Camshaft recommendations

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DRVDuster

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Hello guys, I´d like to see what are your suggestions for a new cam for my 318, it has 360 heads (I know wrong heads, but that is how I got the engine and I´m on a budget) will be milled .040" if possible .050", torker 340 (it also came with the engine), holley 600, headers.

My Duster is a street car, I just want to make a fun respectable drive
I was thinking about the 360 cam, is this a good choice?
 
Heads are fine the manifold needs to go, prolly the worst manifold to have on a sb mopar IMO, as far as cam some here will recommend the Summit ones, some recommend Comp, I have a Comp Thumper in mine, I really like it what do you have for rear gears? and torque convertor??
 
Duster- go to the Comp Cam website. They ask tire size, gearing, intended use, engine size, et cetera...all the important questions when spec'ing out a camshaft. The site will walk you through and then one of their tech guys e-mail you back with what cam grind would work best with your combination and expectations.
 
V-100 said:
Duster- go to the Comp Cam website. They ask tire size, gearing, intended use, engine size, et cetera...all the important questions when spec'ing out a camshaft. The site will walk you through and then one of their tech guys e-mail you back with what cam grind would work best with your combination and expectations.
Click to expand...
Great advice there, the camquest software (on comps website) is free too!!
 
I would ditch the Torker for an Edelbrock RPM.
I like the Comp XE cams.
My bet is they recommend the XE262 or XE268
 
Thanks for your replies.

I will go to the site.

About the intake, like I said, I´m on a budget, I don´t have a point for comparison, but the engine pulls hard and I´m running 3.07 gears with a manual transmission.
 
I just built up the same engine pretty much. Haven't got it in yet though. I'm doing a 318 with small valve 360 heads, torker 340 intake, headers, 4 speed and 3.23 gears. That intake will work fine, you might pick up some hp with a new one but run what you have and make your own choices. Intakes are easy enough to swap don't worry about it!

I've been told and read on here a 340 spec cam works well with this combo. The comp XE262 or XE268 would be great in this motor too. Just don't go really big with the cam, otherwise you'll end up with a turd.
 
Torker is almost only for racing. Want to have crap idlr, foul plugs, dog until 3500 rpm?
 
Low compression,singld plane intake combo.Keep overlap ,under 60.Run the absolute best ignition system you can.An MSD,or multi spark box will make it easy to drive.You will need to recurve the distributor.Start a 12 initial,shoot for 34 to 36 @3000 r.p.m.
 
Engine idles right, no foul plugs, pulls fine.

My dist is at 14 initial.

Anyway this is going out of topic, I asked for cam suggestions.

With the heads milled (0.040-0.050), what would be better, 360 cam or should I go with the Comp cams some members mentioned in this thread?
 
DRV, the problem in getting the asked info for a cam is the miss match in parts. The overall combo has everyone jumping. The rear end ratio is the main killer next to compression ratio being low.

The "360" cam is VERY mild and should be left alone. In the future, a intake manifold change is needed with any cam suggested to otherwise fit. It would be cheaper than a rear gear change. Also, more initial may be good on the timing.

So, without further to do;

While the Comp cam XE262
( http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=626&sb=0 )
is what I'd recommend from Comp cams, I myself would rather go with the Crane cam of similar spec. It has a centerline of 112 vs. the 110. It idles a little more on the mello side but retains a little bit more on compression.

http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=24030

Your current build is a near identical build of my very first build. The 360 heads were a "J" head with 2.02/1.60 valves and the carb was a Holey 600 double pump.The car was a '73 Cuda 4spd. manual trans. Everything else is the same. Been there done that and the package moved the car into the 14's at the track. Launch, traction and effectively rowing through the gears is key along with the shift point. In which you'll have to play with to find the best time for the car. The Duster is a good bit lighter than my Cuda, being a "E" body car.

Do not go large on the rear tire diameter. It'll kill everything you want to retain. The stock tire diameter is what you want and not much more if you can avoid it. Width of the tire can grow wider, not a problem.
 
rumblefish360 said:
DRV, the problem in getting the asked info for a cam is the miss match in parts. The overall combo has everyone jumping. The rear end ratio is the main killer next to compression ratio being low.

The "360" cam is VERY mild and should be left alone. In the future, a intake manifold change is needed with any cam suggested to otherwise fit. It would be cheaper than a rear gear change. Also, more initial may be good on the timing.

So, without further to do;

While the Comp cam XE262
( http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=626&sb=0 )
is what I'd recommend from Comp cams, I myself would rather go with the Crane cam of similar spec. It has a centerline of 112 vs. the 110. It idles a little more on the mello side but retains a little bit more on compression.

http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=24030

Your current build is a near identical build of my very first build. The 360 heads were a "J" head with 2.02/1.60 valves and the carb was a Holey 600 double pump.The car was a '73 Cuda 4spd. manual trans. Everything else is the same. Been there done that and the package moved the car into the 14's at the track. Launch, traction and effectively rowing through the gears is key along with the shift point. In which you'll have to play with to find the best time for the car. The Duster is a good bit lighter than my Cuda, being a "E" body car.

Do not go large on the rear tire diameter. It'll kill everything you want to retain. The stock tire diameter is what you want and not much more if you can avoid it. Width of the tire can grow wider, not a problem.
Click to expand...



Thanks a lot Rob

I can get a 360 intake from the guy who sold me the engine, I´ve heard is a good one. I know that even with the heads milled I will be around 8.5 comp maybe a little more. Also I can change the gears to 3.73, tire diameter is 25.7

Do you think that combo will work better?
 
Yes. For sure! The stock cast iron intake is actually a good intake. Just heavy as heck. A move away from the iron intake in a good direction would be the RPM as suggested above. NOT the Performer, but the RPM. Either style. Mexico is warm enuff practically year round to run a air gap model without concern.

Your going to have to mic. the engine up, how far the pistons are down in the cylinder, actual bore size and cc the heads and know the gasket dimensions for a complete and accurate measurement for the compression ratio.

This way, you'll know exactly how far to mill the heads for a decent ratio. More the merry until you can not seal the valve covers or intake fitments become an issue. You really do not have to go to far. a true 9.0-1 is great. It'll probably be a 1.2 point gain from where you are now. But then again, that depends on the year of the engine and actual ratio.

A move to the 3.73's is great for off the line and such, but of course, limits the top end a good bit by compare to the 3.23's. You can also step up in tire diameter though a new speedometer gear will probably be needed to correct the reading.

Hey wait. Is that a stock tire size?
 
I put the common "RV/Torker" hydraulic cam in my 273. It has 0.422"/0.444" valve lift, which is more than the HiPo engine. I also used Rhoads leak-down lifters for better mileage. No intake/exhaust overlap, so no rough idle or lopey sound. Many people desire a poor idle and put in a Thumper cam for that race car sound. I think it makes the engine sound worn and unecessarily pollutes. Depends on what you want.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Yes. For sure! The stock cast iron intake is actually a good intake. Just heavy as heck. A move away from the iron intake in a good direction would be the RPM as suggested above. NOT the Performer, but the RPM. Either style. Mexico is warm enuff practically year round to run a air gap model without concern.

Your going to have to mic. the engine up, how far the pistons are down in the cylinder, actual bore size and cc the heads and know the gasket dimensions for a complete and accurate measurement for the compression ratio.

This way, you'll know exactly how far to mill the heads for a decent ratio. More the merry until you can not seal the valve covers or intake fitments become an issue. You really do not have to go to far. a true 9.0-1 is great. It'll probably be a 1.2 point gain from where you are now. But then again, that depends on the year of the engine and actual ratio.

A move to the 3.73's is great for off the line and such, but of course, limits the top end a good bit by compare to the 3.23's. You can also step up in tire diameter though a new speedometer gear will probably be needed to correct the reading.

Hey wait. Is that a stock tire size?
Click to expand...

No, I´m running 17 wheels. Diameter is a little bigger.

I haven´t removed the heads yet to take measurements of chambers cc´s and the pistons down in the cylinder, once I get there I will try to get the whole volume to the 60 cc´s.

Regarding the gears, I like the 3.07, I love cruising in that car, besides, is a street car.
 
Keep the gears then. The cam will do fine as long as you really do not go bigger than the suggested cam I gave in terms of duration @ .050. After that size, you may find a "Lacking of torque" on the low end. Sluggish off the line in a bad way. Even though a 4spd can handle a larger cam than a auto, I wouldn't go farther. It'll be a good cruise machine.

OH, 3.07 and not 3.23, gotcha! :) Yea that 3.07 to a 3.73 jump is a good jump in ratio.

Bill mentioned the Rhodes lifters. I have used them before. They work well. A little noisy. The "Tick" sound never bothered me though. They will mello out a engine idle or a cams thump a good bit.
 
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