Cam Opinions

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I'd endorse that if he had headers. The split pattern of the factory 4 speed cam will work better with manifolds, IMO.
The use a split pattern solid. Anything to get rid of the hydraulic lol
 
The use a split pattern solid. Anything to get rid of the hydraulic lol

My 500 " Hardtop has hydraulics. Hate it, I got a solid set up to put in. The 340 is actually quiet, no lifter bleed after sitting so I may just let it be. Got to figure out the problem at hand 1st .
 
That's going to be a hard cam to improve on for a street performer, especially with 3.23 gears. Copied and pasted from elsewhere on here:
Here are the factory provided specifications on the "cam: 68 340 4 speed cam: 276°/284° duration . 444"/. 453" lift, Int open: 26° BTDC, Int close: 70° ABDC, Exh open: 78° BBDC, Exh close: 26° ATDC, Overlap: 52°"
Wallace racing shows this to be 116 degrees ICL and a 114 LSA, the .050 I don't know about yet.
 
if you want a 'lumpy' cam & performance [ post #1 ], then the current carb is probably going to choke the system.
Mother used a 800 cfm TQ on 340s & 850cfm carb on 360s on stock engines.
You are using high flowing Edel heads & a high flowing Edel dual plane intake. If you were using a single plane intake, then yes, a 600/650 carb would be ok. But with the DP intake, the 600 carb would be a cork in the system. I would use an Edel 750 AFB or the 800 AVS which has superior annular boosters for better throttle response. Use the brand H stuff for door stops...
 
If you're looking for that "chop" from the cam sometimes just changing mufflers will do it. You said you had the Walker quiet mufflers so a change with those may help.
 
If you did want to step up to a 750-800 cfm carburetor (800 AVS2 would be my choice for a cruiser) this is probably the largest cam you could use and still have good street manners. Notice how close it is to what it would actually be replacing? Being that it's a slightly improved version of the stock cam, you probably wouldn't see that much performance improvement unless your cam has enough wear to reduce lift by a pretty fair amount. Here are the timing events, thanks to the Wallace racing cam calculator. The 67-1/2 degree IVC would help to keep the cranking compression up, probably why it is rated for use with 3.2-3.9 gears.
Hydraulic Flat Tappet Street Force 3 Camshaft; 1964 - 2003 Chrysler 273, 340, 360 1600 to 5800 Howards Cams 712121-12 | Howards Cams
IVO is 31.5 ° BTDC ( - indicates ATDC)
IVC is 67.5 ° ABDC
EVO is 80.5 ° BBDC
EVC is 28.5 ° ATDC ( - indicates BTDC)
Overlap is 60 °
But I do like the thought of adding a set of quality (i.e. NOT CHEAP!!) 1.6:1 rockers with a B3Race engines correction kit for .496 intake/.501 exhaust lift with about 2 degrees more of .050 duration.
 
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I just read something from Rehrenberg about those cams. Everyone who's been into these motors has heard the legendary stories behind the cams performance. From the little blurb in the article not all '68 340's with 4 speeds received these cams. Supposedly only used in the earlier to mid-year '68 340 4 speeds. Is your car an earlier build?

Here's my Fender tag if someone wants to Decipher. I never have. Yes I know it's suposed to be yellow but I like the black some friends said I should of kept it yellow but it's my car.

Ragtop Fender tag.jpeg
 
There' a lean condition right there. That could be your stumble. I'd investigate more there.

Well it was a Balmy 25' day yesterday so I threw on the 650 Thunder with a leaner jet as it was running too rich. Still bad stumble. Then installed the Dizzy I overhauled and curved and it seems to be running sweet. I set my balancer at 15' and dropped in Dizzy. I haven't even thrown the timing light on her yet. I couldn't feel my fingers anymore so I stopped there for now. It's suppose to get in the 40's later this week so I check things over then. It's looking promising.
 
If you did want to step up to a 750-800 cfm carburetor (800 AVS2 would be my choice for a cruiser) this is probably the largest cam you could use and still have good street manners. Notice how close it is to what it would actually be replacing? Being that it's a slightly improved version of the stock cam, you probably wouldn't see that much performance improvement unless your cam has enough wear to reduce lift by a pretty fair amount. Here are the timing events, thanks to the Wallace racing cam calculator. The 67-1/2 degree IVC would help to keep the cranking compression up, probably why it is rated for use with 3.2-3.9 gears.
Hydraulic Flat Tappet Street Force 3 Camshaft; 1964 - 2003 Chrysler 273, 340, 360 1600 to 5800 Howards Cams 712121-12 | Howards Cams
IVO is 31.5 ° BTDC ( - indicates ATDC)
IVC is 67.5 ° ABDC
EVO is 80.5 ° BBDC
EVC is 28.5 ° ATDC ( - indicates BTDC)
Overlap is 60 °
But I do like the thought of adding a set of quality (i.e. NOT CHEAP!!) 1.6:1 rockers with a B3Race engines correction kit for .496 intake/.501 exhaust lift with about 2 degrees more of .050 duration.

I believe his improvement would be very noticeable, especially considering the difference in both the LSA and the duration @ .050. The LSA will help pump cylinder pressure up from the factory 114.

Even all that said, I still would NOT change it if I owned it and was happy with it.
 
Well it was a Balmy 25' day yesterday so I threw on the 650 Thunder with a leaner jet as it was running too rich. Still bad stumble. Then installed the Dizzy I overhauled and curved and it seems to be running sweet. I set my balancer at 15' and dropped in Dizzy. I haven't even thrown the timing light on her yet. I couldn't feel my fingers anymore so I stopped there for now. It's suppose to get in the 40's later this week so I check things over then. It's looking promising.

40s, yeah. Real heat wave. lol
 
Here's how it sounds and how engine is currently running with new changes. Sorry they are real short


Hopefully did this right. 1st time with You Tube lol
 
One of the videos is set private. Can you get one from the back of the car? It Sounds pretty good from under the hood though.
 
If you're looking for that "chop" from the cam sometimes just changing mufflers will do it. You said you had the Walker quiet mufflers so a change with those may help.
I disagreed because he has the stock cam in the engine now. That “Chop” is due to the cams timing events and the lobe ramp to a lesser extent. The narrower the centerline the nastier the chop in most cases.
 

I disagreed because he has the stock cam in the engine now. That “Chop” is due to the cams timing events and the lobe ramp to a lesser extent. The narrower the centerline the nastier the chop in most cases.
I speak from personal experience on my car. I also have the stock 340 cam in my car and after the quiet Accurate Exhaust mufflers were replaced with a set of Black Widow race mufflers there was a noticeable chop. No other changes made.
 
From a stock muffler to a race muffler....
Yeeeeeeaaaaaaaa-OK....

The factory cam is on a what now? (LSA)
Go swap in a nice bump stock on a 108 with a serious lobe and report back!

:lol:
 
From a stock muffler to a race muffler....
Yeeeeeeaaaaaaaa-OK....

The factory cam is on a what now? (LSA)
Go swap in a nice bump stock on a 108 with a serious lobe and report back!

:lol:
My cam is an Erson cam with the stock specs from 1970. That I know. My car now lopes pretty good with the Black Widow Race Venom mufflers and it didn’t before. That I know. I would have no reason to lie about this.
 
Stock specs moved timing events?

LMAO! Remembering a guy at my job insisting I had a “Hot Cam” in an a all stock ‘79 long block 360. (After market intake, carb, super comp headers @ 1-3/4 into 2-1/2 dual exhaust. Hooker Aero Chambers for mufflers.)

Oh yea! BIG. AM SOUND HERE!
I wish I did do a cam in this one. It was the only missing thing engine wise on this total streeter. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=q3OTEn5mrCs
 
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