Car will not move in gear

-
82CRUISER

82CRUISER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
237
Reaction score
3
Location
NC
72 duster with 904/360 magnum..been working fine except it would shift from first to second at like 5mph. Drove it around and all good. Had some radiator problems so it has been down for a bit. Started it up the other day and put it in reverse and it took a second but backed up at idle then stopped. revved the engine up and nothing. Put it in drive and it clunked into gear and moved an inch. Reved it up and no movement. Checked the fluid and it was at a good level but smelled like burnt clutch although still red. Adjusted low/rev band and tried moving the car again and nothing. Been able to drive it around and now it doesn't move. Any ideas.
 
82CRUISER said:
72 duster with 904/360 magnum..been working fine except it would shift from first to second at like 5mph. Drove it around and all good. Had some radiator problems so it has been down for a bit. Started it up the other day and put it in reverse and it took a second but backed up at idle then stopped. revved the engine up and nothing. Put it in drive and it clunked into gear and moved an inch. Reved it up and no movement. Checked the fluid and it was at a good level but smelled like burnt clutch although still red. Adjusted low/rev band and tried moving the car again and nothing. Been able to drive it around and now it doesn't move. Any ideas.
Click to expand...

Is your throttle valve linkage hooked up? If not, the low pressure probably cooked your clutch(es). The low shift point is also a result of it.
 
Well I guess it's rebuild time. Any pointers for hooking up the linkage with a air gap manifold. It's a performance products unit. Hopefully the geometry wasn't the death of it.
 
Lokar makes a cable kit that seems to work well for many.

Otherwise you can add a spacer under the bellcrank behind the carb and then weld a bolt (with the proper thread) to the tip of the rod to extend it back into a range that's adjustable. But honestly, so long as the link from the carb to the bellcrank behind the carb (assuming 3 pcs linkage) is setup proper (you can extend this rod instead, if needed), it should function just fine. The 1:1 ratio will be maintained, regardless of the angle of the pushrod - the relation of the stud on the carb to the throttle shaft will have more impact. The easiest way is probably to use a nut/bolt in the slot of the TV rod, but be REALLY damn sure that there's nothing which can bind the linkage and keep you stuck with the throttle applied (that's what the slot is there for, to allow the throttle to close even if the trans linkage sticks).

Be sure to adjust it so that the TV linkage is 'bottomed out' at WOT. If shifts are too late/harsh, then you can back it down from there until it's agreeable, but it should still be toward the end of it's travel at WOT and start moving immediately with the throttle as well.
 
Phreakish said:
Lokar makes a cable kit that seems to work well for many.

Otherwise you can add a spacer under the bellcrank behind the carb and then weld a bolt (with the proper thread) to the tip of the rod to extend it back into a range that's adjustable. But honestly, so long as the link from the carb to the bellcrank behind the carb (assuming 3 pcs linkage) is setup proper (you can extend this rod instead, if needed), it should function just fine. The 1:1 ratio will be maintained, regardless of the angle of the pushrod - the relation of the stud on the carb to the throttle shaft will have more impact. The easiest way is probably to use a nut/bolt in the slot of the TV rod, but be REALLY damn sure that there's nothing which can bind the linkage and keep you stuck with the throttle applied (that's what the slot is there for, to allow the throttle to close even if the trans linkage sticks).

Be sure to adjust it so that the TV linkage is 'bottomed out' at WOT. If shifts are too late/harsh, then you can back it down from there until it's agreeable, but it should still be toward the end of it's travel at WOT and start moving immediately with the throttle as well.
Click to expand...

or you could put a manual valve body in it .
 
And makesure you have the correct 4bbl cable and that its anchored correctly in theclamp,and that the angle to the throttle lever is relatively shallow, and that it doesnt ever, ever,ever, stick WOT.
 
Phreakish said:
Lokar makes a cable kit that seems to work well for many.

Otherwise you can add a spacer under the bellcrank behind the carb and then weld a bolt (with the proper thread) to the tip of the rod to extend it back into a range that's adjustable. But honestly, so long as the link from the carb to the bellcrank behind the carb (assuming 3 pcs linkage) is setup proper (you can extend this rod instead, if needed), it should function just fine. The 1:1 ratio will be maintained, regardless of the angle of the pushrod - the relation of the stud on the carb to the throttle shaft will have more impact. The easiest way is probably to use a nut/bolt in the slot of the TV rod, but be REALLY damn sure that there's nothing which can bind the linkage and keep you stuck with the throttle applied (that's what the slot is there for, to allow the throttle to close even if the trans linkage sticks).

Be sure to adjust it so that the TV linkage is 'bottomed out' at WOT. If shifts are too late/harsh, then you can back it down from there until it's agreeable, but it should still be toward the end of it's travel at WOT and start moving immediately with the throttle as well.
Click to expand...


Now when you say bottomed out you mean at the tran end bellcrank?
 
82CRUISER said:
Now when you say bottomed out you mean at the tran end bellcrank?
Click to expand...

I mean that the TV lever on the trans can no longer move farther toward the rear of the car. You may have to disconnect the lower bellcrank to check range of motion and make sure nothing is binding and it's definitely reaching full travel. Then adjust so that at WOT your linkage pushes that lever to that end travel.

If the shifting is too late/harsh or won't reach 3rd gear, then you can slowly back off the adjustment until it works properly. It's best to start at the end though, and work back.
 
Ok getting ready to rebuild and the trans vin says it's a 70 late model 904 std duty 3410779 318. Can't find a rebuild kit for a 318 904 anywhere
 
82CRUISER said:
Well I guess it's rebuild time. Any pointers for hooking up the linkage with a air gap manifold. It's a performance products unit. Hopefully the geometry wasn't the death of it.
Click to expand...

Shifting at 5 mph was a warning that you didn't hear is all. :D

And the geometry probably WAS to blame if the TP linkage was hooked up at all.
Like mentioned up there ^ Lokar is the way to go when modding the carbs, intakes and linkages on these cars.
Just do yourself a favor and lube the Lokar cables before you even bother installing them, as a lot of people have binding issues inside the cables right out of the box.

Dry graphite is perfect for that.
 
Like mentioned above the vin on the trans says it's a std duty 318 trans. Only info I found that 904 trans did not come in v8 cars.
 
82CRUISER said:
Like mentioned above the vin on the trans says it's a std duty 318 trans. Only info I found that 904 trans did not come in v8 cars.
Click to expand...

904's were extremely common with smallblocks, but I don't think they were ever put behind bigblocks.
Some 340 cars even came with 904's.
 
"Some 340 cars even came with 904's"

that is not true.......All 340 cars from the factory had 727's
 
Reason why I am asking is because autozone and other such companies don't list a 904 with any v8 only v6 and smaller
 
Pull trans and pan
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    47.4 KB · Views: 312
Remove valve body
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    42 KB · Views: 275
Remove front pump bolts and look for two hole that have two sets of threads. Thread two long 9/16 bolts in to press out the pump and remove pump and f ont drum
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    44.6 KB · Views: 277
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top