can anyone post a picture of where they welded there bung at in there exhaust system

[fuzzman]

Can anyone post a picture of where they welded the bung in there exhaust system with headers for a air fuel guage? Thanks In advance
Pat Faley
67 Barracuda
East Peoria IL

 

[67Dart273]

I put mine as close to the front of the collector as possible, just above the horizontal. By the way if you have to buy bungs, you can get nuts from a fastener's supply considerably cheaper. I've forgotten the thread pitch, but they are 18mm same as "Ford" 18mm spark plugs.

 

[TrailBeast]

I have looked into this quite a bit, and just picked up a new A/F kit from Innovate.
They warn to not put it in a place that gets over 900 degrees, so I wondered where in the system to put it.
On my own car the collectors turned a dark blue from the heat, so I looked up what temp dark blue means.
About 550 pipes turn blue, so mine is going in the collector about 18 inches behind the flanges.
I'm pretty sure you already saw where they say to put the sensor at anywhere between 9 and 3 oclock in the pipe so condensation doesn't get on the sensor.

 

[jimjimjimmy]

can you use 1 sensor in a v8 engine or does 2 come in a kit . if two is used are they hooked to 1 gauge or is 2 needed ?

 

[TrailBeast]

can you use 1 sensor in a v8 engine or does 2 come in a kit . if two is used are they hooked to 1 gauge or is 2 needed ?

The kits I have seen come with one sensor, and the connections are there for only one.
Most people put a bung in each side of a dual exhaust, then swap the sensor from side to side for checking left and right banks using a plug to cap the bung not in use.

If you have an X pipe setup, then some put the sensor at the X to get an overall reading of the engine, but I personally don't think it is that important as jets and needle are changed in sets so one bank of the motor would have to be pretty close to the other as far as mixture goes.
(except at idle) and this would be when you would switch sides with it, or in the case of checking for possible intake leaks.

The wideband sensors are internally heated, so placing the sensor in a high heat area of the exhaust is not needed.
The instructions do say that you need to make sure the sensor is far enough upstream in the system as to not get fresh air from the end of the pipes and recommend at least 20 inches of pipe after the sensor.

They also say DO NOT run the car without the sensor connected to the guage and the guage powered, because it will ruin the sensor if it's internal heater element is not on.
You can however run the entire A/F system without the sensor in the exhaust stream, and with mine this is how you calibrate it (with the powered sensor in fresh air)
Then you install the sensor into the exhaust and get your readings on the guage.

They also recommend recalibrating with the above method once or twice a year due to sensor wear from usage.

 

[BillGrissom]

TrailBeast was thorough. I'll just add a few things:

You can get kits to bolt a wideband O2 sensor up the tail-pipe. It seems mostly tuner kids do that with small cars because they can't weld and/or their cars are short, so running the cable isnt as bad. Makes it easy to pull it out for calibration in air.

In my old Mopars, I put 2 O2 bungs in the single exhaust. I will put a regular on/off O2 sensor in one so I can check the accuracy of the wideband sensor. I never trust an electronic reading without a "2 point cal" - one in air, one at stoichiometric.

 

[jimjimjimmy]

The kits I have seen come with one sensor, and the connections are there for only one.
Most people put a bung in each side of a dual exhaust, then swap the sensor from side to side for checking left and right banks using a plug to cap the bung not in use.

If you have an X pipe setup, then some put the sensor at the X to get an overall reading of the engine, but I personally don't think it is that important as jets and needle are changed in sets so one bank of the motor would have to be pretty close to the other as far as mixture goes.
(except at idle) and this would be when you would switch sides with it, or in the case of checking for possible intake leaks.

The wideband sensors are internally heated, so placing the sensor in a high heat area of the exhaust is not needed.
The instructions do say that you need to make sure the sensor is far enough upstream in the system as to not get fresh air from the end of the pipes and recommend at least 20 inches of pipe after the sensor.

They also say DO NOT run the car without the sensor connected to the guage and the guage powered, because it will ruin the sensor if it's internal heater element is not on.
You can however run the entire A/F system without the sensor in the exhaust stream, and with mine this is how you calibrate it (with the powered sensor in fresh air)
Then you install the sensor into the exhaust and get your readings on the guage.

They also recommend recalibrating with the above method once or twice a year due to sensor wear from usage.

thanks this makes things a little more understandable .

TrailBeast was thorough. I'll just add a few things:

You can get kits to bolt a wideband O2 sensor up the tail-pipe. It seems mostly tuner kids do that with small cars because they can't weld and/or their cars are short, so running the cable isnt as bad. Makes it easy to pull it out for calibration in air.

In my old Mopars, I put 2 O2 bungs in the single exhaust. I will put a regular on/off O2 sensor in one so I can check the accuracy of the wideband sensor. I never trust an electronic reading without a "2 point cal" - one in air, one at stoichiometric.

thanks bill

 

[leblanc]

why bother, it`s just one more thing that can go wrong and ruin your otherwise beautiful cruise.

 

[1967 'cuda]

We bought the FAST efi 2.0 kit that comes with an O2 sensor. One of the deciding factors on where we mounted it was the length of wiring in the kit. Although we don't currently have headers, we measured back to make sure the location would be compatible later. Our sensor is located in front of the transmission cross member. In hindsight we would have been better if we had put it on the passenger side of the car because that's where our main efi wiring harness is located. Later, when our headers are installed our O2 sensor will be about 8" after our header collector. If we chose to install in the collector itself, we would either have an extra bung or have to section out that portion of exhaust. As you can see, our sensor location is still almost a foot in front of our H-pipe.

 

[67Dart273]

I don't have this in front of me, look up and read the Innovate destructions. I believe the concern with headers is that it might be too cool if too far back

So far as 1 vs 2, I think some of you overthink this. Most these engines share left / right banks with 180* or 360* intakes, either one. So the O2 should be able to average both banks. They are not isolated. Unless you have a problem with just one or two cylinders on the same bank, I don't see how a problem would arise. You can easily tune with the O2, and read the plugs to see if they are uniform. That would quickly identify one problem cylinder.

You could also install dual bungs, plug one, and switch sides with one O2 if it's a concern.