Cam Swap pointers

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Boltmopar

Boltmopar

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Hello all,
I want to swap the cam in my stock 318 in my 73Scamp, while I take it apart to add a edlebrock intake and 4barrel carb. I will also replace the timing chain, but want to keep the engine in the car, because if I pull it, I may as well wait till I finish my 360 for it, but no idea when that will be. I just want it to be a bit faster as I tool around in it. SO here are my questions.

1. Can the swap be done,while engine in car?

2. Is it necessary to swap the cam bearings? if so how hard is it to do?

3. Any special tools needed besides pulley puller?

4. Anything else I should replace while I'm in there such as water pump?

5. Any good links for swap or break in?
 
1. yes..but it is a tight fit...removed the grill and had to raise the motor to get cam out of 71 Duster
2. No..it is not as long as they are not damaged...the engine has to come out to change out cam bearing.
3. Basically NO..unless you want to degree in the cam....oh no...it will hit the fan...
4. Look for anything that is excessively worn...thrust plate..fuel pump eccentric..
5. You want the engine to fire with minimal cranking.. carb...fuel..timing need to be set to fire...have a water hose to cool off radiator while breaking in cam...you need to get timing close so it is not retarded to over heat engine.
 
Your answers below.

Boltmopar said:
Hello all,
I want to swap the cam in my stock 318 in my 73Scamp, while I take it apart to add a edlebrock intake and 4barrel carb. I will also replace the timing chain, but want to keep the engine in the car, because if I pull it, I may as well wait till I finish my 360 for it, but no idea when that will be. I just want it to be a bit faster as I tool around in it. SO here are my questions.

1. Can the swap be done,while engine in car?

Yes.

2. Is it necessary to swap the cam bearings? if so how hard is it to do?

Probably not. Especially if this is just until you get another engine ready. It is basically impossible to do in the car, with the engine assembled.

3. Any special tools needed besides pulley puller?

Degree wheel kit.

4. Anything else I should replace while I'm in there such as water pump?

Lifters and valve springs.

5. Any good links for swap or break in?
Click to expand...

Just keep engine RPM above 2500 and varrying between 2500 and 4K for the first 15 minutes of operation.
 
If you have the time, space, and energy to yank the motor, do yourself a favor and do so. I personally have never been a fan of a swap in the car. But opinions vary and that is mine....

Tools right off the top of my head include torque wrench, harmonic installation tool, harmonic puller, degree wheel with everything to do the job right, tooling to check P to V clearance, and something else is a really good and solid bolt that is really long to help slide the cam in and out without damaging the bearings. That is just to oddball stuff outside of decent handtools and a way to clean all surface areas.

As for the job, well if you can do math then you will be fine. If you overthink things you may get a little lightheaded (lol) and otherwise go for it...

Good luck,
JW
 
Thanks for the input guys, i may buy 360 magnum for 300 bucks, if this comes through, then ill ditch 318 upgrade for now.
 
And don't go big on duration for the cam on that stock 318; look for higher lift versus duration, like with the smallest 2 Lunati Voodoo cams so you can work with the stock torque converter. Keep the lift around .460 or less to avoid any issues with valve retainers hitting valve seals or guides. Consider put ting in some better valve springs IMHO; requires an head-installed spring compressor, and the procedure of putting air or rope in the cylinders to hold the valves closed while replacing the springs.

Read up on all the cautions on using oil with adequate ZDDP.
 
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