Camshaft card number question

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Syleng1

Syleng1

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So I just got in my new cam for the 340.

Lunati 10200703
Grind# VH44-VH45-110

So on the cam card it shows 106 centerline makes the cam 4 degrees advanced.
Question is does that mean if the cam is set at 0 the cam is naturally 4 degrees advanced or when I degree the cam I need to set it to 4 degrees advanced or 4 degrees retarded?

Not sure why I’m having a brain fart on this one.
Thanks!
Syleng1
 
My take is if you set it a 0 it will be at 110 and if you or they recommend it being 4 deg adv you need to set it to 106.I don't trust the timing chain sets either they seem off every time so best to centerline it yourself so you know
 
Align the dots on the sprockets.....check to see where the Center line is....adjust if necessary......

you may be dead on....you maybe have to advance or retard the cam to get to 106
 
Your not going to know where the cam is until you degree it in !! It may be at 106 straight up at 0.. You have to degree it in first before you do anything.
 
That cam is 4 degrees advanced ground in. If you use good parts and just line up the dots that is how it "should" be. Best thing is to degree it in. They are good grinds so I'm sure the cam will be correct but there other factors.
 
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Cool. Thanks all. I had planned on throwing on the degree wheel and checking it before running it. I just was not sure what that number actually was used for. It’s a common centerline.
 
Yeah most 110 cams are recommended to go in at 106; but that doesn't mean yours should!
The reason for advancing it is to trap more pressure, for a stronger bottom-end.
If you already have a stinking lot of bottom end, then there would be no reason to go hunting for more.
Or if you have a 2800 or better stall, again extra bottom end may not be a benefit.
Most split-pattern street cams are gonna split the Overlap cycle when installed at ~103/102.

If you anticipate cylinder pressure over 175 say, then there is no good reason to install it at 106. It might be more advantageous to install it straight up, or even a few degrees retarded. Each 4 degrees is said to move the power peak up 100rpm; so from 4 advanced to 4 retarded could move the peak 200rpm. That could be beneficial in certain circumstances...... cuz when you move it, it also increases the hp,lol.
Sometimes you gotta retard it to keep the engine out of detonation, cuz the pressure is just too high.
Sometimes you gotta advance the chit out of it, to trap some more pressure, cuz the cam is just too big for the combo.
If you get too far away from split overlap, in either direction, your Effective overlap suffers and you lose top-end power.

But you gotta start somewhere,
I run the next bigger cam, in a Hughes, at 2*retarded, for ~177psi,lol. I ran it at the recommended 4* advance, but the bottom-end was too ferocious,lol.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yeah most 110 cams are recommended to go in at 106; but that doesn't mean yours should! lol.
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yea! So 4 speed with a really low 1st gear set and 3.91 sg with 26” tall tires.
Once cam is in and broken in then the new Dougs headers are going in.

story is my 16 yo wants me to run the car at the 1/4 one more time before it goes in for a 3 year restoration at my shop. So I said let’s swap the cam (factory 68’ 4speed grind) and pop in something a bit more ruff and have fun at the track. Bolting on a set of slicks and enjoying the experience of the whole
“get ready for the track.” I’ve just not seen that centerline offset before like that but this is the first time I’ve run a Lunati cam.
 
Well with a starter gear of 3.09x3.91=11.96, I see no reason for running 4* advance.
If yur car goes 108 with 26s, that will be ~5500, which is well past the power peak of that factory 340 cam. Split overlap on that cam comes at around 108*, so I would be trying that, to straight up at 110; to get the Rs to perk up at 5500.
But if you had a C-body, lol, then ok I can see 106

But I'm just guessing you can hit 108@5500.
If you only hit 104, then your Rs are looking like 5300, so then the ICL could be 108 to 106
But if you only hit 100, then yur Rs are looking like 5100, and so 106 should be fine.
Tough call. A lot depends on your power to weight ratio.
 
Good cam ! I almost went with that one but went with its little brother. If you install it straight up you will have 4 degrees advance the advance is ground in you dont have to install it advance to get the 4 degrees. I would degree it tho.
 
Way to complicated OMG !! It’s not anywhere near this complicated! Degree the cam in! See where it is ! Go from there ! Don’t get me wrong Sir !! Everyone is just trying to help ! Keep it simple tho ! Don’t over thank the job !!
 
Rmoore said:
Way to complicated OMG !! It’s not anywhere near this complicated! Degree the cam in! See where it is ! Go from there ! Don’t get me wrong Sir !! Everyone is just trying to help ! Keep it simple tho ! Don’t over thank the job !!
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Its not over complicated if he dont understand. He asked a question a very good question actually. You cannot know something that you dont know without asking. I have asked alot of questions thru the years that I just couldn't grasp and that one person out there explained it to me and it just clicked and then I was like ohhh that's so simple lol
 
Syleng1 said:
So I just got in my new cam for the 340.

Lunati 10200703
Grind# VH44-VH45-110

So on the cam card it shows 106 centerline makes the cam 4 degrees advanced.
Question is does that mean if the cam is set at 0 the cam is naturally 4 degrees advanced or when I degree the cam I need to set it to 4 degrees advanced or 4 degrees retarded?

Not sure why I’m having a brain fart on this one.
Thanks!
Syleng1
Click to expand...

Sorta.....in a perfect world, yeah. The card means it has 4* ground in. So theoretically, if you sling it in dot to dot, it should be on 106. But you have the cam grinder, the cam and crank gears and the keyways in the crank and the cam that all have to coincide with that. That's why when you sling it in dot to dot, there's not a "real big" chance it's gonna be on 106. That's why you always check it with a degree wheel.
 
So I ended up with “tits up” or “dot to dot” as RRR said and back together. I wish I had degreed it for safety sake but could not get my degree wheel on the crank- engine in car. Ole Mr Gasket degree wheel from the 80’s. Anyhow after a very long recommended factory suggested break in procedure I changed the oil and took it for a ride. I think I opened the genie’s bottle. It wants to go fast. I mean really fast. At 60mph I cracked the secondaries on the Thermoquad and it broke loose and kicked sideways a bit on me on the highway. Sound is amazing thru the 2500-6500 range. Idle sounds like a larger motor for sure. Not a lot of lope, just a crisp clean muscle car sound. Sadly my rev limiter on my 6al MSD is set for 6,000rpm and it was still pulling when it started shutting down. My mistake. I will pop in a new pill tomorrow with the header install and set it for 7,000. Car idle to 2500 was not a typical bog but more like a slight turbo feeling delay then “BAM” it pulled like a husky in the snow. Big smile on my 16 yo son’s face for the test drive. The engine was built for business but had a small cam for drivable reasons. Back when the engine was built I was still stuck on Mopar performance cams only. New Lunati cam is defiantly allowing this engine to breath. Once the Dougs long tubes for in tomorrow it will need more fuel, more rpm and possibly swap out the LD340 for a single plane intake. Maybe I’ll put on the 1980’s Port O Sonic I just bought.
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Just curious what's the pan in the valley there for? That seems like that would starve the cam of oil?
 
Good stuff right there. The pan you ask? it was there to keep hot oil from hitting the bottom of the intake.
Kinda like a valley pan for the lifter valley. Also hides all the block mods I did 20 years or so ago. Only 5k on that motor. Lol!
 
Syleng1 said:
Good stuff right there. The pan you ask? it was there to keep hot oil from hitting the bottom of the intake.
Kinda like a valley pan for the lifter valley. Also hides all the block mods I did 20 years or so ago. Only 5k on that motor. Lol!
Click to expand...
So does the oil just run under it into the valley? There is a pan bolted onto the bottom of my intake I'm guessing it serves the same purpose I wondered why it was there lol
 
Yep, that is a good street grind for sure. I wouldn't part with that LD340 manifold. You might not like the lower end with a single plane. Have fun! That's what it's all about :)
 
do you have a a/f ratio gauge- wideband
keep checking your plugs
post up your compression
x2 0n the Ld 340
 
Wyrmrider said:
do you have a a/f ratio gauge- wideband
keep checking your plugs
post up your compression
x2 0n the Ld 340
Click to expand...
Only about 20 miles on plugs now with new cam. Installing headers now then seeing if exhaust hook up is possible today. Once all set I’ll run compression psi numbers. Plug colors , etc.
 
I need to run the number on the back of the cam. Already boxed it up and put away.
 
Syleng1 said:
I need to run the number on the back of the cam. Already boxed it up and put away.
Click to expand...
I know this is a old post, but would you be able to post up a picture of your cam card? Google is failing me. Im interested in this cam for my 408
 
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