cant smoke the skins...problem??

-
Please,
Go back and reread my post #5. The orange box needs the Super coil and the proper ballast resistor, the Chrome box needs it's special ballast resistor and the right coil for it, and it's the same for the Gold box, there are also wireing differences and there is more than RPM's as differences to the boxes. But this is my opinion and have done it so take it for what it's worth.

BJR Racing
 
torquehouse,
Please keep in mind that the duration for the hyd. and the mech. are different so what you may have thought the duration is for the hyd. Is not the same for the mech. cam as the hyd. cams can run more duration than the mech. counterparts and have different results so don't get mislead by #s. The Mech. cams can have more duration and do more than the hyd. cams but, put more on the hyd cams and your there, so it's not apples to apples and oranges to oranges.

BJR Racing
 
BJR Racing said:
Please,
Go back and reread my post #5. The orange box needs the Super coil and the proper ballast resistor, the Chrome box needs it's special ballast resistor and the right coil for it, and it's the same for the Gold box, there are also wireing differences and there is more than RPM's as differences to the boxes. But this is my opinion and have done it so take it for what it's worth.

BJR Racing
Click to expand...

I agree that the coil, ecu and ballast need to be matched to get the most performance from the system. However, the ecu itself is just an electronic switch that goes between the coil and ground replacing points.

Compared to points any of the ecus have the potential to provided a hotter spark simply because the capacitor (condensor in auto speak) that bleeds off some current as the points open is not there. The orange, chrome and gold boxes besides having components that switch faster extending the rpm range they also can carry a higher current flow allowing for hotter coils. When everything is matched there is more potential output from the ignition system so as the system rolls off at higher rpm's it still has enough potential to create a spark that will reliabily light off the mixture. The chrome and gold boxes are not recomended for street use because at low rpm's the system is allowing more current flow that can over heat the coil at low speeds.
 
RPM , it sounds like a timing issue. Have you tried advancing your initial timing and checking your vacuum advance as well?
 
if you still want to run that cam
it might be possible to use
variable-duration lifters.
rhoads makes them, but i have
never tried them.
maybe someone else on this board has experince
using them.
just a thought that might spark debate.
 
2 things.
First, send your distributor to FBO for recurve and buy his kit. Its by far the best deal and all plug and play.

I wonder what you are actually stalling at? I had the same problem years ago. A car with a 4.10, 2500 stall. ran 9.75 in the 1/8. years later, same engine with a 4 speed and 3.54 gear ran 8.60!
If your converter is not flashing you are screwed.
Go to 4secondsflat.com look at that ignition kit deal.
 
Torquehouse you nailed it. That cam has a great deal of duration at .050 which drops the cylinder pressure. I have to also wonder if lifter preload has ever been checked. If the block was decked or the heads cut this will be an issue.Any racer will tell you to tighten up the lash on a solid cam for a marginal track, this would be the same as having too much lifter preload on the hydraulic. I have experience with that same cam. I swapped it out for a crower stage 3. HUGE DIFFERENCE!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top