Cam Question on new build 512

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gardnerjamesw

gardnerjamesw

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Where do I start! I've always been a small block guy and finally jumped on the big block band wagon. I'm currently building a 512 from 440source, Lightweight crank, trickflow heads trying to do it a little better than halfway right... now when it come to the cam I'm in left field... Flat Tappet? Roller? Thoughts? Mostly a drag car with a little street 90/10
 
gardnerjamesw said:
Where do I start! I've always been a small block guy and finally jumped on the big block band wagon. I'm currently building a 512 from 440source, Lightweight crank, trickflow heads trying to do it a little better than halfway right... now when it come to the cam I'm in left field... Flat Tappet? Roller? Thoughts? Mostly a drag car with a little street 90/10
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solid roller would be my vote.
 
gardnerjamesw said:
Where do I start! I've always been a small block guy and finally jumped on the big block band wagon. I'm currently building a 512 from 440source, Lightweight crank, trickflow heads trying to do it a little better than halfway right... now when it come to the cam I'm in left field... Flat Tappet? Roller? Thoughts? Mostly a drag car with a little street 90/10
Click to expand...
:popcorn:
 
What's the compression?

Check out the Crane 688651
 
what´s the expected power / ET / rpm band? With Heads in standard port configuration and 512 cui there´s no need for 7000 rpm...so maybe other cam choices than solid roller are good also....

Michael
 
That many cubes and standard port, I'd go with a big hydraulic roller, the upper RPM limits will be less of an issue. If you go max wedge, then solid roller. S/F....Ken M
 
EchoSixMike said:
That many cubes and standard port, I'd go with a big hydraulic roller, the upper RPM limits will be less of an issue. If you go max wedge, then solid roller. S/F....Ken M
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just because you have a solid roller doesn't mean you have to go to 7000 or more every time you start it. if you pick the right parts, it `ll do what u want it to.
 
There isn't enough information on build, budget and desired results to give a truly informed answer to your question. A solid roller will make the most power but you may only require a hydraulic flat tappet.
 
famous bob said:
just because you have a solid roller doesn't mean you have to go to 7000 or more every time you start it. if you pick the right parts, it `ll do what u want it to.
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Well yes, but unless you're turning it past the capability of a HR cam, or you just like setting lash, there's little point to a solid roller. S/F.....Ken M
 
If you are constantly setting the lash on a solid cam you just don't know what you are doing or you have a really cheap/crappy valve train assembly.
 
gardnerjamesw said:
Where do I start! I've always been a small block guy and finally jumped on the big block band wagon. I'm currently building a 512 from 440source, Lightweight crank, trickflow heads trying to do it a little better than halfway right... now when it come to the cam I'm in left field... Flat Tappet? Roller? Thoughts? Mostly a drag car with a little street 90/10
Click to expand...

Just copy my 470 build. I used a Comp solid roller that was 264/268 and it made 720 hp. If that is enough power for you then copy the build and you should be in the same place.
 
IQ52 said:
If you are constantly setting the lash on a solid cam you just don't know what you are doing or you have a really cheap/crappy valve train assembly.
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Even if lash is not changing, you still need to go through the motions of checking it. To see if a lifter's going away or whatever. That interval is going to depend on comfort level and how hard you're pushing things. S/F....Ken M
 
EchoSixMike said:
Even if lash is not changing, you still need to go through the motions of checking it. To see if a lifter's going away or whatever. That interval is going to depend on comfort level and how hard you're pushing things. S/F....Ken M
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By that same reasoning you should be checking your hydraulic lifter preload. You just never know if a hydraulic lifter is going away or whatever.
 
That's a little far fetched don't you think? I mean there's only hundreds of thousands/millions of hydraulic roller engines on the road that OEM's warrantee for 50/70/100k miles(with the abuse of non-mechanically competent drivers)..how many solid rollers?

It's not my engine, I just don't see a major advantage at the rpm range you're likely going to see with 512CI and standard port window. S/F....Ken M
 
Lordy, its a 90% drag car. I'm going to take a solid roller cam any day over a hydraulic roller in a 90% drag car. As to the standard port head.......the port cross sectional area of the Trick Flow, will in theory, choke at a about 5,800 rpm with a 512 engine. At that time it will probably only be making 650 horsepower, what a shame. But the Trick Flow 240 cross-sectional area could easily be opened up to choke the 512 at 6,500 rpm where it should be pushing 760 horsepower. Heck, look above at the AndyF dyno run with stock port 240 heads, the standard port 240 heads aren't going to hurt the 512! We're not talking about a standard port 906 iron head here!
 
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Thanks for all the feedback... my machinist was leaning towards flat tappet so looks like ill be pushing for the roller. Man I thought I was heading in a decent direction with the trickflows... as far as budget goes... as much as I can before my wife kills me (7K ish?)
 
There is nothing wrong with a flat tappet in your engine. We still don't know what your goals are other the 90/10 race/street. A street built 440 with a flat tappet can go 600hp, the roller can go more, or less, depending upon the camshaft. Why have a machinist that you don't trust to get you where you are going?
 
gardnerjamesw said:
Thanks for all the feedback... my machinist was leaning towards flat tappet so looks like ill be pushing for the roller. Man I thought I was heading in a decent direction with the trickflows... as far as budget goes... as much as I can before my wife kills me (7K ish?)
Click to expand...

It all boils down to how much power you want to make and how much money you have to spend. 600hp with the Trick Flow heads is as easy as falling off a log. 700 hp is going to take some work. I tested 3 cams, 4 intakes, 4 carbs, etc. before I found a combo that would consistently make more than 700 hp with my 470 engine. So that was $10K for the engine and then another $5K for parts and testing. You can save yourself some time and money by copying my end result but if you want to recreate the wheel that is fine too. The more the merrier.
 
AndyF said:
It all boils down to how much power you want to make and how much money you have to spend. 600hp with the Trick Flow heads is as easy as falling off a log. 700 hp is going to take some work. I tested 3 cams, 4 intakes, 4 carbs, etc. before I found a combo that would consistently make more than 700 hp with my 470 engine. So that was $10K for the engine and then another $5K for parts and testing. You can save yourself some time and money by copying my end result but if you want to recreate the wheel that is fine too. The more the merrier.
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no oil worries either. or trying to break in lifters.
 
AndyF said:
It all boils down to how much power you want to make and how much money you have to spend. 600hp with the Trick Flow heads is as easy as falling off a log. 700 hp is going to take some work. I tested 3 cams, 4 intakes, 4 carbs, etc. before I found a combo that would consistently make more than 700 hp with my 470 engine. So that was $10K for the engine and then another $5K for parts and testing. You can save yourself some time and money by copying my end result but if you want to recreate the wheel that is fine too. The more the merrier.
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Andy do you have a link to your build?
 
IQ52 said:
There is nothing wrong with a flat tappet in your engine. We still don't know what your goals are other the 90/10 race/street. A street built 440 with a flat tappet can go 600hp, the roller can go more, or less, depending upon the camshaft. Why have a machinist that you don't trust to get you where you are going?
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I guess my goal is a 10sec 1/4mile car... all steel, all glass, full interior. but still dependable, consistent, reliable. and noisy enough to annoy the neighbors!
My Machinist is new to me... its not that I don't trust him just asking opinions as our relationship is new.
 
gardnerjamesw said:
Andy do you have a link to your build?
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I wrote 5 magazine articles on that build. 3 in Mopar Action and 2 in Car Craft so it shouldn't be too hard to find. I think the May issue of Car Craft is still on the stands.
 
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