Can't get nut off LCA pivot shaft w/ poly bushing (shaft spins)

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racerdude5

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I'm having trouble taking out my LCA pivot shaft because the non-threaded side is just spinning inside my polyurethane LCA bushing when I turn the nut. Does anyone know the best solution to this problem? Thanks
 
Do you have the car on the ground which will put more pressure on the joint and hopefully it won't spin.

Also use an impact like RRR suggested...
 

Remove the LCA by sliding it off the pin. Clamp the pin at the shoulder with vise grips.

What Jim just told you, or put a vice grip plyer, or channel lock plyer, up between the crossmember and the LCA, and clamp down on the shaft.

That's what i do at the wrecking yards, when I'm pulling LCA's off a donor car, and the bushings are totally deteriorated, and just spin, what your going thru with poly's.
 
I've tried with an air ratched on and off the ground, no luck. My impact will not fit in the slot. I'd like to avoid taking the control arm off the shaft since I have just recently installed the new bushings and shells and would like to avoid that pain in the ***. What do you guys thing of somehow notching the exposed threads of the shaft in a way that I can get one wrench on the but and one open ended wrench on the shaft to hold it in place? And I'll see if I can fit a vise-grip between the LCA and the k-member in the morning.
 
I could stop by sears and get a swiveling impact extension, what do you guys think of that?
 
I have always had great luck with the impact. HIGH air pressure, bumping the impact to shock the fastener loose. It usually works good. But as you say, you have to make room for it.
 
Alright well does anyone know if sears is open tomorrow? I'll get a swivelling impact socket and see what I can do.
 
Alright well does anyone know if sears is open tomorrow? I'll get a swivelling impact socket and see what I can do.


Or go to a Lowe's, Home Depot, etc...

they may be open for a short time today...

If not tomorrow...


Or do you have any phone numbers of tool guys (Snap-on, Mac, Matco, etc.) where you could stop by their place and pick one up.

I chase the tool trucks sometimes to get their numbers for emergency situations. Then I can call them and meet them at their place to buy tools. If you are paying in cash, they don't mind opening up the truck to make an easy sale...
 
Just be aware that a swiveling impact adapter dissipates part of the impact force. I end up removing any swivel and extension if at all possible in really tough impact situations. But you'll still be way ahead of anything else you've tried. I'm a bit skeptical on being able to get much counter force on a flat ground on the threads; it's just not very large. Hpe you get it!
 
Your making a mountain out of a mole hill here.

What's your reason in wanting to remove the nut off the shaft of the LCA in the first place, anyway? :dontknow:

It's already tightened down and installed.

Your working with a poly bushing in the LCA to start with, and the way that you tighten one down is you put the shaft into the crossmember first, then tighten down the nut, then put the LCA onto the shaft, then put your torshion bar back in.

So if you want to remove the shaft and nut for whatever reason, just pry back on the LCA, between the crossmember, and pop out the torsion bar.

Just stick a vice grip, or channel lock pyler up in there, as previously advised, and or also, follow Jim Lusk's advice.

If any two people on this board know anything about the R&R of the suspension parts, on these cars it's him and me.
He makes videos off all this stuff, and I'm now a retired, mechanic, having done all this for my livelyhood.

You know that proverb, Kiss? (keep it simple, stupid)
This isn't rocket science, and your not taking apart the space shuttle.
Don't put more into this, as it's not necessary at all.

Good luck, have fun, your not gonna scrape any knuckles.
hemi71x
Jim V.
 
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