cam Grind # 1341 is a nice one. 218/224@.050", .482" Lift with 1.6rr, 110°LSA. Good Power / Torque.
Michael
Michael
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
Then the sky's the limit. Just remember, whatever camshaft you choose requires a matching set of valve springs.
I like these specs. No torque converter change needed. Increased torque and HP to 5500, no problem.
Pick up the matching springs, retainers and locks while adding new hardware along with it.
I wouldn’t go any larger than this.
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
I think that's the one I recommended for @TrailBeast. Maybe he'll chime in. I think he likes it pretty good.
HankRearden
Well-Known Member
I've pulled half a dozen magnums apart and I've never seen a bad cam lobe.
Bad cam bearings are common though.
Check this thing out thoroughly. The metal from the cam lobe went somewhere.
And what chewed it up? Bad roller on a lifter?
Bad cam bearings are common though.
Check this thing out thoroughly. The metal from the cam lobe went somewhere.
And what chewed it up? Bad roller on a lifter?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
I couldn't remember exactly. I know yours is the same one I used in the Ford 5.0 that I built a few years back. I ended up selling it to a friend's son and he put it in a little square body short bed Ranger. It has balls.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
On a “stock” 5.9, the largest cam you can install without giving up low end torque (or moving the torque up is probably a better way to say it), is a 212/218 @050. Anything larger than that starts to move the curve up. On a 5.2 I’d imagine that 050 number is even smaller.
HankRearden
Well-Known Member
here is the regrind I used from Oregon. Wow did it wake up a 5.9
#1429
210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep., 900/5200
#1429
210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep., 900/5200
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Started to effect it as low as the dyno could reasonably start the pull. ~2500
Looking at the graph right at the start it would appear that they cross over. But that is more a function of the dyno grabbing the engine. These two are essentially identical at ~2500 ish
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Once you get past a 206-ish duration @050, the power inches upwards on a dyno pull, if you can pull that low accurately.
As an example, the HFT I used at 216@050 was given a 1200 starting rpm via the cam card. In the low compression 318, I’d have to agree with the cam card very much. The 216 could be a 20* jump from the OEM cam. Having a 196 duration on a OEM cam installed in a 318 would not surprise me at all. Could be larger, IDK actually.
The cam card also said it would go to 5500. That was about dead on. Working on the heads and more compression can easily move this upwards, no problem.
As an example, the HFT I used at 216@050 was given a 1200 starting rpm via the cam card. In the low compression 318, I’d have to agree with the cam card very much. The 216 could be a 20* jump from the OEM cam. Having a 196 duration on a OEM cam installed in a 318 would not surprise me at all. Could be larger, IDK actually.
The cam card also said it would go to 5500. That was about dead on. Working on the heads and more compression can easily move this upwards, no problem.
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