Cam grinder suggestions

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gliderider06

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I am gathering parts to rebuild my factory roller cam LA318, for my 87 Ramcharger. I'm down to the cam and machine work. Seriously considering reusing the stock cam, but I've read that it's possible to get better milage out of a newer grind cam over the stock one.
I have looked at Oregon cams grinds on the web, but who else regrinds cams? I want to call and ask grinders their suggestions, but at the same time don't want to waste their time if it won't benefit me much for a new cam over stock. I just want a little more power out of the teen and milage if possible for the old Ramcharger.
Thanks, Paul
 
I am gathering parts to rebuild my factory roller cam LA318, for my 87 Ramcharger. I'm down to the cam and machine work. Seriously considering reusing the stock cam, but I've read that it's possible to get better milage out of a newer grind cam over the stock one.
I have looked at Oregon cams grinds on the web, but who else regrinds cams? I want to call and ask grinders their suggestions, but at the same time don't want to waste their time if it won't benefit me much for a new cam over stock. I just want a little more power out of the teen and milage if possible for the old Ramcharger.
Thanks, Paul
I had a cam ground at Crane cams a few years ago. They are in Daytona FL. should be able to find them on line.
 
I'd recommend Jones Cams. I have one coming in the mail. He was good to deal with. I can let you know in probably a month or so how it turned out (still building the engine).

Hydraulic Flat Tappet | Jones Cams

Be prepared to have lots of info about your engine combo and exactly what you want to achieve. The more info they have the better. Start with an email, he will get back to you.

Garth
 
Crower cams made a nice cam for my ex's 64 Dart with a slant...

I also recommend Oregon cams... I sent Ken a copy of a stock 340 4 speed cam to benchmark for another member (@dibbons) and Ken should be able to grind one to be just like the stock 68 340 4 speed cam with only .006" less intake lift...
 
Delaware? Call Racer Brown in Rosedale MD. You could drive down and have him regrind your stock cam. 410-866-7660. Watch out for the attack cat.
 
Jim at Racer Brown has done 3 or 4 cams for me. I will have him do a 3.9 roller cam in the near future.
 
I'd recommend Jones Cams. I have one coming in the mail. He was good to deal with. I can let you know in probably a month or so how it turned out (still building the engine).

Hydraulic Flat Tappet | Jones Cams

Be prepared to have lots of info about your engine combo and exactly what you want to achieve. The more info they have the better. Start with an email, he will get back to you.

Garth
You will be happy. Mike did my son's dirt modified cam...amazing performance. Even the previous car owner was impressed.

Jones will also do the cam in my dirt late model.
 
I have used Oregon Cam and they are good, and cheap prices compared to some.
I have used Bullet cam with a disaster, they sent it to me unfinished and I had to send it back
it was a new hemi core that I paid dearly for because it is different from a std BB cam,
I had to pay the shipping there and he paid the shipping back and it still had a burr on the edge of the lobe I had to grind off. Seriously pissed me off. Other people have had great work from them but not me. But hey he gave me a T-shirt!
 
I called oregon and Racer Brown.
I think I'm going to use Jim at Racer Brown. Awesome fella to talk with. We just need to figure out the LSA for the stock 318 roller cam. He said if it has a really wide seperation angle, that he wont really be able to do much with it.
Anyone know what the LSA is on an 88 TBI cam?
 
Yea, no use of shipping it all the way across the country, someone dropping it and it's done
 
I think 115 rings a bell
What that wide LSA does is get rid of overlap.But this steals time from the compression and power events to do so. Thus you end up with a smooth running engine that sucks gas, and needs extra compression to not fall flat on take-off.
Check these specs out for the same 318 cam, with only the LSA changed, and measured at split overlap;
I will use a 248/256 cams with LSAs of 115,110 and 107

First the 248/256/115
Intake: 11 before to 67 after,exhaust: 70 before to 11 after, overlap 22
This has compression of just 113, and extraction of 115

Next the 248/256/110
Intake: 16 before to 52 after, exhaust: 60 before to 16 after, overlap 32
This has compression of 128, and extraction of 120

Next, the 248/256/107
Intake: 19 before to 49 after, exhaust: 57 before to 19 after. overlap 38
This has compression of 131, and extraction of 123

How to apply them;
A) The 115
would seem to be a race cam requiring plenty of compression to make up for the lack of TIME to build it naturally. But the total lack of overlap precludes it's racing aspirations. Here's what it looks like installed
Static compression ratio of 9.2:1.
Effective stroke is 2.50 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.18:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 138.80 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 100 .................................... 100 ..

B) The 110
Static compression ratio of 9.2:1.
Effective stroke is 2.82 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.98:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 159.36 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 130 ..................................... 130 ..

C) The 107
Static compression ratio of 9.2:1.
Effective stroke is 2.87 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.10:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 162.48 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 134 ...................................... 134 ..

Where do you draw the line?
>Well I know that I can make pretty good fuel mileage with just 115* of extraction
so 123 might be more than a guy really needs.
>But you can clearly see the cylinder pressure progression, and 162 is about the max for pump gas and may need premium fuel when working hard. But that 134VP is hard to ignore.
>And I see nothing desirable in the 115 cam, unless your engine idles all day.

>So knowing this now, lets take the 110 and advance it 4 degrees to in at 106.
This will increase the compression event from 128 to 130, and decrease the extraction event from 120 to 118, and
D) Static compression ratio of 9.2:1.
Effective stroke is 2.86 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.07:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 161.70 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 133 ..................................... 133 ..
Now you have a decent engine that burns regular gas on the hiway(Dcr of 8.07), can be tuned to get great mpgs(118* extraction), makes mega-torque (133VP), and has great passing power(162psi).
What you don't have is power after 4800/5200ish. It will still rev there with the right parts, it's just not gonna be pulling much anymore.

Now take a look at combo A with a VP of 100, and compare that to combo D with 34% more.
Read about VP here; V/P Index Calculation
Recall that this is the same basic cam;a 248/256

Food for thought
 
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This might help:
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The narrow LSA makes a lot more sense now on what Jim was saying about not being able to do much with it if the cam has a wide LSA. I gave him the numbers stamped in tbe stock cam and he is going to call me back when he gets the info on it.
 
Lots more to cam design than lift, duration and LSA. Maybe you can get by with obsolete grinds on a daily driver but why would you?
 
Are u big on regrinding a cam . A more modern/specific grind for your goals/combo will be a little better than stock. Buy a new cam and save your old 1
 
Maybe it's because of my location, but I don't get why one would go through the hassle off regrinding an old stock camshaft.
Why not just get a new cam with the specs you think you want?
Is it simply to save some money?
 
If you don't have to buy a core it's a lot cheaper and the outcome is the same.
 
For the small amount of change in cam designs, for what I want to accomplish with my DD Ramcharger, the stock cam will be fine. Jim said i will pick up a lot more useful power and milage than stock. Made specifically for my goals with the truck and not a one size fits all application, that the factory makes.
 
Do you also plan on buying new longer pushrods to compensate for the cam's smaller base-circle after the grinding?
 
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