Cam suggestions for a 360

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I think it would be a great choice. I would not go any more mild. that is a well mannered street cam that will respond great to the 4 bbl and headers. If you would like, you can look at other brands and compare. If nothing else, it would be a learning experience. XE Comp cams are popular on this site. But there is lots of choices of brands
 
318willrun said:
I think it would be a great choice. I would not go any more mild. that is a well mannered street cam that will respond great to the 4 bbl and headers. If you would like, you can look at other brands and compare. If nothing else, it would be a learning experience. XE Comp cams are popular on this site. But there is lots of choices of brands
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K, I agree of all things I have the least experience with cams so im happy to get all of the info from everyone and learn more. Gotta swap the pan on the motor so I'll check bearings and ill pull the heads have the valves checked and have em cut .040 too! Then throw that cam in with a new chain and whatnot!
 
318willrun said:
Is it a 2bbl motor or a 4bbl motor? If it's a 4bbl motor, you might like the cam that's in it, as it's about like a 340 cam. If it's a 2bbl motor with a added 4bbl, then you could add a cam of about 220 duration at 50 and between a .450-470 lift. Will it be a headers, or manifolds? Yes, you can put it in front of the 7 1/4 rear for a bit. If it's not a posi and it spins the one legger, it won't stress the rear too bad. You will get by for a bit. And if you are using the factory 318 converter, it will stall up about 200-300 more rpm's with the 360 in front of it, but you will need a balanced flex plate.
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But if you one leg it more than a bit, you better have lots of good oil in it, or it will pile up the spiders and maybe spit out the crosspin. Sometimes the crosspin then goes through the cover and locks everything up solid.If it happens around a turn, however shallow or slow, you will be swapping ends.It happens with 8.25s also.
 
roccodart440 said:
step #1 right there.

An posi rear and a gear change will make more performance than the cam cange and set you up to enjoy a cam change more later.

Cams I like for that engine are comp cams 20-246-4, 20-233-4
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3.55/2.93 = plus 21% more torque multiplication. And a quicker spool up. And a faster run through the gears. This is also, in first gear at least, equivalent to 21% more cubic inches.
This is far and away, the most bang for your buck. And does not affect the fuel mileage to the same degree that a cam swap will.
And keep in mind that putting in a bigger cam on a stocker almost always trades away low-end torque for higher rpm power. And now you have to drive through that soft spot to get to where the power is. On a streeter, this is pretty much all the time.And if that soft engine is married to that 2.93, well, the only thing worse would be if it had 2.73s. And the soft bottom will put that TC back to what the teener was.
On the flip side, it might have more passing power......after about 65/70 mph,once it gets to where the torque is.
But go ahead, do it your way.Just don't let the roar of the 4bbl fool you.

Here's some food for thought;
In about 1969, Chrysler rated the lowly teener at 340 ftlbs at 2400rpm, while the 340 was rated the same 340 ftlbs, but at a significantly later 3200 rpm. Of course they could have fudged the numbers anyway they wanted to, but you get the idea; 22 extra cubes to the 340, but you had to rev it up to find the torque.Now 800rpm might not sound like much, but consider that the entire rpm band below 3200 on the teener was probably making more torque than the 340.And if you do the math on that, with 2.93s,that would be, in first gear,all the way up to about 36mph.
What speeds will you be driving?
In my younger years I installed a complete 2bbl teener top end and cam, into a junkyard 340 short-block;thus essentially making it a bigbore-teener. It was a pretty hot streeter.It wouldn't have ETd well, cuz it ran out of rpm early, even with a little extra valvespring on it, but it was a real fun tire-fryer.
 
AJ/FormS said:
3.55/2.93 = plus 21% more torque multiplication. And a quicker spool up. And a faster run through the gears. This is also, in first gear at least, equivalent to 21% more cubic inches.
This is far and away, the most bang for your buck. And does not affect the fuel mileage to the same degree that a cam swap will.
And keep in mind that putting in a bigger cam on a stocker almost always trades away low-end torque for higher rpm power. And now you have to drive through that soft spot to get to where the power is. On a streeter, this is pretty much all the time.And if that soft engine is married to that 2.93, well, the only thing worse would be if it had 2.73s. And the soft bottom will put that TC back to what the teener was.
On the flip side, it might have more passing power......after about 65/70 mph,once it gets to where the torque is.
But go ahead, do it your way.Just don't let the roar of the 4bbl fool you.

Here's some food for thought;
In about 1969, Chrysler rated the lowly teener at 340 ftlbs at 2400rpm, while the 340 was rated the same 340 ftlbs, but at a significantly later 3200 rpm. Of course they could have fudged the numbers anyway they wanted to, but you get the idea; 20 extra cubes to the 340, but you had to rev it up to find the torque.Now 800rpm might not sound like much, but consider that the entire rpm band below 3200 on the teener was probably making more torque than the 340.And if you do the math on that, with 2.93s,that would be, in first gear,all the way up to about 36mph.
What speeds will you be driving?
In my younger years I installed a complete 2bbl teener top end and cam, into a junkyard 340 short-block;thus essentially making it a bigbore-teener. It was a pretty hot streeter.It wouldn't have ETd well, cuz it ran out of rpm early, even with a little extra valvespring on it, but it was a real fun tire-fryer.
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Hmm you make a very good point and I will be going with a 8 3/4 or a Dana 60 whatever I can find for a good price. What kind of gear would be best for a mild street car and with a 3 speed auto?
 
Canyon said:
Well finally getting warm up here in Utah so hopefully I can find a good one in a yard. Thanks for the info guys
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It sure is! Greetings neighbor! Where in Utah are you located at? I know a place where there is plenty of rear ends. He's a little on the high side but he has the best selection in the Ogden area.

I love the Lunati Voodoo I installed last year. http://www.lunatipower.com/Category.aspx?id=61
I'm using p/n 20200711 (Hydraulic roller tappet) my compression ratio is about 9.7.
Flat tappets are available as well.

Turn up the volume:
[ame]https://youtu.be/3mqkaCGj1pA[/ame]
 
Tantibus-74 said:
It sure is! Greetings neighbor! Where in Utah are you located at? I know a place where there is plenty of rear ends. He's a little on the high side but he has the best selection in the Ogden area.

I love the Lunati Voodoo I installed last year. http://www.lunatipower.com/Category.aspx?id=61
I'm using p/n 20200711 (Hydraulic roller tappet) my compression ratio is about 9.7.

Turn up the volume:
https://youtu.be/3mqkaCGj1pA
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I'm up in logan, how about yourself? What yard? Is it the one on 17th?
 
He asked about cams, so I answered the question he asked according to the info he provided. But if we are going to talk gears (and the op asked in post 31), the OP will have to determine what he likes. I don't like reving going down the road. I hate turning 2600 rpm's trying to do 60 mph. Gets me tense, I feel like I'm in 2nd needing to shift to 3rd.

To the OP, you'll have to be the judge of what you like. This will be determined the use of the car. If it is mostly an intown car (50 mph or less), then you may love 3.55's or 3.91's. If you travel from city to city at 60-65 mph, you may not like them. Also, if your going to pull the heads and have them cut, I would shoot a glance at my home porting video in my thread "low budget 318 build". Up to you..... good luck
 
318willrun said:
He asked about cams, so I answered the question he asked according to the info he provided. But if we are going to talk gears (and the op asked in post 31), the OP will have to determine what he likes. I don't like reving going down the road. I hate turning 2600 rpm's trying to do 60 mph. Gets me tense, I feel like I'm in 2nd needing to shift to 3rd.

To the OP, you'll have to be the judge of what you like. This will be determined the use of the car. If it is mostly an intown car (50 mph or less), then you may love 3.55's or 3.91's. If you travel from city to city at 60-65 mph, you may not like them. Also, if your going to pull the heads and have them cut, I would shoot a glance at my home porting video in my thread "low budget 318 build". Up to you..... good luck
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Gunna go take a loot at some yards this weekend hopefully i can get lucky to find a 8 3/4 thats not too pricey. But i will definitely check out the vids if i pull the heads and can manage to port em a bit that would be awesome.
 
318willrun said:
He asked about cams, so I answered the question he asked according to the info he provided. But if we are going to talk gears (and the op asked in post 31), the OP will have to determine what he likes. I don't like reving going down the road. I hate turning 2600 rpm's trying to do 60 mph. Gets me tense, I feel like I'm in 2nd needing to shift to 3rd.

To the OP, you'll have to be the judge of what you like. This will be determined the use of the car. If it is mostly an intown car (50 mph or less), then you may love 3.55's or 3.91's. If you travel from city to city at 60-65 mph, you may not like them. Also, if your going to pull the heads and have them cut, I would shoot a glance at my home porting video in my thread "low budget 318 build". Up to you..... good luck
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Canyon: I'm the same way. With 3.55's you're going to turn around 3000 rpms on the freeway unless you get 28 inch tires even then you're still spoolin' high. (unless you get overdrive but that is an expensive endeavor)

I was running 3.21's until a carrier bolt snapped, I then switched to a suregrip 3.55's briefly, now RustyRatRod is rebuilding my Suregrip carrier.

With 27 inch tires and 3.55's I'm hitting about 3200-3300 rpm at 70 mph.
With 3.21's I was hitting about 2900 at 70 mph.

I do plan on doing an OD project... Eventually... Once I save up about 30 Benjamin's... Or if I get lucky.
 
I don't know how you guys do it. I use 4.56 gears and drive it down the freeway. I don't do 5 hour freeway drives but for a hour it does hurt them to run up there.

Guys back in the day were running 4.10, 4.30 and 4.56's all the time.

Different day, different people.

I just don't like it when people like ebooger say it can't be done. It has been done, it is being done and you can do a lot more with less if you hamstring yourself with tall gears.

Take the tach out.
 
All great info and it all ties together. Gears and cams, get either wrong and you'll be unhappy. My cam (came with the car) is way too big for the 3.23's and its a dog with no low end power. Got a deal on and threw some 3.91's in it and now its a totally different car, a tire melting machine. But.... sucks trying to cruise over 60 mph. Was dead set on changing the cam but now with the right gears there is no need, go back to the 3.23's (which I will) and I'll have to change the cam. Put a plan together and build to it. Know your gears, converter, compression and then cam it to that. Might end up smaller, might end up bigger, might not have to change it at all. Its easy to get ahead of yourself (me) then you end up working backwards try to get it all dialed in.
 
dgibby said:
All great info and it all ties together. Gears and cams, get either wrong and you'll be unhappy. My cam (came with the car) is way too big for the 3.23's and its a dog with no low end power. Got a deal on and threw some 3.91's in it and now its a totally different car, a tire melting machine. But.... sucks trying to cruise over 60 mph. Was dead set on changing the cam but now with the right gears there is no need, go back to the 3.23's (which I will) and I'll have to change the cam. Put a plan together and build to it. Know your gears, converter, compression and then cam it to that. Might end up smaller, might end up bigger, might not have to change it at all. Its easy to get ahead of yourself (me) then you end up working backwards try to get it all dialed in.
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Yeah that's what kinda sucks just wanted a little more power out of the stocker while I build my stroker. But either way I definitely need a stronger axle and more gear. So all comes together in the long run
 
1969reddart said:
I just put an Autozone(ATK) rebuilt 360 engine in my Dart. 8:1 compression. Replaced the cam with a MP 268/272 - 450/455 cam installed at 108. Installed comp 901-16 valve springs, retainers, keepers. 600 cfm carb with RPM airgap intake. Headers. 904 trans with stock 318 torque converter. 8 3/4 rear with 3.23 sure grip. Ran 14.1 in the 1/4 mile.(Running out of fuel top of 2nd gear and all through 3rd) I think once the fuel problem is fixed, it will run around a 13.7. Drivability with the stock torque converter is fine.
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Update: Car ran a 13.852 @ 96.60 MPH

DSC01980.JPG
 
dgibby said:
All great info and it all ties together. Gears and cams, get either wrong and you'll be unhappy. My cam (came with the car) is way too big for the 3.23's and its a dog with no low end power. Got a deal on and threw some 3.91's in it and now its a totally different car, a tire melting machine. But.... sucks trying to cruise over 60 mph. Was dead set on changing the cam but now with the right gears there is no need, go back to the 3.23's (which I will) and I'll have to change the cam. Put a plan together and build to it. Know your gears, converter, compression and then cam it to that. Might end up smaller, might end up bigger, might not have to change it at all. Its easy to get ahead of yourself (me) then you end up working backwards try to get it all dialed in.
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Well said.Too many street fellows get caught up in the horsepower wars,losing sight of the intended useage.With small blocks, there is not a lot of wiggle room,'till it all goes bad.
 
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