Can't get turn signal bulbs in or out?

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wh23g3g

wh23g3g

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I guess this is common being a 1965 Valiant. My original turn signals work but I need to change one bulb but I can't get in a new bulb. I got some spare signals on eBay and the bulbs are frozen too in the sockets. I can obviously get the old bulbs out but the spring inside the socket must be frozen keeping the new bulb to be pushed down and locked in. I tried pouring some rust remover in the sockets and letting it soak but they didn't free it up. What else can I try?
 
On the Wifes 72 I shot the sockets full of WD40 and just worked them gently up and down with a pocket screwdriver until they freed up.
Then rinsed with WD and blew them out with compressed air.

Not a bad Idea to use something around the bulbs to protect your fingers in case the bulb breaks.
 
Try a 50/50 mix of ATF & Acetone mixed in a jar. Stick you bulb & socket in it and let it set for a while. (overnight)
 
The bulb is glass, break it. The bulb base is super thin metal. Slide 1 jaw of needle nose plier behind and other jaw inside. Squeeze and twist plier to completely destroy the bulb base.
Get'er done. Service techs who soak silly chit for a day or 2 go hungry.
 
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Is there a spring under the contacts? I know I took my original apart a long time ago and then it never worked again. I can't remember if it actually had a spring under the two contact wires or not. On these used ones I got on ebay I cut back some of the rubber insulation covering the wires going in to stick something in to try and free up the spring. And the little that I can see, I don't see a spring. The portion where you insert the bulbs in is like brand new because I soaked it in rust remover. But the contact button doesn't push in if it's suppose to. Or maybe I'm using the wrong bulb? I'm trying an 1157 but the original is a 1034. Do I need to get a 1034 for it to go it easier? I've soaked many nights with PB blaster and rustoleum rust remover but it doesn't push in and out at all. So that's why I'm wondering is there even a spring there? I didn't want to cut it all apart and ruin it trying to figure out if there's a spring there.
 
50/50 ATF/Acetone works better than PB Blaster, WD40 and anything on the market. These are only penetrators though. To eat rust away from things stuck together with corrosion I use citric acid.
 
Springs in the sockets: Yes. If the contacts have burned or corroded and/or the contact holder disc is rotten and/or the spring tension is no longer enough to hold the bulb securely (all of these are likely), repair the socket. Info here.
 
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Looks I will have to get new sockets for mine. I got one new bulb in and the spring somewhat "springing". The contacts don't appear to be burned. Of course I got the one fixed that is already working on my 65 Valiant. The other spare I have that I now broke is the one I really needed. It's just totally frozen. I will have to replace the socket in it. One thing I did not notice in the link is something I need to know to help me on this 65 Valiant but also on my 73 Charger. When you install that new socket what do you use to neatly bend the exterior tab of the bulb end socket so the socket stays locked in place. My 73 Charger has the same type of sockets in the tail lights that I had to painstakingly bend up to swap out the housings and now they move around because they're not perfectly seated in the housing anymore.
 
Those ones aren't actually designed to be replaceable. They're integral to the lamp housing, not a replaceable part. You kind of have to do the best you can…which makes it extra-difficult to make sure you get the focal length correct.
 
#6 X2- who wants to eat Ramen noodles every night
 
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I took the one signal assembly apart tonight that had the broken wires on it. I now see the spring. I had a universal 1157 socket that was similar to this one but it didn't have the notch on the side of the contact button to keep it locked in place and it had the springs under each contact. So I've got the whole assembly and the original contact spring soaking in rust-oleum rust remover overnight. Then I will smooth the edge of the original contact button down and get the rust and dirt off it. Then I will take the two new contact wires from my new universal socket and splice them back into the assembled original assembly. I don't see why it shouldn't work then as long as the original spring is good again. So I didn't have to try to remove the non-removable socket in the original housing. That's what I wanted to avoid. It also seems an 1157 will not fit it has to be 1034 bulb.
 
I don't know this particular lamp fixture intimately. If it is quite similar to most from same era, the bub socket is press crimped to a pot metal housing. These can be separated and reassembled if you want/need to bad enough. I did this many years ago at 67 B'cuda front park/turn fixture. What was a continuous full circle lip inside was reduced to 3 shorter equal segments. I applied silicone sealant where to 2 parts join and added a single very small screw through to ensure chassis ground path. Screw head didn't interfere with bulb globe... done.
 
wh23g3g said:
It also seems an 1157 will not fit it has to be 1034 bulb.
Click to expand...

Why bother asking questions if you're just going to ignore the answer? There is no (as in ZERO) physical-fit difference between 1034 and 1157. They are built to the same physical specifications. If you find an 1157 that won't fit in a socket that originally held a 1034, either the socket or the 1157 bulb is faulty (or you've got the bulb 180° off of its correct position; these dual-filament bulbs only fit the socket one way round).
 
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Just went thru this on my 65 valiant. In picture NAPA replacement setup is on left, original version on right. NAPA setup will work but bulb seemed loosy goosy so went with original set up with new spring and contacts. My spring on passenger side was completely disentegrated from corrosion and until I troubleshot prob. would not accept a new bulb at all frustrating me at first. Simple repair. Good to go now.

image.jpeg
 
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